Fakarava Atoll: a must-see in the Tuamotus

Honestly, it took me a while to understand why I still hadn’t written about Fakarava Atoll after spending six years in French Polynesia. I still don’t have a clear answer, but I think it was more of an oversight on my part than anything else. After all, I’ve already written about other classic Tuamotu atolls, such as Rangiroa and Tikehau.

When I think about it, I’m the only one who has visited this well-known atoll twice—once on a short work trip and once during a catamaran cruise in the Tuamotus. Even though I’ve explored Fakarava a little, I can’t say I know it inside out. Still, for a blog that talks so much about French Polynesia, it felt important to share an article about Fakarava Atoll with my readers. In this article, I’ll tell you what to do in Fakarava Atoll. Even though we no longer live in French Polynesia, this was definitely an article I needed to write.

To be completely honest, I don’t know the atoll like the back of my hand. I’ve also gathered plenty of useful feedback from friends and family who spent several days there, and we’ve drawn on the research we did for our complete guide to French Polynesia (only in French for now, sorry).

Here is our complete guide to Fakarava, with places to visit, things to do, activities to try, and practical tips at the end of the article. Fakarava may be less famous than Bora Bora, the Pearl of the Pacific, but it is still a must-see in French Polynesia.

Unfortunately, I lost most of my photos from the atoll in a hard drive crash, so not all the pictures here are ours!

Want to learn more about the Tuamotus? We’ve put together a complete guide covering all the essentials.

Here are a few key facts if you’re interested in Fakarava Atoll:

• The atoll is in the Pacific Ocean, in the Tuamotu Archipelago, and is part of the UNESCO-listed Commune de Fakarava Biosphere Reserve, alongside Aratika, Kauehi, Niau, Raraka, Taiaro, and Toau. Interestingly, I’ve personally visited all of them except Taiaro.
• The atoll is known worldwide for its exceptional scuba diving.
• It spans 21 km in width and 60 km in length, making it the second-largest atoll in French Polynesia after Rangiroa.
• It has two main passes: the North Pass, known as Garuae, and the South Pass, known as Tumakohua or Tetamanu.

The atoll is definitely worth visiting, especially if you love the sea. As I often say, the Tuamotu atolls do share a lot of similarities, and most activities and must-see spots are connected to the lagoon or the ocean. That makes sense when you’re only a few meters above sea level. If you prefer land-based activities, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend visiting more than one atoll, as you may find the experience a little repetitive.

Even though I’ve been to Fakarava twice, I still haven’t dived there, despite the atoll’s reputation as a paradise for divers. I have, however, spent plenty of time in the water, exploring coral gardens, seeing turtles and tropical fish, and swimming with sharks. Whether you’re in the North Pass or the South Pass, the underwater scenery is exceptional. Overall, the coral in Fakarava seemed healthier to me than what I saw in Rangiroa. On the other hand, dolphin encounters are less common here than in Tiputa Pass in Rangiroa. I have to admit, I really wish I’d had my mask and fins with me more often to snorkel properly and explore the marine life.

Most travelers stay near the main village, not far from the North Pass, which is reached by a short boat ride. Tumakohua Pass, also known as the South Pass, sits at the southern end of the atoll and is roughly 50 to 75 minutes away by boat from the north, depending on conditions. If you love diving, consider spending two days around each pass, north and south. The experience is really worth it. Although I didn’t dive at Tetamanu, spending two days around the South Pass on a catamaran gave me one of the most freeing and magical feelings I’ve had in Polynesia. Exploring the turquoise lagoon, surrounded by marine life, was unforgettable. Take the time to visit the charming little church and the old cemetery too; they are really beautiful.

When it comes to dive centers, most are based around the North Pass. That said, I can’t recommend one club over another from personal experience. In the north, you’ll find O2 Fakarava, Top Dive, Dive Spirit, and Kaina Plongée. In the south, there are fewer options. You can either go with Tetamanu Diving Centre, which seems to receive more mixed feedback, or, alternatively (and this would be our recommendation), choose Enata Fakarava Diving. This newer dive center is based near Pension Raimiti, not far from the South Pass. We’ve had excellent feedback about both the dive center and the guesthouse, where friends have stayed and absolutely loved the experience.

Fakarava’s lagoon is vast, making it a wonderful playground for lagoon excursions. There are several areas to choose from, but the most classic and popular trip is the Blue Lagoon, in the north of the atoll, just under an hour by boat from the main village. No doubt about it: this is one of the must-see experiences during a stay in Fakarava.

If you have a little more time, consider another day trip to the South Pass and Les Sables Roses.

Because of the distance from the North Pass, this is a full-day trip. It usually includes several snorkeling stops around islets in a beautiful setting, swimming with blacktip sharks, discovering the small village and the atmosphere around Tetamanu, and enjoying the beautiful pink-sand beaches in the south of the Polynesian atoll. You can also take half-day trips to the Green Lagoon or the Pufana site in the north.

Several companies offer this type of excursion. We’ve heard good things about Kariga 2 Excursions, but there are others too.

For a richer experience, we recommend setting aside two days for two different day trips.

This is a great opportunity to learn more about pearl farming. You can also visit similar places in the Leeward Islands, such as Raiatea or Huahine.

In Fakarava, we often suggest visiting the pearl farm at Havaiki Lodge, a well-known spot on the atoll and the oldest pearl farm still active there. You can tour the farm and, of course, buy a pearl if you feel like treating yourself.

You won’t cover the entire atoll by bike (it’s huge), but cycling is one of the easiest ways to get around. Start early to avoid the strongest heat, as there is very little shade along the roads.

The route itself doesn’t have endless sights, but it’s still worth spending time in the main village of Rotoava and going to see the Taputavaka and Topoka lighthouses.

Take a moment to explore both sides of the atoll. It’s surprising how you can walk from the turquoise lagoon side to the ocean side in just a few minutes. The two sides feel very different, and I really recommend seeing both.

We cycled to the end of the road, where the North Pass is located. You can’t really swim there, but the view is well worth it. On the lagoon side, around PK 9, you can stop at a beautiful white-sand beach for a peaceful break.

Heading south, there isn’t anything especially specific to see, apart from that incredible feeling of riding along a road at the edge of the world, between two oceans!

Still, I really loved my few days in Fakarava. It remains a magical place, especially around the South Pass, where you truly get that end-of-the-world feeling. I can still picture that magnificent sunset over the South Pass as if it were yesterday. It was honestly moving.

For a honeymoon in Polynesia, though, I would still recommend Rangiroa if accommodation comfort is a major priority.

When it comes to water sports, beyond scuba diving and snorkeling, you can try board sports such as kitesurfing and wakeboarding, as well as activities like paddleboarding or kayaking with Tuamotu Kite School. There’s also jet skiing, although it’s not our favorite, and quad biking (even if, to be honest, it doesn’t make a whole lot of sense on an atoll). If you’re looking for land-based activities, we suggest exploring the high islands of French Polynesia instead, such as the Marquesas, Hiva Oa, Nuku Hiva, and Ua Pou.

Here is the essential practical information you need to know before visiting Fakarava Atoll.

Getting to Fakarava has become easier since our first visit to Tahiti. You can still find reasonably priced flights, especially if you’re flexible with your travel dates and airline choice. Check Skyscanner’s flight comparator for potential great deals.

Once you’re in French Polynesia, the process is straightforward. You’ll most likely fly with Air Tahiti, the airline serving the atoll. A direct flight from Tahiti to Fakarava takes around 1 hour and 10 minutes, which makes it an easy atoll to include in a Polynesian itinerary. Fakarava, along with Rangiroa and Tikehau, is one of the classic Tuamotu stops, and it fits well into an itinerary if you’re planning to visit several atolls, especially for diving. It is usually the most practical approach.

Unfortunately, regular passenger boat options from Tahiti (Papeete) to Fakarava are not really a realistic option for most travelers today.

Getting around this large atoll is fairly simple. Fakarava Airport is on the main motu, some distance from the village of Rotoava, and there is no public shuttle service, so ask your accommodation in advance whether they can organize your arrival and departure transfers. Once settled, you can rent a regular or electric bike for the day and explore at your own pace. Most of your time will likely be spent diving or joining boat excursions, and in both cases, the provider will usually pick you up from your accommodation. Some guesthouses also offer car or buggy rentals, which can be handy depending on where you’re staying.

There are several options, but keep in mind that luxury accommodation, such as overwater bungalows, is not really the norm here. Here is a quick overview:

North side:

• Camping: You can pitch your tent at Camping Tekopa Village or Relais Marama. At Tekopa Village, count around 4,000 XPF/night for 2 people, plus local tax.
• Guesthouses: During both of my visits, I enjoyed staying at Paparara Guesthouse. It has a great atmosphere and excellent food. Other options include Vekeveke Village and Tokerau Village.
• Lodge: Havaiki Lodge is a well-known address and a comfortable option on the atoll. Other possibilities include Fafapiti Lodge Fakarava.

The south

• Campsite: Try Camping Tetamanu Chez Sab. It’s simple, but the hospitality is said to be excellent.
• Guesthouses: Consider Raimiti Guesthouse or Motu Aito Paradise; both have received good feedback.

Any other ideas?

• Fare Tua – Meko and Kito: a little haven of peace facing the lagoon, where you can enjoy a fully equipped house with a garden and bicycles, with the beach close by for a cozy, independent stay.
• Alaroots Fakarava: a friendly, down-to-earth hostel offering rooms and tents, perfect for travelers who want to share a kitchen, a garden, and local evenings at a reasonable price.

We have also put together a complete guide to help you choose your accommodation.

That wraps up my Fakarava visit summary. I hope this article has given you a clearer idea of the best things to do in Fakarava. This atoll is truly remarkable, especially if you love diving. You should not be disappointed: turtles, rays, sharks, colorful fish, and, of course, coral reefs are all part of the experience!

If you’re looking for less crowded but equally beautiful destinations for your trip, take a look at the atolls of Mataiva, Ahé, and Kauehi in Oceania, in the South Pacific.

Stay tuned for more articles to help you plan your trip to French Polynesia, whether for a honeymoon or another kind of adventure.

Sylvain

Written by Sylvain PONS

From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.

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