A few days on Mataiva Atoll

I’m making the most of my 5-hour flight from Tahiti to New Zealand’s South Island to finally tell you about the few days I spent on the beautiful atoll of Mataiva on vacation. Unless you live in French Polynesia, I’d say there’s a good chance you’ve never heard of this atoll.

In recent years, Mataiva has become better known locally for its calm, authenticity, and the fact that it remains far from the usual itineraries. In fact, I have never had a traveler ask me about it, with most people preferring the more famous trio: “Rangiroa – Fakarava – Tikehau”. These are the only three atolls included in Air Tahiti’s main multi-island passes. In short, we wanted a change of scenery and decided to spend this long weekend somewhere less visited. So off we went to Mataiva.

If you’re looking for a more accessible atoll, try Fakarava Atoll.

The funny thing about this atoll, so to speak, is that it is so small you only spot it from the plane at the very last moment, and for less than a minute. From above, the atoll looks like a collection of small, shallow pools in the shades of turquoise we love so much. It is a quick glimpse, but it promises beautiful things.

As is often the case in the French Polynesian islands, the guesthouse where we’re staying for these few days, Pension Ariiheevai, comes to pick us up with the other guests, mostly locals. We are welcomed with beautiful flower leis and climb into a 4×4 heading toward the guesthouse. When we arrive, we discover the lovely setting of this small property on the edge of the lagoon: a few bungalows at the back, a large dining room, and some concrete tables and benches where you can sit and admire the beautiful color of the lagoon. We won’t be too badly off here. The only downside is that quite a few people had the same idea of coming here for the long weekend. For us, looking for peace and quiet, that part was a bit of a miss.

After quickly settling into our large bungalow, we spend the afternoon joining everyone for a tour. I have to admit, as I mentioned above, that it was a bit of a shame because the guesthouse was full and there were more than twenty of us. That meant moving around in three 4×4s each time, which gave the whole thing a bit of a summer-camp feel. Still, we went with it and enjoyed the places, because they were truly beautiful.

We set off on a short 4×4 ride along the only dirt road that circles the island. The atmosphere is lovely, and clearly, there are no crowds here. We stop beside a beautiful white-sand beach where raised coral blocks appear here and there, adding a certain charm to the place. The shades of blue in front of us are impressive, and we quickly realize just how shallow the lagoon and its basins are. It makes you want to go snorkeling and explore the local marine life, fauna, and coral reef.

The guide suggests crossing the turquoise lagoon on foot to reach a bird island in front of us. So off we go, walking through coral and rays in about 60 cm of turquoise water toward this famous islet. There, hundreds of birds have made their home in a beautiful, lush setting. We see many birds, although I’m not familiar enough with their names, sorry, and I’m even lucky enough to get close to a blue-footed booby. The islet is made up of raised dead coral where many eggs have been laid. In short, we spend a good half hour in this beautiful setting before heading back to the guesthouse to end the afternoon. A beautiful introduction.

We begin this first day by heading toward the other end of the atoll, still with our three 4×4s. After a short drive, we arrive at the spot for the day. The place is truly remarkable: a small metal shelter built on the edge of a splendid hoa with crystal-clear colors. These hoa, as they are called locally, are shallow false passes that connect the ocean and the lagoon. While the cooks prepare the meal, we take time to enjoy the place.

Personally, I walk to the tip of the island where we are. The place is beautiful, and the color of the water is superb. I also use the setting to gain some height with my drone. Right next to the site, you’ll also find the site of King Tu Paure’s tomb (sorry, in French). Here are two small photos to appreciate the place from above!

We also take the opportunity to pose for a few photos in the hoa, which is particularly beautiful. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to fully enjoy the grilled-fish meal at the time, as I had been poisoned by ciguatera a few months earlier. However, I did enjoy some very good “ipo”, an artisanal coconut bread grilled on the barbecue. A real treat.

In short, we spend the day wandering through what many people would probably call a small paradise. The only little hitch, for my taste, is that there are far too many of us to fully enjoy the place. But we make the best of it. On the way back, we stop at the famous “Turtle Rock – Ofai Tau Noa”, a partially eroded coral block raised above the edge of the beach.

On the second day, we follow the group again and set off to discover another part of Mataiva, this time a motu, one of those famous sandbanks on the coral reef. I leave by boat from the guesthouse with part of the group, while Melanie and Louis go by road in a 4×4.

The boat ride is quite pleasant. We pass through all the small, shallow basins of the lagoon and really realize how little water there is. Coral appears almost everywhere, and you have to be very careful not to damage anything with the boat. The boatman is used to it, so no worries. We stop at the “pito of the island – Mataiva Papa”, the belly button in Tahitian, a sort of small raised coral islet that looks as though it has been placed in the lagoon. A few more minutes by boat, and we arrive at the motu of the day. In my eyes, the setting is even more beautiful than the day before. A small golden-sand beach lies at the edge of the motu, surrounded by two hoa. There is nothing particular to see or do here. We are simply here to relax, unwind, and enjoy the paradise-like setting. Everyone does their own thing while waiting for the cooks to prepare lunch.

We take the opportunity to get away from our “big group” and walk along the motu, enjoying the splendid views and the colors of the water in the hoa. Raised dead coral emerges on both sides of the place and gives it a beautiful atmosphere. We also enjoy swimming in the translucent water, in natural pools that look as though they have been dug into the middle of the hoa. Some are almost as deep as I am tall, and it feels really good to be there. We spend the rest of the day as a family, enjoying this beautiful place along with a good meal. Another lovely day.

Every evening, we have the chance to go for a walk along the lagoon, not far from the guesthouse. At sunset, with beautiful light, it is lovely all over again. We never get tired of it.

The next day, we visit “the swimming pool of Mataiva”, a large deep hole corresponding to the old phosphate quarry.

I have to say that locally, I had heard really good things about this atoll. It is well known for its panoramic landscapes, its turquoise lagoon and basins, and the fact that relatively few visitors come here. Unfortunately for us, if I can put it that way, our timing wasn’t ideal. The guesthouse was full during that long weekend, and having to move around in three 4×4s for three days spoiled things a little.

But “spoiled” is probably too strong a word, because we still spent three excellent days on this little piece of paradise. The fact that there were many of us at the guesthouse and during the outings does not take away from the fact that the atoll is superb, and the scenery we saw was genuinely beautiful. I do regret the organization proposed by the accommodation, which felt a bit like a summer camp whenever we all moved together. It’s a shame they don’t offer several alternatives when the guesthouse is full, such as splitting people into smaller groups. It would avoid that herd effect, haha!

In spite of everything, I have wonderful memories of Mataiva, much more beautiful in my eyes than the atoll of Ahe, for example, which we had seen a few months earlier. Of course, we did not have the opportunity to do much snorkeling and, from what we saw, there is very little marine life in the lagoon, which is too shallow and almost closed. Still, if you live around here or are on vacation and looking for a less touristy atoll than the classic Tikehau/Fakarava/Rangiroa trio, Mataiva is a very nice alternative.

As usual, here are a few paragraphs to help you organize a short stay here.

I’m leaving aside the few people who might be lucky enough to reach the atoll on their own boat, for example while sailing across the South Pacific. I envy you a little, I must admit. Logically, you will first need to get to Tahiti, the main gateway to French Polynesia. To find the cheapest flights from where you live, I recommend checking this flight comparator. I’ve been using it for over 10 years now, and I almost never travel without it.

Once in Tahiti, you unfortunately don’t have many options. I’m not aware of any regular boat or cargo ship serving Mataiva, although it is possible that some connections exist, especially from Rangiroa. Most of you will fly from Tahiti with the local airline Air Tahiti. Be careful with the flight schedule: Air Tahiti’s provisional timetables change twice a year, in April and November, and service to Mataiva is limited, so double-check the current schedule before choosing your dates or booking your accommodation. Once you arrive, Mataiva airport is close to the village of Pahua. There is no public shuttle, so if you have booked a guesthouse, ask your hosts in advance whether they can arrange the transfer to and from the airport.

The difficulty with getting to Mataiva, at least for travelers, is that this atoll is not included in Air Tahiti’s main multi-island passes, the famous passes I mentioned above, which can save you quite a bit on internal flights. So, you’ll usually need to take a round-trip flight to the atoll, with the length of your stay depending on the current schedule.

For locals, and possibly passing travelers too, you can consider booking a trip with “Séjour dans les îles”, which offers a flight + accommodation + half-board + activities package with the island’s two guesthouses, if I’m not mistaken. At the time of our trip, the prices were identical and the whole package cost around 52,000 CFP per person, about €430, which, for an “all-inclusive” stay in French Polynesia, was still quite reasonable.

We chose to stay at Pension Ariiheevai. Apart from the fact that the accommodation was full, which was not really their fault, everything went very well there. The welcome was very warm, with flower leis, and the bungalows were very large, simple, and functional, in a magical setting almost directly on the white-sand beach. A few bikes and kayaks are available, although they could use a little refresh, and there is even a small store next door where you can buy something for sunset drinks.

I don’t know the other guesthouse, Pension Mataiva Village, so it’s difficult to give an opinion. Geographically, though, it seemed to me to be less well located. Of course, if you are looking for luxury or overwater hotels, this is not the place for you.

As for food, if you book a “Séjour dans les îles” package, you don’t have much to worry about since you’ll be on full board. Otherwise, if you only booked a return flight from Tahiti, you can find a few stores in the main Polynesian village, Pahua. Overall, the food at the guesthouse was quite good, with plenty of fish, of course.

Again, it all depends on how you have organized your stay. We traveled with the whole group in 4×4s because it was included in our package. But you could also take a bike or even walk around part of the atoll. With plenty of water and a bit of courage, I think you can more or less get around on foot.

There you have it, we’ve already reached the end! I hope you enjoyed this little trip to Mataiva and that it makes you want to go there. Today, the atoll lives mainly from tourism and, to a lesser extent, copra farming, so it is rather nice to go and discover these lesser-known corners of French Polynesia. Did you enjoy the trip?

See you soon for another discovery! If you like atolls, I invite you to discover the atoll of Tikehau, another wonder.

Sylvain

Written by Sylvain PONS

From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.

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