Visiting Angkor and its temples: a complete guide

A few years ago, I had the chance to visit the incredible Khmer city of Angkor in Cambodia. It was, of course, one of the absolute highlights of our trip through Southeast Asia. Even though the site is famous for mass tourism, it is impossible to travel to Cambodia and miss such an enigmatic and fascinating place. In this article, I’ll share everything you need to know to visit Angkor and explore the surrounding area: a short overview of the site’s history, how to get to the temples of Angkor, practical information, including passes, tours and prices, and the different ways to visit the site. I’ll also finish with some personal, genuinely useful advice before visiting this city, a powerful reminder of the strength of the Khmer Empire at its peak. If you’ve ever dreamed of feeling like Indiana Jones or Lara Croft among ancient stones, this is the place for you! So, here are the essentials to help you plan your trip and visit the famous temples of Angkor.

Even though it is clearly a major tourist destination, I still found it to be a truly beautiful discovery. It is one of those fascinating sites in Asia, just like Ha Long Bay, the Taj Mahal or the Great Wall of China.

The city of Angkor is a Cambodian archaeological site made up of hundreds of temples, ruins and hydraulic structures of all kinds, including basins, canals, reservoirs and dams, hidden in the middle of a lush jungle. Built between the 9th and 15th centuries, the city was one of the largest capitals of the Khmer Empire. It covers more than 400 km². However, more recent theories suggest that the city may already have been widely inhabited before the 9th century.

Jayavarman II is considered the main founder of the Khmer Empire at the beginning of the 9th century. The current site was chosen because of its geographical location, very close to Tonle Sap Lake, which provided access to water and food, especially fish. The fertile plains around the city were also perfect for growing rice.

The first temples, including Preak Ko, were built around 879. Just before the year 1000, other temples were built, such as Phnom Bakheng, Mebon Oriental and Prè Rup. Around 1130, Sūryavarman II built the most famous and best-known temple in the Khmer city: Angkor Wat. From the 12th century onwards, many important figures of the time succeeded one another. It was during this period that the famous temples of Bayon, Ta Phrom and Preah Khan were erected. This was the golden age of Angkor.

Between the 12th and 14th centuries, Buddhism and Hinduism alternated in influence. From that point on, the Khmer city began to decline, mainly because of wars with the neighbouring kingdom of Ayutthaya, in present-day Thailand, but also because of the difficult climatic conditions of the time. Several theories suggest that the kingdom lost control of water management, which was a vital local resource, during a period of drought.

From 1431 onwards, the Khmer city was abandoned in favour of Phnom Penh, where the government moved from the 16th century. The current site has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992. Part of the income generated by this gigantic site is used to preserve and renovate the temples, as well as to support the archaeological excavations still underway in the area. Thanks to lidar technology, archaeologists are still discovering remains of the ancient city today.

As a self-respecting geographer, I have to give you a little geographical context first. So, where exactly are the temples of Angkor? They are located in northwestern Cambodia, about 6 km north of Siem Reap. The Khmer city is also about ten kilometres from Tonle Sap Lake, further south. So, how do you get there?

Let’s get to the heart of the matter: the different options and prices for visiting the site. Since my own visit to the Khmer city, prices have increased significantly.

In 2018, prices are as follows: $37 for 1 day, $62 for 3 days and $72 for 7 days. To have the privilege of visiting Angkor, you will need to buy a pass giving you access to the different temples located within the Khmer city. When I visited Angkor, in 2014, it was still possible to buy the passes between Siem Reap and Angkor, but this seems to have changed in recent years. If you are on a scooter, ask your guesthouse where the ticket office is located. Otherwise, you can take a tuk-tuk to get there, as it is located a little outside the city. The ticket office is open from 5am to 5:30pm.

One important thing to know: the 1/3/7-day passes are actually valid for longer than that, respectively 3 days, 7 days and 1 month. This clearly allows you to make the most of your visits and give yourself a “free day” during your 3 days or your week.

We personally opted for the 3-day pass, thinking, quite logically, that one day would not be enough to enjoy the place, while 7 days would probably be a bit too long for us.

Two classic tours are offered around this great Khmer city. That said, you do not have to follow these classic routes at all and can absolutely create your own itinerary. Still, it is useful to know that the two tours include most of the city’s temples, except for the more remote ones. Also, don’t forget to give small tips to the drivers.

The Small Tour (16 Km): This is the option many tourists choose if they have bought the 1-day pass. The tour takes you to the main sites of the Khmer city, starting with the famous Angkor Wat, continuing to Phnom Bakheng, then Angkor Thom, home to the temple of a thousand faces, the Bayon and the Terrace of the Elephants, followed by Ta Keo and Ta Prohm, famous for its huge trees and roots tangled into the stones of the temple. The route ends with a visit to Banteay Kdei and a return to Angkor Wat for sunset.

If you are not a huge fan of ancient stones and don’t mind rushing a little, this can be a possible option.

The Big Tour (25 Km): This tour, bigger than the small one, strange, isn’t it, allows you to discover a whole series of temples slightly outside the main area. The beginning is quite similar to the small tour, but it takes you to more temples, such as, in order, Preah Khan, Banteasy Prei/Prasat Prei, the Jayatataka pond, Ta Som, splendid, the East Mebon and finally Prasat Leak. The route ends at the temple of Banteay Kdei.

This tour can be done in one day, which is what we did, but you have to leave very early because of the heat. I’ll tell you more about that below, in my personal tips for visiting Angkor.

Depending on your budget, your wishes, your motivation and how well you cope with the heat, there are several ways to visit Angkor and its temples. The most motivated travellers might consider taking their time and doing it on foot, but the distances are long and the heat can be overwhelming, so I’m not sure it is the best option. Especially as the first temples of Angkor are located about 10 km from Siem Reap, where you will probably be staying.

This is the option we chose for our 3 days of visits to Angkor. It is the most economical way, apart from walking, and the one we enjoyed the most. However, you will have to cycle the distance between Siem Reap and Angkor every morning, along a road that is not particularly interesting. Once there, you are completely independent and can enjoy the splendid landscapes freely, with the wind and the heat! The roads are flat there, and I found the rides relatively easy. In any case, we don’t remember suffering too much. Taking your time to soak up the atmosphere is really great by bike.

You can rent a city bike for 1/2$ or a mountain bike for about 5$/day almost anywhere in Siem Reap. In my opinion, if you have time and don’t mind the heat, cycling is really one of the best ways to visit Angkor.

Contrary to what you may read on some blogs, it is indeed possible to visit Angkor by scooter. However, a recent law has banned scooter rentals for tourists in the Siem Reap area. The trick I found was to rent a scooter registered in an area other than Siem Reap. This way, you are independent, even if I personally didn’t like the idea of riding a noisy, polluting machine through such a dream setting, hence our choice of a bicycle. It costs about 10$/day, negotiable over several days at 8$/day. You then need to add 2$ of fuel/day, to be on the safe side.

This is the easiest option, and the one many tourists choose in this very busy area. You don’t need to look far: tuk-tuk drivers will come to you as soon as you enter Siem Reap. Even if there are more or less standard rates depending on the number of days or tours you choose, the final price will depend on how good you are at negotiating. Count between 15 and 20$ for the small tour, between 20 and 25$ for the big tour, and between 25 and 35$ for some of the more remote sites around Angkor. These rates are per day and per tuk-tuk.

Tips: make sure you know exactly what you are planning to visit, whether it is a tour or temples chosen in advance. If you choose to take a tuk-tuk for several days, you can negotiate even lower prices. Try to find other tourists so you can share the ride between 4 or 5 people maximum. And don’t be fooled into negotiating according to the number of people: the price is always per tuk-tuk!

The downside is that you will not be able to change the route along the way without renegotiating. Personally, I was not really in favour of using a motorised vehicle to visit such a beautiful and natural site. However, it is good to know that it is a possible solution! That said, we did choose a tuk-tuk on the 4th day to visit the remote temples of Angkor, which are impossible to reach by bike…

I was already not a big fan of the tuk-tuk idea, so I liked this option even less. If you are travelling as a large group, are tired of walking and want air conditioning and comfort, then this solution is probably for you. But in my opinion, you really miss something if you don’t choose a more local way of getting around. That’s it for the main ways to discover the city of Angkor!

A few quick words about the weather in the city. Overall, there are far more visitors during the dry season, which runs roughly from November to February. During this period, rain is rare and temperatures are a little cooler.
The rainy season runs from May to September. You are much more likely to have rain, even heavy monsoon rain, and temperatures will also be higher, which is normal since it is summer. On the other hand, you will come across far fewer tourists, although I can assure you there will always be some!
You are free to choose the best period depending on your wishes, your world trip itinerary or anything else!

I wrote a complete article about when to go to Cambodia according to the weather, festivals, local holidays, and so on.

Here is, in no particular order, all my advice for visiting the temples of Angkor without stress and, above all, while avoiding tourists as much as possible.

Some common sense first:

• Regarding the dress code, it is forbidden to visit the temples in shorts, a short skirt or a tank top. Even if it is hot, I advise wearing trousers from the beginning of the day and keeping a small scarf in your bag to cover your shoulders if necessary. And given the red laterite soil, avoid wearing white…
• Needless to say, the temples are fragile. Between the centuries that have passed and the millions of tourists who visit every year, the city is really put to the test. So please respect the site by climbing on the temples only when you are authorised to do so,
• If you want to take pictures of monks in the temples, always ask for permission,
• The Angkor area is non-smoking. I’m saying this for the addicts…

• Take your time to enjoy the place and opt for the 3 or 7-day pass. The one-day pass is, in my opinion, far too short to fully enjoy the site. You will only skim the surface…
• I recommend renting a bike for the three days whenever possible. It is enjoyable, cheap and eco-friendly,
• Be aware that you will need to get up early, and I mean very early, and be at the temples as soon as they open, around 5.30/6 a.m. This way, you will already avoid the Asian buses and tour operators who arrive around 8/9 am. Also keep in mind that as soon as the sun rises higher in the sky, it can get really hot in the temples,
• Don’t hesitate to get lost among the smaller, lesser-known temples, far from the beaten path. Explore every corner,
• Sunrise over Angkor Wat can be grandiose, but you will definitely not be alone. If the sun is not shining, leave the place quickly to get ahead of the other tourists and move on to the next temples,
• Make the most of the hours when tourists are eating. So, plan your meals after 2pm, for example. Between 12:00 and 14:00, there are fewer people, making it a great opportunity to explore the temples,
• Ask around, other tourists and tuk-tuk drivers, to find out which direction the tours are usually done in, then go the opposite way. This is what I did on the big loop, and I had the chance to be alone, or almost alone, for 2 hours, between 5:30 and 7:30 am. What a pleasure it was to discover these beauties in a quiet atmosphere, without the noisy crowds,
• Last but not least, don’t forget the temples located outside the city of Angkor, which are a bit off the beaten track. They are really worth a look! Take the time to admire all the bas-reliefs, which are incredibly rich. Go there in a small group of tourists with a tuk-tuk.

I hope this article has helped you understand everything you need to know about visiting Angkor. You now have everything you need to make the most of your visit to the city. Have you already been there yourself? What did you think?

The city is one of the jewels of Southeast Asia, alongside Ha Long Bay in Vietnam or the majestic temples of Bagan in Myanmar, and one of those wonders of the world you should see at least once in your life.

Don’t hesitate to have a look at the UNESCO website about the Angkor temples.

Have a good trip.