Explore Terra Nova National Park

I’ve finally decided to start writing again about the island of Newfoundland (Canada), and more specifically about the Terra Nova National Park. We’ve been back since the end of July 2022, and I have to admit that I’ve had a bit of trouble getting started. The reason for this? We’ve got family stuff to deal with as soon as we get back. Then the kids go back to school, and other projects on the blog take up a lot of our time. In a nutshell, I’ve been pretty busy. I’m going to use a short stay in mainland France to finally re-motivate myself to share my experiences with you.

In my first article, I told you all you needed to know about leaving for the island of Newfoundland. We spent a month on this beautiful Canadian island. We really enjoyed it. It’s going to be hard for me to write about all the places we visited. Even though it might not seem like it, Newfoundland is a big island and even in our one month holiday we obviously couldn’t see and visit everything there. Based on our online research and feedback, we chose certain areas.

Today, I’ve decided to share our three full days at one of Newfoundland’s two national parks, Terra Nova National Park. I’ll save the details about Gros Morne National Park (the other park) for a separate article.

In this piece, I’ll provide you with all the essential information about Terra Nova National Park. Despite some unfavorable weather that prevented us from completing all the hikes we had planned, I found this natural park to be a peaceful and serene destination due to the limited crowds and its stunning landscapes. Terra Nova National Park, established in 1957, spans approximately 400 square kilometers and is situated in the northeastern part of Newfoundland, overlooking Bonavista Bay. I plan to write a comprehensive article about the must-see attractions on the Bonavista Peninsula soon.

Terra Nova Park is renowned for its distinctive scenery, primarily featuring vast forests of spruce, meadows, numerous ponds, rivers, and peat bogs. While we didn’t have the opportunity to spot any wildlife, the park is home to various species, including lynx, black bears, ospreys, moose, and Newfoundland martens.

Let me share all the details with you!

Situated approximately 300 km west of St. John’s, the provincial capital, Terra Nova National Park is easily accessible. The primary reasons for visiting are to rejuvenate, explore the stunning scenery, and, above all, embark on hiking adventures. Rest assured, this isn’t like the challenging treks you might encounter in much steeper parts of the world. Here, the park features a relatively flat terrain, more accurately described as hilly, with the highest point barely reaching 200 meters. In simpler terms, Mélanie didn’t grumble too much about walking because it’s mostly on level ground. Although, I must admit, with time and all the hiking we’ve done here in Guadeloupe, she’s grown to appreciate walking!

Let’s take a look at the various walks we took in the park and the must-see spots.

We began with a leisurely visit to a viewpoint. Our journey commenced with this small location, which can hardly be called a hike. Situated in the northern part of the national park, it’s a straightforward viewpoint, easily accessible directly from the main road that traverses the park, the Trans-Canada Highway. You can’t miss it – there’s a sign along the roadside.

Not anything too extraordinary, but this place is definitely worth a visit. Drive up the small road and park in the designated parking area. From here, a brief walk of less than 100 meters will lead you to the local viewpoint. You’ll spot the famous red chairs that are scattered throughout this area, along with a stunning panoramic view of the surrounding scenery. It’s exceptionally picturesque. You don’t need to spend an extended amount of time here, but the place is peaceful, pleasant, and perfect for unwinding. When we visited, we had the place to ourselves.

If you continue heading south, towards Charlottetown, you’ll notice a sign on your left that points to the renowned Ochre Hill. It’s easily accessible from the main road, and you’ll discover two distinct points of interest in this vicinity.

Follow the road all the way to the cul-de-sac parking area to reach the first point of interest. The road leading to it, surrounded by spruce trees, is truly enchanting. From the top, you can either proceed directly to the impressive watchtower right in front of you or, as we did, choose to ascend the wooden staircase on your left. Take note of the informational panel about the national park, which provides important statistics: a total area of 400 square kilometers, 134 ponds, 169 bird species, 523 plant species, and 70% of the park covered by black spruce (fir).

A quick five-minute climb up the stairs gives you a breathtaking 180-degree view of the surrounding area. At the top, forest, ponds and rivers as far as the eye can see. All this in fine weather and without a single tourist – this is the place to be.

Should you choose to ascend further up the wooden steps, you’ll discover two iconic chairs thoughtfully positioned for a moment of relaxation. Take a few minutes to savor the serenity of this place. As you continue along the path, it leads you to a towering watchtower. We managed to climb nearly to the very top with the children (the final section is restricted). Even for someone unafraid of heights like me, the tower’s height is truly awe-inspiring, offering an astonishing 360° perspective of the surrounding landscape. At the tower’s base, informative panels provide insights, including the fact that this park is a remnant of an ancient volcano shaped by glaciers. Additionally, you have the opportunity to ascend to several well-equipped platforms that provide further detailed explanations.

Allow 1 hour for the whole walk. We were with the kids (obviously) so we took it easy. We weren’t in a hurry as we’ve been here a whole month. Once the walk is over, drive down a little further. We parked in the small car park on the right, which is the starting point for a very nice hike in the area. We get dressed with the kids, although I have to admit that the weather is fine and it’s really not cold during the day with this beautiful sunshine.

The sign at the entrance says it all: 5 km, 2 hours walk and a moderate route. On the whole, I agree! In my opinion, this walk is well worth the effort, especially as we were practically alone, meeting only one or two tourists along the way.

We started this beautiful trek on a path that was mainly in the classic pine forest of the region, but alternated with wetter sections in the woods. There are lots of colourful mosses and lichens which make the walk interesting. There are also a number of carnivorous plants in the area. At the end of the walk we pass two ponds, which are dark in colour but stand out very well in the landscape. In my opinion, the whole thing is very good for photography.

Once we have passed the ponds, we head back into the forest and end the walk with a gentle final climb up into a drier, less sheltered area. It’s clearly not cold, as the sun is still out. The view from the top of the small hill is lovely. You can even see the watchtower you climbed earlier in the distance.

The return trip can be done either the same way or a different loop. It’s just as enjoyable. In my opinion, it was a lot of fun for everyone. It’s not what you would call a difficult walk, given the small difference in altitude, and the length of the walk is perfect for walking with children: not too long and not too short. We highly recommend it.

Here’s another really nice trek that I had the chance to do in my day hike. This time it was just Louis, as Mélanie stayed at the camp with Téo for a nap. The start of the Malady Head Trail was very convenient for us. It was directly from the campground of the same name where we stayed for the 3 days we were there. We drove there, but you can easily walk (just north of loop B) if you stay at this campsite. It is located at the northernmost point of Terra Nova National Park.

This walk, especially the viewpoint over the Northeast Arm just north of the campsite, is supposed to be really nice. Well, I might as well say it up front, I knew full well that we weren’t going to end up seeing anything. We set off with Louis to get some fresh air, but the weather that day was terrible: rain, fog that blocked the view at 50 metres, and the temperature was not warm at all. But I wanted to go outside, so Louis joined me!

The sign at the entrance tells us that it’s a 3.5km round trip. It takes 1.5 hours. We’ll probably be there for 2 hours between Louis, who sometimes doesn’t walk so fast, and me, who stops to take photos. Equipped with a good coat and hat, we started walking. The trail winds through the pine forest at the beginning. It’s very damp. But it’s really nice to walk in this otherworldly environment. The path is full of flowers (it’s summer here) and there’s a succession of passages through the forest and some very wet areas full of water. In many places, major adaptations had to be made in the form of a series of raised planks to cross water. There are also a lot of mushrooms (bad ones, I admit…). But it’s always fun to take pictures of them. It was a real discovery in the backcountry. An anecdote: about ten years ago, Mélanie and I went to the Åland Islands between Norway and Finland. While cycling near the forest, I saw some boletus mushrooms growing there from the road. We picked up half a bag. We ate them that evening at the campsite… I remember the tourists with us looking at us and saying: “You’re sure you’ve got it right? Yes, yes, don’t be afraid, I’m in the know, haha!

The route itself isn’t particularly difficult. It’s generally flat. Some of the sections, with the fog all around us, are really beautiful. I love the atmosphere of the place, a forest atmosphere at the end of the world. We are walking with Louis, who is enjoying it as much as I am, I think. The path is very well maintained. You can’t really get lost unless you go through the woods…

The end of the walk is a bit more difficult, with a series of slightly steeper climbs, but nothing too serious. We arrived at the wooden platform that was supposed to offer the magnificent view below, as I had planned before we set off. It was so foggy you couldn’t see 20 metres when you arrived! But it didn’t matter. We took a short break and waited to see if it would dissipate. But it didn’t… After a good two hours of walking, we came back quietly, still in that beautiful, humid atmosphere. Personally, it was a lot of fun.

In the southern part of Terra Nova Park, Mélanie and I spotted the famous Sandy Pond. We’d seen pictures of it and it was a beautiful, colourful pond. The next morning, the weather was fine. We decided to take the whole family to discover this beautiful pond. Once again, just opposite the Ochre Hill Trail walk mentioned above, access is from the main road.

We park our car in the large car park. It’s early. We’re practically the first to arrive. It’s great. We set off on the walk through the forest which, according to the signs, should take 1h30 at normal speed. With the kids and the photos (as usual) it’ll take much longer. The area is much less humid than what Louis and I did yesterday. It was very different. We’re still in the woods, but in a much more open area. Unfortunately, the mosquitoes are still there, as they have been on many of the hikes we’ve done so far (apparently a characteristic of summer in this part of Canada, which we can confirm!) The trail, always well maintained, winds through this beautiful forest from the start of the hike. You’ll see lots of flowers and mushrooms.

This is when the landscape changes completely. The landscape changes into a series of peatbogs, those well-known bogs full of water, moss, lichen and small trees. The forest no longer exists here. We follow several sections of this type. We often cross wooden bridges over the water. There are several information boards along the way. They explain the importance of the peat bogs, their composition and much more about the local flora and fauna. The views all around us are magnificent.

And then, in my opinion, comes the highlight of the show. Turning around the lake (the path goes around the pond), we come to a large wooden bridge overlooking a dream landscape: an ochre-coloured river, beautiful vegetation and flowers all around. We spent a quarter of an hour (despite the nagging of the children) photographing this beautiful spot.

We continue on the way back. It takes us back into the forest and offers several equally beautiful views of the pond. It’s a really nice place to be. This side of the walk offers much better views than the outward walk. You come back along the small sandy beaches at the end of the walk. You’ll even find those two famous red chairs you see all over the trails. They’re perfect for sitting by the pond and letting your mind wander.

Unfortunately, if you want to put it that way, the end of the walk is a little less interesting in the sense that you return to the starting point. This is near a very beautiful beach, but at this time of day it is full of people. It seems to have become a meeting place for all the local Canadians who’ve come to enjoy themselves. Everyone is in the water, children and adults alike… aren’t these Canadians crazy? The water is obviously not warm for us, who are used to the tropics. But for them it’s summer!

We had a lovely meal with the family on the shores of the lake. This is the place to be.

This was the last hike I was able to do as I couldn’t find any more motivated volunteers to join me. The Louil Hill Trail is at the northern end of Terra Nova National Park, just a stone’s throw from the Malady Head campsite where we were staying. I set off again in fine weather, in the heat and, of course, with my friends the mosquitoes, as usual.

On the agenda was a short walk of 3.7km. It was listed as 1.5 hours. The path winds gently through the forest for most of the way. The atmosphere is as beautiful as ever, but it is much more airy and less humid than what we’ve experienced so far. It’s pleasant, if you can ignore the mosquitoes. They’re trying to eat me alive. I don’t know if it’s the heat, the time of year or something else. But it’s definitely not pleasant.

I reached the top after an hour’s walk and a final climb up the stairs. There’s a beautiful 360° view of the surrounding area. Lakes and forests as far as the eye can see. Don’t hesitate to take a walk in the grass/bushes at the top. There are other interesting vantage points. Note that you can even see the arrival of another short walk. It starts more or less opposite the car park for this walk. It’s a half hour walk to the Mill Cove Lookout Trail. But I wasn’t really motivated to go there. The weather is starting to cloud over and I think the viewpoints are pretty much the same. In the end it was a nice walk, but there were too many mosquitoes for my liking.

I’m going to finish with a few words about the Visitor Centre and walking around it. We didn’t have time to go walking any further.

The Visitor Centre is a really nice place. Especially if you’re on holiday with your family. It’s located at the end of Newman Sound, in the middle of Terra Nova National Park. Easy to get to from the main road, it’s well worth a visit, especially on a bad weather day. The reception is really good. You can also buy your National Park passes here, which we did.

We came back late in the afternoon, on a day when it was raining heavily. It’s a nice place to explore with the kids when the weather doesn’t allow you to go hiking unless you’re as wet as soup. There’s a small trail inside. There’s lots of information about the local flora and fauna. It’s a lot of fun and will definitely attract the youngest visitors. There’s even a children’s playroom with drawings. Great.

Outside, there are a number of nice little spots by the lake for relaxation and food. As far as we’re concerned, the weather was terrible when we were there. So we won’t be hanging around here too much. We did, however, take the opportunity to walk around the centre for an hour. There is a fun trail with questions hanging from the trees. There are other, much longer walks you can do from the Visitor Centre. These include the Goowiddy Trail (8km loop – 3/4hrs), the Heritage Trail (500m walk, 15m) or the Coastal Trail (9.5km – 3/4hrs).

I think the walks we were able to do are more or less the most interesting ones. However, you should know that there are other possible walks in the park, such as

• Dunphy’s Pond Trail: a 10km walk, too long for us with kids, but apparently leads to a beautiful pond,
• Southwest Brook: a 4km walk that is more accessible, but we didn’t have time to take it into consideration,
• Platters Beach: a coastal walk from Charlottetown, which we’d also heard good things about.

For your stay in Terra Nova National Park, here’s everything you need to know.

There is an entrance fee to visit Terra Nova National Park, as with all national parks in Canada. You can buy the pass at three different places: at the visitor centre or at one of the two official campgrounds of the national park: Malady Head and Newman Sound.

We personally bought our pass directly from the campsite on arrival, paying at the same time for the pitch we’d reserved for our three nights there.

When we visited the prices were as follows:

• 6.25 per adult
• 5.25 for seniors (over 17)
• Free for children under 17.

There are also rates for the whole year or if you want to stay there for 8 days, for example. The best way to be sure of prices is to have a look at the details on this page.

It’s also possible to buy a “Discovery Pass” which allows you to explore (for the same price) 80 destinations in the country, mainly national parks, national marine reserves and national historic sites. Full details here.

The card costs just $72.25 per adult. There are even family rates for 7 people at $145.25, which is really not expensive. I think this is an essential purchase if you plan to visit several national parks during your trip to Canada, or if you are visiting Canada for several months. Prices and conditions can be found here.

As always, it depends. It depends on where you’re coming from. In our case, we live in Guadeloupe. There are direct flights from Pointe-à-Pitre to Montreal for not too much money. We then took a flight from Montreal to St. John’s for our trip.

You have no choice but to hire a car once you’ve arrived on the island of Newfoundland. We personally found what we were looking for (as is so often the case) on the car hire comparison site DiscoverCars.

The National Park is located in the east of Newfoundland. It is about 200 km west of the capital and 60 km south-east of Gander, the nearest major city, which also has an airport. You can fly from St. John’s to Gander, although it’s not the most financially attractive option.

Otherwise, the easiest way to get around is to drive the main road that crosses the island, the Trans-Canada Highway. It will take you about two to two and a half hours to get there. So that’s fine.

If you want to know more, we’ve just published an article. It explains how to get to the island of Newfoundland.

As I said at the beginning: This is a park where people come mainly to hike. But a lot of Canadians also come here for canoeing/kayaking and fishing from what we’ve seen and heard.

For canoeing, there are several well known sites in the park, both fresh water (ponds) and sea. These include Sandy Point, the Newman Sound campsite, the Visitor Centre, the Southwest Arm and the Malady Head campsite. Depending on your level, you can paddle for anywhere from 1 to 8-10 hours, for example, from Sandy Pond to Dunphy’s Pond.

Things are pretty simple here. There are basically two options for overnight accommodation in Terra Nova Park. It has two formal camping sites: Newman Sound (in the middle of the park) and Malady Head (at the northern end of the park). We personally chose the latter. We’ve had better feedback on it. It’s smaller and more “friendly”. Malady Head is said to have fewer mosquitoes. It is also closer to the towns for shopping.

We have always been advised to book our pitches well in advance. This is especially true between June and August, the park’s busiest season. We booked several weeks in advance and followed the advice. However, we had to cancel our bookings and found places at the last minute due to a number of last-minute changes of plans. Got lucky or not? I don’t know. But it’s still possible. To book a pitch in the park: Click here.

As far as staying in the National Park is concerned, it’s important to know that even though we’re talking about two campsites, there are several types of accommodation to choose from:

• Tent pitch: this is what we had and it is a choice on the basis of the size of your tent and the size of your car,
• Camping pitch: it depends on the size,
• oTENTik tent: we tried it out for one night and it’s very nice, a sort of large canvas tent with real beds, heating and a barbecue,
• L’Oasis (formerly “Goutte d’Ô”): a typical accommodation that looks like a drop of water.

Of course, prices vary according to your choice at the time of booking.

A few practical tips at the end of this article. You don’t have to sleep in the park – it’s not that big. It’s perfectly possible to sleep in the towns on the park’s borders, such as Trayton, Glovertown or Alexander Bay (to the north). Or Charlottetown, which is inside the park’s geographical boundary but outside the park (in reality).

The best (i.e. hottest) months are July and August, based on temperature alone. However, as is often the case, these are also the busiest months for tourists and therefore the most difficult to find accommodation in campsites. But it’s not impossible. And I don’t think it’s the most visited park in Canada! So I think it’s manageable. If you’re flexible. It might be a good idea to switch between May-June and September-October. That way the crowds are smaller and the temperatures are still decent. It’s really going to start to curdle before or after that!

I’ll leave you with that. Hopefully this article on Terra Nova National Park has been an inspiration for you to have a look around! It’s a beautiful park, and it’s fun to visit. It’s a must if you’re planning a road trip to Newfoundland for a few weeks. However, I don’t think the views are as spectacular as those found in the Canadian Rockies, especially if you go to Banff or Jasper National Parks.

I will see you soon for a further article on the island. I will see you soon for a further article on the island. In the meantime, have a look at our guide to Fogo’s must-sees.

Written by Sylvain PONS

I had the opportunity to explore the beauty of this country I love on several different occasions and in different places (Canadian Rockies, the Island of Newfoundland for 1 month, Yukon and Québec)!

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