Hiking to Bis Waterfall

Hi, I’m finally back with a new article about Guadeloupe. As I often say, when you live somewhere—especially on an island—you do not always make enough time to explore the places you have yet to discover. Daily life simply takes over: work, the kids, school, the house… you know the drill.

At the end of 2025, we decided to spend three days in the north of Basse-Terre, in the town of Deshaies. Melanie had wanted to rediscover this part of the island for quite a while, as we do not know it all that well. To be fair, it is more than an hour and a half from our home, and we are not always motivated to make the drive!

So I decided to pick up my pen again—or rather, my keyboard—to write an article about hiking in Guadeloupe and the famous Bis Waterfall, a waterfall that has become increasingly well known and is appearing more and more often on Instagram.

As we quickly discovered, this is one of those hikes whose name has been popping up more and more on social media lately. I call it a hike, but to be completely honest, it is really more of a short walk: it takes only about twenty minutes to reach the waterfall, and there are no major difficulties. On our way back from a weekend in Deshaies, we followed the road across northern Basse-Terre toward Sainte-Rose, then used the GPS to find our way to the famous Bis Waterfall without too much trouble.

When you arrive, there is room to park around ten cars. Unfortunately, by the time we got there at about 11 a.m., the parking area was already almost full. We still managed to find a small spot, but I definitely recommend arriving early, ideally before 8 a.m., especially if you want to avoid the crowds at the waterfall. We set off along the path leading toward the mountain, right beside what I like to call the “tourist umbrella.” We walked for a few minutes in beautiful sunshine, and everyone was happy. With all the recent work on the house, we have been making less and less time for hiking, which is honestly a shame.

A few minutes after setting off, we came to a fork in the trail. One path continues straight toward the mountain, while the other branches off to the right into the forest. Take the one on the right. The trail is flat and easy, passing a few beautiful trees and pretty flowers. It is nothing extraordinary compared with some of Guadeloupe’s longer hikes that take you deeper into the forest, but it is still pleasant.

Luckily for us, the area had seen almost no rain for nearly a week—just a few drops at most. The ground was dry, which made a welcome change from the hikes we usually do, where we tend to end up soaked to the bone and constantly watching our footing so we do not slip. Very soon, we headed down a short clay section. It was extremely dry that day, but I have encountered this kind of terrain when it is damp or wet, and it becomes very slippery. You will need to watch your step—I nearly smashed my camera after slipping on similar ground last year!

We then reached our first crossing of a branch of the Boucan River. It was already a lovely spot, with tiny waterfalls off to the side and a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere. No one else was around, so we had the place to ourselves. Even though there had been around ten cars at the trailhead, we assumed most people had already reached the waterfall. A few minutes later, we came to the trickiest part of the route. Between you and me, this is really the only section where you need to be careful. Once again, everything was dry when we passed through, so it was fairly easy, but I would be much more cautious in the rain.

The trail drops steeply over clay here, the same kind of surface we had encountered a few minutes earlier. It is very slippery and has been rather roughly equipped with ropes that, honestly, have seen better days. In wet weather, it must turn into a real skating rink, and the descent could clearly be dangerous. Even so, the kids made it through without any trouble. At the bottom, the setting was lovely, with several small pieces of wood placed here and there by hikers to help people cross a very muddy patch.

Just two minutes after that descent, we arrived at Bis Waterfall. I told you: this is not really a hike, but a simple walk—perfect for anyone whose legs still feel a little heavy after the holidays, haha. As expected, there were easily fifteen people there when we arrived. Melanie made me laugh by calling it the “new Ecrevisses Waterfall.” It is a funny comparison because, although Ecrevisses Waterfall on the Route de la Traversee is a lovely little waterfall in its own right, it can become absolutely packed because it is so easy to reach. We were a little worried that the same thing might happen here, although the steep clay descent will probably still deter some visitors. The spot has become very Instagrammable lately, and apart from the section with the ropes, there are very few difficulties.

At the site, you will find a beautiful waterfall no more than about ten meters high, with a pretty, brightly lit pool at its base. It is surrounded by distinctive vegetation and large, striking leaves, which are lovely to see. Once you look past the bimbos and the people who have come mainly to take photos for Instagram, the place is still very enjoyable. It is actually a double waterfall, divided by a huge central boulder, which gives the setting plenty of character.

In the end, we decided to eat there, as we had brought lunch with us. And you know what? People do not stay very long. Most spend ten or fifteen minutes there at most, take a few photos, sometimes go for a swim, and then leave fairly quickly. At one point, we even found ourselves almost alone, so it can happen. Still, I will say it again: arriving very early in the morning is the best way to enjoy the place without too many people around.

We spent a good hour relaxing quietly on our pareo beside the river. The kids had a great time playing with the water, the little falls, sticks, and rocks. They really do not need much, and I am almost certain they had even more fun with all that than with some of the toys they received for Christmas. I may complain, but it is probably true. About an hour later, we headed back up to the car without any trouble. We had a really enjoyable time.

A few words about our overall impression: I am still a little torn. The spot itself is lovely, but you need to be able to overlook the number of people who may be there, along with everyone taking photos, filming, or creating content for social media. Once you get past that, it is still a very beautiful waterfall.

The pool is beautiful and bright, with lovely colors, and the whole setting is genuinely pleasant. It is a good option when you want an easy little walk without planning anything complicated. The trail is well marked, there is little risk of getting lost, and access is straightforward overall. That said, I would recommend visiting in dry weather. After heavy rain, the descent is likely to be extremely slippery. Aside from that, it is a pleasant short outing.

For a longer or more immersive hike, I particularly recommend Paradise Waterfall, near Vieux-Habitants. For something a little different, Galion Falls is another very enjoyable option, at the foot of La Soufriere.

As usual, here are a few practical details.

First, of course, you will need to get to Guadeloupe. Take a look at our guide to everything you need to know about traveling to Guadeloupe, especially airfares and airlines. It should help make your options clearer.

Once you are there, I strongly recommend renting a car, as it is by far the easiest way to travel independently. We particularly recommend comparing prices through DiscoverCars, a car rental comparison site we use regularly. Whether in the Caribbean or, more recently, in Costa Rica, the United States, or Canada, we have often found good deals there.

The waterfall is located near the boundary between Sainte-Rose and Lamentin, in northern Basse-Terre. From Pointe-a-Pitre, allow roughly 20 to 30 minutes by car, depending on traffic. In any case, getting there is fairly straightforward.

I especially recommend Saut des Trois Cornes, in the hills above Sainte-Rose. I did this hike a long time ago but have not yet taken the time to write about it. There is also Lezarde Falls nearby, which is lovely and feels much wilder.

I will leave it there for now. See you soon for another walk!

Written by Sylvain PONS

Since 2021, I've been living in the Guadeloupe archipelago with Mélanie and our two children. We are exploring these beautiful islands and discovering the treasures that we are happy to share with you!

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