A trip to the Bain des amours

As I write this, it’s been just over a year since we arrived in Guadeloupe. A year in which we’ve enjoyed Basse-Terre and its lush natural surroundings. As time passes, we realize that we’ve come to the right place, the place where we want to settle. Today, in this short article, I’ve decided to tell you about a picturesque place that locals know and tourists visit: the Bain des amours in Gourbeyre, a famous natural hot spring! (that you could translate literally by the “Love Pool”).

As I said, it’s a place we’ve been to a hundred times (as it’s not far from where we live) and we had to wait for a nice meeting with a couple with triplets (respect to their courage!) to discover this beautiful and picturesque place lost in the middle of the Guadeloupe rainforest. We’re in the commune of Gourbeyre, not far from the famous Bassin Bleu.

So today, for a change, I’m not going to go on for pages as I usually do. Instead, I’m going to take you on a little stroll around this beautiful Bassin des Amours, which I think is among the places to see if you’re on holiday in Guadeloupe, during a day-trip.

As usual, I’ve summarized everything you need to know about discovering these breathtaking places during your excursions. You’ll also find some additional information at the end of the article.

Formerly known as ‘Bain Capès’, this is a place that has been open air for a few years now, right in the heart of the forest. I’ll explain how to get there at the end of the article. But you’re on the departmental road n°7, which leads to the market town of Trois-Rivières. There is a small car park at the side of the road and parking is very easy. You can even park on the road going up on the left if you need to.

This is the second time that we’ve been there without the children, so that we can take some photos of the place. It’s much easier and allows us to take our time and concentrate on the photos so that we can show you the most beautiful places in Guadeloupe. I would advise you to come early to avoid the crowds and tourists. We did this by arriving at 8am (I think it’s even better to arrive earlier).

It is about a hundred meters down the dirt track from the car park. The recent rains have really damaged the place and you really have to be careful where you walk on the path. It’s quite slippery and you can easily sprain an ankle (says the guy who just sprained his ankle skateboarding ….). On the way, during the excursion, you should take the time to listen to the sounds of the forest and to enjoy the tropical vegetation, which is already outstanding in this area. All around you you’ll see breadfruit (a fruit we love fried, mashed or baked…yum), banana trees, chestnut trees (a variety of breadfruit), numerous vines and many of the classic tropical flowers of the area. To be honest, we really appreciated the beauty of the place the second time we went there with Mélanie (without the kids screaming in every direction).

At the end of the dirt track, you come to a concrete staircase (which is also very slippery) leading to the Bain des Amours. On arrival, for the beginning of our walking-tour in the middle of the forest, the heart-shaped bath is on your left. Nature is magnificent here (beautiful sight) and you only have to look at the trees and vegetation around you to realize this. The early morning atmosphere, with the first sunlight peeking through the foliage, is beautiful. Apart from the sound of running water and birds, there’s no noise. Of course, the atmosphere is very different, with lots of people and children, if you come in the middle of the day or in the afternoon. In a word, it’s very different. From the car park to the bain des amours it is about 300/400 meters. There is nothing too crazy. If you have children or a baby, don’t worry.

From what we were told, the pool is cleaned every week by the local council. I must say that the place is relatively neat. The pool is clean, has tiles and the water temperature is around 30/32°C (I didn’t check!). There’s a wooden deck. It’s been damaged over time, but it’s a nice place to put your things and go for a swim in this idyllic spot. So, yes, it’s far from a luxurious facility, I’ll give you that (haha), and it’s a shame that no effort has been made to improve the water drain, which consists of three large PVC pipes that (additionally) emerge at the level of the pool. The design could have been improved, but that’s not the point: it’s all about having a good time in a beautiful environment surrounded by forest and a captivating coastline with cliffs. It’s the perfect place to relax, unwind and take some time out, and it’s also ideal for families, although I have to admit that seeing children and babies all the time can’t be fun for people who want peace and quiet. I’m going to repeat myself here, but if you want peace and quiet, come in the early hours of the morning!

Access to the pool is via steps and there’s a ledge to sit on around the bath. It’s well thought out. I’d say the pool is about 60 cm deep. Even for a baby like Téo (2 years old) it’s no problem to let him run around in it.

We also had information that there were other natural pools which were accessible by a short path. There is indeed a path that leads deep into the forest on the 90° bend that leads to the Bain des amours. It’s not too complicated, just a bit slippery. We went there a few weeks after Hurricane Fiona. It devastated Guadeloupe. The area is quite damaged, so the stigmata are still there. Lots of rocks and boulders have been moved around and the river has clearly left its bed. There are even signs of landslides in some of the places. But it’s still a nice, quiet place to swim. We didn’t go swimming, but it’s possible that you might find some hot water there too. There are even several places with hot springs in the area, from what I’ve heard. Anyway, it’s still possible to swim in the river between the rocks, even in places like this. We spent half an hour there, photographing and trying to get a few long exposures. We took the same route back.

In case you’re wondering, there are indeed other places in Guadeloupe where you can find natural hot springs, natural landscapes, waterfalls especially around Bouillante: opposite the geothermal station, at the Bains chaud de Thomas (a small pool we recently discovered with water that is sometimes ultra-hot, almost dangerous), at Anse du Dépôt, Petite Anse, Bain du Curé and Bois Malher. If you’re on your own, they’re great day-tours for relaxation. I think I’ll write mini-articles about these places when I return, so you can discover these picturesque places.

Here is some quick and practical information.

• Access to the park is easy. From Basse-Terre, I’ll give you the itinerary of the route. It will take you about 15 minutes,
• As I said in the article, my advice is to be there very early, ideally between 7 and 8 in the morning. You’ll be able to enjoy the peace of the place alone,
• Admission is free. There is a car park on site.

There are plenty of places to stay nearby: from Airbnb to guesthouses, there’s something for everyone. Here are some excellent ideas if you want to stay in the area:

• Escale Caraïbes: 2-bedroomed flat with swimming pool overlooking Les Saintes,
• Corossol: a lovely place to stay just 10 minutes from the center of Trois-Rivières. All well equipped and with a swimming pool overlooking the Saintes!
• Bel z’iguane: another superb establishment with uninterrupted views, a swimming pool and lovely facilities!

Alternatively, have a look at the accommodation available in Trois-Rivières or Gourbeyre.

While you’re in the area, here are a few ideas for things to do:

• The Bassin Bleu, a beautiful waterfall surrounded by lush vegetation (popular spot),
• The Parc Archéologiques des Roches Gravées: a historical (sightseeings availables), cultural and natural visit and excursion that we think is a lot of fun (in Trois-Rivières).
• Off the Beaten Path: La Maison de la banane: learn all about the fruit,
• What to see during a day-tour in Les Saintes: Terre-de-Haut or Terre-de-Bas: we visited both and loved it (there are magnificent landscapes)!
• Discover the local walks and get lost in natural landscapes, especially the Sentier de la Grande Pointe (along the coast) or further afield, the Chute du Galion or the Chutes du Carbets.

That’s all for this article. If you’re in the area and planning your trip in Guadeloupe, don’t hesitate to come and take a dip!

See you soon for more spots to discover!

Written by Sylvain PONS

Since 2021, I've been living in the Guadeloupe archipelago with Mélanie and our two children. We are exploring these beautiful islands and discovering the treasures that we are happy to share with you!

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