Cruise in the Tuamotus

I had been living in French Polynesia for 4 years when I wrote these lines. I still can’t believe how quickly those four years went by, or how lucky I was to discover so many Polynesian wonders and islands. If, deep down, you dream of untouched white-sand beaches, a turquoise lagoon, lush vegetation, warm temperatures all year round, and a pleasant tropical climate, chances are French Polynesia has already crossed your mind, with names as evocative as Tahiti, Bora Bora (the Pearl of the Pacific) or the Marquesas.

Over the past few years, I had the chance to visit the Tuamotu archipelago several times. It is best known for its many Polynesian atolls, including two of the most famous in the world for scuba diving and snorkeling: Fakarava and Rangiroa. These low-lying islands, almost floating on the ocean, are a dream for anyone who loves nature, remote paradise-like places, wildly colored lagoons, and underwater worlds to explore through water activities such as snorkeling or diving. I already knew several Polynesian atolls personally: Tikehau, Rangiroa, Fakarava, Kauehi, Tetiaroa, Niau, Aratika, Raraka, and more recently Ahé. And I have to say, visiting these tiny pieces of paradise never gets old…

I was lucky enough to discover more Tuamotu atolls by spending a full week sailing on a catamaran, in partnership with Poe Charter and Tahiti Tourisme. The Poe Charter team, whom I know well, had recently announced the creation of a permanent charter base on Apataki Atoll. A first! The idea behind it? To develop tourism and offer charter cruises in the Tuamotus from Apataki, Fakarava, or Rangiroa. So I was really happy to board a Poe Charter catamaran for a week and discover these wonders.

Together with two French journalists, Bernard Rubinstein and Christine Camuset, who were writing for Voile Magazine / Le monde du Multicoque, and the Italian journalist Federica Presutto, who was assigned by TU Style magazine, I was about to try the kind of cruise that would be offered in September to anyone wanting to discover this little piece of paradise!

On the program? A flight to Fakarava, time on its turquoise lagoon, then the magnificent atoll of Toau, followed by Apataki and Rangiroa. The whole trip would take 7 days! I think it is a great way to discover the more remote corners of French Polynesia. Most people coming from France (or elsewhere) to the Tuamotus visit at least one of the 3 classics: Fakarava, Rangiroa, or Tikehau. Very often, the itineraries and tourist spots are always the same. Leaving by catamaran for a week like this is a chance to get off the beaten path and discover places that are still almost unknown! On a Tuamotu yacht charter, you can also enjoy this type of excursion. The small difference is that we would be cruising for more days than originally planned, to really soak up local life. For personal reasons, I would not continue the trip all the way to Rangiroa…

As always, I remain entirely free in what I write, and throughout this long travel diary article, I will try to share my experience and how I felt during the week. I hope it gives you a real desire to come and try this adventure for yourself! Come on, let’s go for a week of vacation, all wrapped up in one article!

For those who are not familiar with atolls, they are, to put it simply, ancient volcanic islands around which coral developed. Over time, the volcanic island eroded and sank. The atoll stage is reached when the volcanic island (now located in the center of the atoll) has completely disappeared. All that remains is the coral reef, where sandy islets (called “motu”) have formed. By comparison, islands such as Maupiti or Bora Bora are known as “almost-atolls” because the old volcanic island is still present inside their lagoon. On atolls, there is always an “ocean” side, exposed to swell and wind, and a “lagoon” side, which is more sheltered and usually calmer. Most villages, guesthouses, and hotels are built on the lagoon side.

As one of the main benefits of this new Tuamotu base was to spend as much time as possible on the catamaran, we flew from Tahiti on a Tahiti -> Arutua -> Niau -> Fakarava route. The weather was beautiful in Tahiti, but unfortunately very overcast in “Faka” (for those in the know).

On arrival, we were told that the charter that was supposed to host us for the week was running a little late because of rough seas. Everyone took it in stride; it was not the end of the world. We met Stephanie and Aldric, who picked us up at the airport and took us to their home in Rotoava, the island’s village. After arriving in French Polynesia in 2005, they decided to settle in Fakarava a few years later, in 2013. They then opened a small boat services business: Fakarava Yacht Services. They are the people to contact if you need anything on the atoll: spare parts for your boat, laundry, bike rentals, internet access, and so on.

Aldric was kind enough to show us around the island’s main village, which is very pleasant even in bad weather. We even visited the highest point on the island, the Topaka lighthouse. Built with lime in 1957 in the north of the atoll, this lighthouse is about 15 meters high. It was used as a visual landmark for nearby boats and could once be lit by fire.

Our catamaran finally arrived at the end of the afternoon, just as night was falling, after 46 hours of sailing between Tahiti and Fakarava in crazy wind and sea conditions… Our team spent the night at Pension Paparara. I already knew the area, having spent one night there a few years earlier. It is a truly beautiful place, right by the water, with charming bungalows!

This slight setback also showed the value of having catamarans directly on site. I think it is really good news that 3 catamarans will soon be available in the Tuamotu. It saves time, which means more time to enjoy the islands. In any case, even if the weather was not on our side for the moment, we kept our spirits up, and I was still just as excited about finally leaving for a real week on a catamaran. It would be my first time!

Waking up on the second day made me think the weather might improve… It was still very cloudy, but less so than the day before, and we even had a beautiful rainbow over the lagoon, right in front of us at the guesthouse. Aldric took us to the atoll dock, where we met the team that had gone through yesterday’s nightmare at sea: Teiki, the skipper, and Mahana, the hostess, whom I already knew because I had gone to Tetiaroa with her.

We met everyone on board and settled into our cabins. I’m no boat expert, but the whole place seemed pretty cool to me, and very clean. There are 4 cabins on the catamaran in total, and we each had our own.

After a small meal at the dock, still under a very threatening sky, we set off across the lagoon toward the south of Faka. I have to say that such bad weather is really unusual at this time of year; in theory, June is often very pleasant. We sailed quietly toward the middle of the atoll, following a channel marked on the GPS. I also learned from Teiki, to my surprise, that the entire atoll is not actually mapped, so venturing outside the channel can be very dangerous. You could easily hit one of the many patch reefs rising just below the surface of the lagoon, which would be a pretty stupid way to start our first day…

In the evening, we moored at a magical-looking spot called Kakaiau, a kind of small indentation in the coral reef, like a hoa (a water passage between the lagoon and the ocean), but one that had filled in. Unfortunately, the weather was still very bad on this first day, but we were all happy to be there!

First wake-up on the catamaran: the night was good and very calm. We were now on the lagoon side, well sheltered by the motu next to us. After a good breakfast, we decided to explore the famous hoa where we had spent the night, even though the weather was still not on our side.

It was a little frustrating to have such cloudy weather because, even under the clouds, the spot looked beautiful. We spent a little time there taking photos and walking around in 50 cm of water.

The goal for the day? The famous South Pass of Fakarava! We slowly sailed down the lagoon side toward the south pass and arrived in the early afternoon. The overcast sky was still following us for the moment, but it did not stop us from exploring this little piece of paradise, lost almost a full day’s catamaran sail from the North Pass. When we arrived, the weather was almost apocalyptic. It was really dark, and given the height of the motu in this area, I could not imagine being there during a major hurricane.

We unloaded the zodiac (which can go almost anywhere) onto one of the small white-sand beaches of the main Polynesian motu. People come here for scuba diving and for the famous shark wall of the South Pass. If you are looking for a place that feels like the other side of the world, this is it. We were really very, very far from everything. We mostly met diving enthusiasts and a few sailors passing through.

Exploring the area was really enjoyable, and we spent a few hours wandering through this timeless little corner. Even though the weather was still not good, the place was beautiful. The water was crystal clear; I can’t even imagine what it must look like in sunshine. Blacktip sharks were everywhere along the beach! A little swim with them felt great (don’t worry, they are almost afraid of you).

Fakarava’s South Pass feels a bit like the end of the world: an ideal place for diving, discovering marine life, and why not spending a little time relaxing and snorkeling on the coral reef too?

We went to take a look at a monohull that had crashed onto the reef a few days before our arrival. Apparently, the skipper had tried to leave at night, which is obviously not recommended in a channel with current… After a quick visit to the rather charming local church, we were back on the catamaran by the end of the afternoon. We spent the night there, in this remote area, keeping our fingers crossed for better weather the next day!

Our dream came true! The sun rose at 6 am, and a beautiful soft light illuminated the motu near the south pass where we had spent the night. How good that sunshine felt! We enjoyed breakfast in the boat’s outdoor saloon, with the sun warming our backs…

7:30 am, time to leave. Today’s program was a full sail up Fakarava lagoon to the Otugi Pass, in the south of Toau Atoll. It was going to be a big day of sailing, but given the weather, it should be calm. We put the fishing rods in the water. It did not take long for the first trevally to bite. Lunch was already sorted!

We reached Fakarava’s North Pass at around 12:00 pm and crossed it without any trouble. The weather was still good, and during the sail we enjoyed a very good fish prepared by Mahana. Soon, the first motu of Toau Atoll appeared in the distance. I have to admit, this was the place I most wanted to see during this catamaran cruise in the Tuamotus. Almost nobody comes here, and the atoll is nearly uninhabited. In short, it really made me dream!

The early morning views in this idyllic setting are beautiful. The turquoise lagoon made me want to stay here for a few weeks. I’ll definitely come back!

We arrived at the infamous Otugi Pass, the same pass where the great navigator Laurent Bourgnon died while diving in June 2018. The crossing went fairly smoothly, even though this pass is known to be extremely dangerous because of its very strong current. As soon as we entered the lagoon, the magic happened: the current eased, and the sound of the waves gradually gave way to the deep calm of a lagoon that looked extraordinary. Superb shades of blue appeared between the patch reefs scattered across the lagoon. We had to move slowly and carefully under engine power, since the area is not mapped on the GPS. We navigated cautiously and spotted a place near a white-sand beach lined with coconut palms. It took several attempts and a few zigzags between coral reefs, some of them almost breaking the surface, to find the way to our mooring spot. I felt like saying we had stopped in paradise. There was nobody on the horizon: no boat, no house, no sound, NOTHING.

I went down with Federica, the Italian journalist traveling with me, for a swim underwater. Spending a short hour exploring the patch reefs with a mask, snorkel, and fins felt like a dream. The coral heads were beautiful, full of local marine life. Of course, we came across plenty of curious blacktip sharks. Clearly, they are not used to seeing many people here. I hurried to swim to the motu in front of us, just to be the first from the boat to set foot on land, as if it mattered!

I have to say that arriving on this motu, where probably only a handful of people pass during the year, filled me with an incredible feeling of joy. I savored this timeless moment, then swam back to the catamaran with the blacktips. The whole team then went to the same motu by zodiac to enjoy the late afternoon and, hopefully, a beautiful sunset.

I slipped away from the group for a photo session on the motu. For the first time since the beginning of the trip, I really enjoyed taking photos in this beautiful place. It was an excellent playground for the amateur photographer I am. On the white-sand beach, in the crystal-clear lagoon, in the hoa, and inside the motu itself, there were so many things to shoot.

Discovering these motu and their white-sand beaches is magical. Here, there is nobody: no tourists, no cruise ships, just us…

It was also my first chance since the beginning of the trip to fly my drone. I have to admit, the view from the sky was simply amazing, and it really showed the incredible setting of our mooring, between a maze of patch reefs and magical shades of blue. See for yourself.

Then sunset approached, and I spent the end of the afternoon enjoying the magnificent golden and pink colors the sky gave us. We returned to the catamaran by zodiac at nightfall. I think this was the most beautiful moment of the trip.

After the wonderful day we had just had, our energy was back! Early in the morning, I left by zodiac with Federica and Teiki to discover another beach at the end of the earth. The area was magical, even though the clouds looked very threatening. It was even wilder than the day before, and we really were alone in the world here. What a feeling. Unfortunately, the rain was coming back…

We left this little corner of paradise at the end of the morning to reach Anse Amyot, in the north of Toau Atoll. We were expected, so to speak, by Gaston and Valentine, the guardians of the place. Leaving the Otugi Pass with an incoming current and a strong headwind was quite impressive, and it was the first time I saw the catamaran move so much. Once we were out of the pass area, the sea calmed down a bit and we sailed upwind toward Toau Atoll. It was not the most enjoyable passage of the trip, but we managed…

We finally saw Anse Amyot around 2 pm. It is called a “cove” rather than a “pass” because, in reality, it is only a recess in the coral reef. You cannot go any farther by catamaran; it is basically a dead end! We arrived in beautiful sunshine, and once again, the area looked magical. A few huts and houses by the beach, turquoise water… that was about it. Of course, there were a few boats around, as the place is well known among sailors crossing the Pacific Ocean.

We walked around and discovered the place. A few souls, five when we passed through, live on this motu. Two guesthouses with basic bungalows, but in a superb setting, sit right on the beach. We were told they are often rented by sailors passing through. I spent the end of the afternoon wandering around the motu and enjoying the area, even though the weather became cloudy again…

Then, at aperitif time, we met Gaston and Valentine, a wonderful couple who live here all year round, in almost total autonomy. They plant, grow, fish, live with little, and you know what? They seem happier than most people… so maybe happiness comes down to something different from what we imagine! Together, we organized an improvised aperitif in a corner of their garden. We had a wonderful time talking and sharing, all accompanied by homemade rum and local drinks! Happiness is not that far away…

Early in the morning, we joined Gaston and Valentine at their place once again, this time for a Paumotu-style breakfast (Paumotu being the people of the Tuamotu archipelago). What was planned? Grilled trevally, caught in the cove only an hour earlier. Gaston clearly knows how to choose his fish because, honestly, it was one of the best I have ever tasted. Another lovely moment spent with them, and that is also what travel and French Polynesia are all about: meeting people. Because you can find white-sand beaches and coconut trees in many places around the world, but there is nothing quite like the kindness of Polynesians and these exchanges. I must admit that being able to come here, to a very little-visited atoll, for a week by catamaran makes this kind of encounter and interaction much easier. It is difficult to experience the same thing somewhere full of tourists…

We started the final cruise to Apataki Atoll, where we were expected. After a few hours of sailing, we arrived in Apataki in the rain. We could see the future base where the three Poe Charter catamarans would be moored, well sheltered. The mayor of the town, who supported the project, welcomed us warmly and took us to the town hall for a lovely welcome with songs, traditional dances, and music. We were then given explanations about the possible arrival of the new Apataki airport. At the time, this was the atoll’s main concern. Apataki did not have enough landing space for an Air Tahiti ATR; only small 10-seat aircraft could land here, which strongly affected the atoll’s development. Since then, Apataki has been listed with an airstrip, and Air Tahiti flights now appear to serve the atoll, so this part of the story has clearly evolved since the trip. We were keeping our fingers crossed for them, and we really hoped that Bruce’s project, as the manager of Poe Charter, would help move things in the right direction.

Unfortunately for us, the weather got worse and worse at the end of the day, and it was now pouring on the atoll. Everyone kept busy doing whatever they felt like on the catamaran, which was moored at the village quay. Tomorrow, we would leave to visit the atoll!

The sun made a timid appearance at 6:30 am. Federica and I left to walk around the main motu and get a feel for local life on the atoll. Needless to say, it was very peaceful. We then visited the small pearl farm located at the entrance to the pass. I already knew all the explanations, but it is always nice to walk around these improvised houses on the lagoon. About ten people work here. If you have the chance to visit one during your trip to Polynesia, go for it. It is really interesting.

We left the dock in bright sunshine and headed for the careening spot in Apataki. It clearly felt good for everyone to feel the warmth of the sun again. We had not been very lucky with the weather during the week and, more generally, at the time of writing this article (early July), I can say that May and June had been pretty awful… For me, it was the first time in 4 years that I had seen weather that bad during this period. Here is my article about the weather in Polynesia for your trip.

Anyway, for now the weather was good, and everything was fine. To reach the Apataki careening spot, we slowly sailed downwind on the lagoon side toward Motu Ruha Vahina, nicknamed the Apataki pito, meaning the “belly button” in Tahitian. Since our arrival, everyone had been telling us that “you haven’t really come to Apataki if you haven’t been to the pito.” After a beautiful, calm sail in the sunshine, which finally allowed me to finish my book (Sukkwan Island by David Dann), we spotted the famous motu. After a few minutes of searching for a safe mooring away from the patch reefs (in case the boat moved), there we were, discovering a place that looked beautiful. The water was crystal clear, and the sun was high in the sky: it felt pretty good to be there.

On site, we met people who lived there and told us the legend of the “pito.” We properly celebrated the place, then set off to explore for a little while, walking around the motu. The setting was superb, truly beautiful. I made the most of the opportunity to take a few photos and fly my drone for the second time on the trip. The views from above were amazing, and they really showed that we were in the middle of nowhere. See for yourself.

We returned to the boat to enjoy another excellent meal cooked by Mahana. Then we raised anchor for a few more hours of sailing, still in the lagoon and under the sun, heading toward my last spot of the trip. Unfortunately, I had to leave for Tahiti the next day, as I did not have enough time off to continue the journey to northern Apataki and Rangiroa.

The funny thing is that this was the first time I had seen something other than coconut trees sticking up from a motu. As a general rule, when you sail between atolls, the tops of the coconut trees are the first thing you see. As I approached, I suspected what it was: boat masts, rising high above the coconut trees. We really had arrived at the careening yard.

We anchored offshore and went ashore by zodiac to meet the people there: Tony, Pauline, the whole family, and the sailors passing through, each with a more improbable background than the last. If you think you have done something extraordinary by coming to Apataki, wait until you talk to them! There is a great atmosphere in this end-of-the-world place: a few houses on the motu, turquoise water, and honestly, we were not doing too badly. This place is actually quite well known locally as the only place in the Tuamotu where you can repair and haul out your boat. The whole team is there to help, and they have even opened a small business. Their reputation is very good, so don’t hesitate if you are nearby and need help!

We arrived at just the right time, since it was someone’s birthday too! So we all ate together on site around a huge table. Everyone started cooking. Federica and I took the opportunity to wander off to the end of the motu. It was the perfect hour, as golden as you could wish: the famous golden hour we so often talk about in photography. We spent a beautiful hour enjoying this splendid setting. On the ocean side, we found the boat of Gaston and Valentine (whom we had met on Toau), who were also passing through Apataki. There is a kind of small recess between the two motu in the area, allowing boats to pass behind and settle quietly in this little marina — the cutest in the world, don’t you think?

A beautiful photo session in the area left me feeling a little dreamy. We ended the evening with a sublime sunset on the edge of the lagoon, my last image of Apataki, and a wonderful one. Then we joined the rest of the group for the evening. We had a really great time: good food, a little alcohol for the party, and genuinely lovely people to talk to!

Wake-up at 6:00 am, and I was sad to leave. I joined Tony on the motu at 7 am. I was heading back with him in a potimarara, a kind of local boat. At the time, I could not fly from Apataki back to Tahiti, so I had to leave by boat for Arutua, 2 hours away from there with this speedboat.

I took the opportunity to say goodbye to the whole team and to the people we had spent the evening with. It had been a very good time. In the early morning, I really took in the place: sublime, like a swimming pool, not a wave, no wind, total calm. I boarded as planned, and we set off at full speed toward Apataki’s southern pass. We made a quick stop in the village, where I saw the future Poe Charter base at the dock for the first time, this time in beautiful weather. We left the southern channel and sailed along the atoll toward Arutua. Very quickly, we saw the atoll in the distance. An hour later, we entered through Arutua’s very small pass, in a superb setting. Bright sunshine, a small village built at the edge of the pass, and numerous pearl farms in the lagoon.

We sailed along the motu on the lagoon side, and it was still just as beautiful. One last turn through a turquoise pool brought us directly by boat to the airport. This was the end of the trip for me. One hour by plane to Tahiti, and I was back home. It was the first time I had spent such a long time on a boat, and I have to say I really enjoyed the experience. Even if the weather was not really on our side, the feeling of being able to sail freely between the atolls is wonderful. I already caught myself dreaming about a future charter with friends here in French Polynesia. Because yes, that is another great thing. You can absolutely consider renting the catamaran as a group, with family or friends, ideally with a skipper and a hostess, for a 1-week or 10-day trip.

In any case, I would like to thank Poe Charter and Tahiti Tourisme for this trip. The experience was superb, and I am ready for a second catamaran cruise in the Tuamotus! Apart from the weather, which we depend on after all, everything was perfect, and I really recommend trying the experience with Poe Charter if you come to French Polynesia and want to get away from the classic tourist routes.

Practical summary of the trip:

• Departure from Fakarava (with the possibility of adapting the route to Rangiroa or elsewhere),
• Customizable catamaran trips also available (on request)
• Price for a 7-day cruise / 6 people, all included (skipper, hostess, gas, meals, free activities): 8190€, or:
  • 1170€ per day for the full catamaran, or
  • 195€ per person/day, all included.
• Possibility to rent a catamaran for a week without a skipper from Apataki: 2800€ per week

Between us, I really think the experience is worth the trip, and it also lets you see Polynesia in a very different way from the classic flight + hotel combination. It is a very different kind of journey, and I truly enjoyed it. Price-wise, for those wondering, it is very good value for money. If you were planning to come here, take inter-island flights with passes, choose a full-board hotel for 6 people, and rent a car to get around the islands, it would ultimately cost you much more…

Well done to those of you who had the courage to reach the end of this very long travel diary about my week to visit the Tuamotu archipelago. So, did you enjoy it? Did it make you want to spend a whole week cruising on a catamaran in the Tuamotus now? Leave me a little comment and tell me what you think! It always makes me extremely happy to know that you made it to the end and to hear your thoughts. If you want to keep dreaming of white sand, coconut trees, and turquoise lagoons, I invite you to read our article about our week on Kauehi Atoll.

See you soon,

Sylvain

Written by Sylvain PONS

From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.

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