Wai-O-Tapu: the visit and my opinion

Although this travel blog mainly focuses on French Polynesia, where I had been living for three years at the time of writing, I recently had the opportunity to discover New Zealand in October 2018. Many people dream of visiting the country, and we all picture the magnificent landscapes from The Lord of the Rings: volcanoes, glaciers, mountains, high-altitude lakes, heavenly beaches, and more.

During my road trip around the North Island, I discovered one of the country’s remarkable geothermal areas: Wai-O-Tapu, also sometimes written Waiotapu. This article will introduce you to this spectacular site, which is well worth a visit if you are traveling around the country. At the end, I share my opinion of the experience and all the practical information you need to plan your visit during a trip to New Zealand. Enjoy the walk!

Sorry, but as a geographer and geologist by profession, I have to give you a brief overview of the site. Wai-O-Tapu is a geothermal area that became active around 15,000 years ago. The site is thought to be the result of major volcanic eruptions that occurred some 150,000 years ago. Wai-O-Tapu lies on the edge of the Taupo Volcanic Zone, a vast rift approximately 250 km long that begins in the center of New Zealand’s North Island and extends toward the Bay of Plenty. The Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, and Ruapehu volcanoes are among the most visible signs of this volcanic activity. White Island lies at the far end of the rift, directly in the Bay of Plenty.

I must admit that I arrived with a few preconceived ideas about the visit. We had met several travelers who told us that the area was a major tourist attraction. It is indeed one of the most visited sites on the North Island.

That is why we decided to leave our accommodation very early and arrive before the crowds. This gave us the best possible chance of exploring without being surrounded by people. When we arrived, the size of the parking lot and the security arrangements immediately suggested just how many visitors must pass through the site. As soon as it opened, we set off as quickly as possible, map of the must-see features in hand.

The site has three distinct sections: the main Wai-O-Tapu geothermal area, the Lady Knox Geyser, and the well-known Mud Pool near the exit from the main park. After reading and hearing a great deal about it, we decided not to visit the geyser, which, in my opinion, feels more like a tourist attraction. Many visitors misunderstand how it works and end up disappointed after making the effort to go there. Why the disappointment? Quite simply because the geyser does not erupt continuously, so park staff use a soap-based product to trigger the eruption. So much for an entirely natural experience… It was not for us!

If you have already visited geothermal areas in places such as Iceland or Yellowstone, you will recognize the signs as soon as you enter the site: the smell of sulfur and rotten eggs, and colors ranging from gray to beige, with every imaginable shade of orange, red, and yellow in between.

Our first steps take us straight to Devil’s Home, an example of a collapsed crater. It gives you an immediate sense of just how unstable the ground can be. The yellow and gray colors are a clear reminder of the strong presence of sulfur vapor. You could say it is quite an introduction to the site.

The trail continues through gray and orange areas dotted with numerous fumaroles. You then come face-to-face with Devil’s Ink Pots, a series of bubbling mud pools. I had already seen similar pools in Iceland and elsewhere, but they are always fascinating to watch. The rich brown color and large bubbles are quite a sight!

The walk continues to the remarkable Artist’s Palette. Located only a short distance from the famous Champagne Pool, this area offers an incredible view over a vivid, multicolored landscape. It is easy to understand where the name comes from, with almost every color of the rainbow on display. As soon as you begin descending along the trail, you can already glimpse the site’s centerpiece, with its striking red tones.

One of the nicest features is that you can cross this colorful area on a small wooden footbridge. You eventually reach the huge, bubbling Champagne Pool, the park’s main attraction. It is the largest pool in the park, measuring 65 m in diameter and 62 m deep, with water at a temperature of 75°C. It almost makes you want to take a swim, although the water is obviously far too hot for a dip. The pool takes its name from the streams of carbon dioxide bubbles rising to the surface, just like the bubbles in a glass of champagne.

The site is truly beautiful and, in my opinion, the most impressive part of the park. The only challenge when taking photos is waiting for the wind to change direction so that the steam is not blowing toward you. I still managed to capture a few good shots, so I was happy.

The most beautiful part of Wai-O-Tapu Park: the Champagne Pool

The rest of the trail also has some interesting features, including several small gray lakes along the way. At the far end of the route, you reach the beautiful green Lake Ngakoro, fed by a small waterfall. Even though we arrived early, more than an hour and a half after opening, the area was already packed with tourists, all rushing to take selfies in front of the lake… The scenery was superb, but the atmosphere was far less enjoyable with such a large crowd.

On the way back, the path climbs alongside the Primrose Terrace, where you can admire the vivid colors and silica deposits.

By the time we returned to the visitor center after two hours in the park, at around 10 a.m., a huge crowd had already gathered. I cannot imagine how busy it must be in peak season. On our way out, we made a quick stop at the Mud Pool. These large pools of boiling mud are always surprising to watch. They are similar to the ones inside Wai-O-Tapu, but much bigger!

Well, I am not quite sure how to put this, because I think it largely depends on whether you have already seen this type of geothermal site. If you have had the opportunity to visit similar places in Iceland, Yellowstone, which I visited later, or elsewhere, I am not sure Wai-O-Tapu is truly essential. I am not saying the site is not worth seeing, but apart from the Champagne Pool and the green lake at the end, much of it is fairly standard.

What spoiled the experience for me, once again, was the sheer number of visitors. At the beginning of the visit, when you arrive early, it is still manageable and you can find quiet spots to take photos. By the middle and end of the route, however, it becomes chaotic. I remember not even managing to take any photos when we reached the lake. At times, we had to stop simply to let groups of people pass. In the end, the crowds really detracted from the visit.

If I had to choose, I would prefer the geothermal site of Orakei Korako, which I discuss in another article. It is not far from Wai-O-Tapu, and if you are visiting the area, I would personally choose that one instead. Admittedly, it is not as large or imposing, but we were almost alone there. You also have to cross a small stretch of the river by boat, which is included in the visit, to reach the site, and that was a nice touch… I will tell you more about it in the other article.

Here is all the information you need to plan your visit. For the latest details, you can check the official Wai-O-Tapu website.

Here are a few key points to keep in mind when planning your visit.

As of 2026, admission costs approximately NZ$45 per adult and NZ$15 per child aged 5 to 15. A family pass for two adults and up to three children costs approximately NZ$105. Children under five can enter free of charge. Is it expensive? Everyone will have to make up their own mind. I would still say it is not particularly cheap for an enjoyable visit that would not necessarily rank among my top ten experiences.

Opening hours are now the same throughout the year. The site is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., with final admission at 3 p.m., and it is closed on Christmas Day. I recommend arriving as soon as it opens, or even slightly beforehand, particularly if you want to take photos before the crowds arrive.

As for whether you should book in advance, it is difficult to say with certainty. During peak season, visitor numbers can be high, so booking ahead is probably a sensible option.

By the way, if you are planning your trip, I have also written an article about the budget for a trip to New Zealand.

You can easily drive to the site on your own. It is approximately 30 minutes from Rotorua, 1 hour and 15 minutes from Matamata in the Hobbiton area, and around 35 minutes from Lake Taupo. Many visitors arrive by car or campervan from Rotorua. Simply follow State Highway 5 toward Taupo. For reference, I booked my three-week car rental through this great website. If you would rather take a road trip in a van or campervan, the best comparison site in my opinion is this one.

If you do not have your own transportation, organized tours run from Rotorua, Auckland, and other nearby cities. You can also combine your visit with other attractions in the area, such as Te Puia or Waimangu Volcanic Valley.

If you are looking for cheap flights to New Zealand, take a look here.

If you are traveling around the region, the easiest option is to stay near Rotorua, which makes a convenient base for planning activities and walks in the area. You can follow this link to find my recommendations for places to stay nearby.

You may be wondering why I am talking about the seasons. When I visited in October, it was not warm at all, particularly in the evenings and at night. It was one of the few places in the center of the island where the temperature dropped to 3°C (37°F), and we decided to sleep in a small room rather than camp. Admittedly, it also cost us the same amount!

Generally speaking, I would advise you to take the season into account when budgeting and planning your trip to New Zealand, and perhaps avoid the depths of winter. Remember that the seasons are reversed in the Southern Hemisphere, so the coldest months generally run from June to September. October was already spring, yet in mid-August, temperatures can fall to 0°C or below, even on the North Island.

So, what else can you do in the region? Quite a lot, actually. Anyone who enjoys outdoor activities and hiking will find plenty to do around Lake Taupo, Huka Falls, the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing, or the Waitomo Caves. If you are exploring the area, you could also visit the beautiful filming location from The Lord of the Rings at Hobbiton. For fans of the movies, it is a must-see. Not far away, you can have a picnic at Kerosene Creek, a geothermal hot-spring spot that is well known among backpackers in the area. Finally, if you have enough time, I really recommend visiting the Coromandel Peninsula.

That brings me to the end of this article. I hope you enjoyed coming along for the visit. Perhaps you are also looking for ideas for itineraries for a trip around New Zealand’s North Island?

Have a great trip,

See you soon.

Written by Sylvain PONS

Living in French Polynesia at the time, I explored New Zealand from 2017 to 2020 during two road trips of two months each. As a family, we camped and discovered the beauty of these two islands.

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