The Marquesas Islands: an overview of a magical archipelago

I’ll admit it: since we left French Polynesia in September 2021, I’ve found it harder and harder to write about these paradise islands where we spent more than six years in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. And yet, even after publishing more than sixty articles about French Polynesia, there is still plenty to say on the blog. In this article, I wanted to introduce you to the Marquesas Islands and give you a broad overview of the archipelago. For the record, the Marquesas Islands were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2024.

When we lived in French Polynesia, I had the chance to visit this archipelago several times, both for work and for personal trips. And I have to say that, along with the Gambier Archipelago and the magnificent island of Mangareva, it is the part of French Polynesia I love most. It is the one that attracts me the most, the one that feels most authentic, and, in my humble opinion, the one you can truly fall in love with. Why do you think Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel are buried there?

I’m using my flight to the Yukon in Canada to rewrite an article about Polynesia. In any case, I hope this overview will inspire you to discover these islands at the end of the world, which are still too often left out of the classic itineraries followed by travelers visiting Polynesia for the first time. I’ve tried to answer the main questions you might have about the Marquesas Islands and to share my opinions, information and advice about this magnificent archipelago.

Let’s start with the basics, because this is usually the first question to ask. Most travelers visiting the territory know Tahiti, where you arrive anyway, and of course Bora Bora, the famous Pearl of the Pacific. When you think of French Polynesia, the first words that probably come to mind are “tropical island, lush vegetation, white-sand beach, turquoise lagoon, colorful fish, scuba diving, overwater bungalows,” and so on. And you would be right, because that is what French Polynesia is best known for. But there is so much more to the territory. Admittedly, you may not see it on a first classic trip to the Fenua, but a second stay, or simply a longer trip of three weeks or a month, can give you time to discover the Marquesas Archipelago.

I also realize that the answer to “why go to the Marquesas?” is deeply personal. Since I can’t give you a magic answer, I’ll simply give you my own view. As I often say, the farther you get from Tahiti, the more you discover what I personally like to call the “real French Polynesia”: the one closest to the Polynesia of the past, where life felt good and where there wasn’t a McDonald’s on every corner. So what are the Marquesas like? They feel like lost islands, thousands of kilometers from Tahiti, out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Islands with a tropical climate that may seem harsh, remote and inhospitable at first glance, with sharp mountain peaks and immense relief.

So let me stop you right there: you don’t come to the Marquesas to “do things” or tick off activities the way you might in Moorea or Bora Bora. You go there for an experience, for a break from our developed, urbanized daily lives. In fact, I find the Marquesas deeply good for the mind and spirit. The islands are sparsely populated, peaceful and calm. For me, that is the whole point. Every time I went to the Marquesas, even when I was living in Tahiti, it felt like a wonderful escape, a beautiful pause.

If I had to sum up the Marquesas, I would say you go there to feel the power of the land in French Polynesia, the famous Polynesian “mana.” You’ll discover a rich and deep culture, especially through the many archaeological sites, or pae pae, that can be explored across the Marquesas islands. You can also enjoy superb hiking, horseback riding or even mountain biking with a guide along the many trails that cross the different parts of the islands. Take the time to talk with the Marquesans, who are generally very friendly and happy to help, share a story, tell you an anecdote or pass on a tale from the past.

Personally, I prefer the atmosphere, and even the landscapes, of the Marquesas to the classic “Tahiti, Bora Bora, Moorea, Rangiroa” route. But again, that is a very personal opinion, perhaps influenced by the fact that we had seen “too many” postcard-perfect white-sand-and-coconut-palm landscapes. In the end, the landscapes, culture and authenticity of the Marquesas speak to me more. Let me know what you think, okay?

This is the other question that comes up most often, but it is actually quite simple to answer. Unless you are arriving by boat from South America or as part of a round-the-world trip, you have almost no choice but to fly from Tahiti to the Marquesas. Tahiti, the main island, remains the gateway to French Polynesia and the island where you will arrive from France, the United States, Canada and many other places.

From Tahiti, as far as I know and at the time of writing, the main way to get to the Marquesas Islands by boat is still the Aranui 5 cruise, which departs from Tahiti, crosses the Tuamotus and takes you to the Marquesas. The current classic itinerary is generally a 12-day, 11-night cruise. We’ve never had the chance to do it, but the feedback we’ve received has been excellent, even if it gives you only a first glimpse of the islands.

Apart from this cruise, many of you will probably consider flying from Tahiti, either with Air Tahiti or Air Moana, which serve the main Marquesas islands such as Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa. As a practical reference, expect roughly around 100,000 XPF for a return flight to one of the main Marquesas islands, depending on the island, season, airline and route, which is clearly not cheap. Compare carefully before booking. The advantage of choosing Air Tahiti is that they offer Marquesas Passes. I won’t go into detail here, as there is a separate article about Air Tahiti Passes. In short, the passes can be interesting if, for example, you want to visit the two main islands of the Marquesas. If you are also visiting other Polynesian islands, which seems fairly obvious, you may want to look at the Marquesas Extension instead.

If you’re planning your trip, we’ve written a full article on whether or not you should use a travel agent for your trip to Polynesia. Feel free to read it and make up your own mind.

Please note that there is also an article on our blog dedicated entirely to traveling to and within the Marquesas Islands.

I know this is a question many people ask. I won’t go into too much detail here, but keep in mind that the Marquesas Archipelago lies about 1,500 km north of Tahiti. The minimum flight time to the main islands is currently around 3h15, although it can be longer depending on stopovers and the route. You are also more than 6,500 km west of South America and 7,000 km east of Australia, with a 30-minute time difference from Tahiti. In the middle of nowhere, or almost.

Why not visit them all? I’m only half joking, because I’ve been to five of the six inhabited islands. I’m not going to repeat everything I’ve already written in the articles dedicated to each island, especially since I only have three full articles so far. But here is a quick overview of the Marquesas.

The Marquesas are usually divided into the North Marquesas, with Nuku Hiva, Ua Huka and Ua Pou, and the South Marquesas, with Hiva Oa, Tahuata and Fatu Hiva.

Along with Nuku Hiva, this is the best-known and probably one of the most visited islands in the Marquesas. Known especially for the graves of Brel and Gauguin in the Atuona cemetery, it is also the island I know best, as I have been there many times. Personally, it is an island I love, as I do all the others. You’ll enjoy walking through the narrow streets of Atuona, the island’s main village, a small community of just over 2,000 people.

Away from the main village, rent a car or take a guide for a day or two to explore the villages scattered around the island: Taaoa, with its beautiful church; Hanaiapa, with its magnificent white-sand beach, Hanatekuua; Hanaapaaoa; and the two small bays of Motuua and Nahoe, which are also pleasant for swimming. Finally, make your way to Puamau, at the eastern tip of the island, which really feels like the end of the world. Along the way, don’t forget to stop at the many archaeological sites, go horseback riding in Atuona, and hike in the surrounding area.

As a bonus, plan a day trip with a local operator to explore the island of Tahuata.

You can easily spend four to five days there without getting bored.

Read our full article on Hiva Oa

This is the main island of the Marquesas and home to the administrative capital, Taiohae. I’ve spent a week on this Polynesian island twice, so I know it a little less well than Hiva Oa. In my eyes, the island is just as beautiful and, in many ways, truly majestic. The road alone from the Terre Déserte airport in the northwest of the island to Taiohae, which takes about 1h30, is magnificent, with impressive scenery. The main town is not as easy to explore on foot, because it is spread out around the bay, but it is still worth spending a few hours there.

Then, as with Hiva Oa, I recommend renting a 4×4 and exploring the island’s hidden corners. With a guide, you’ll learn much more about the culture, history and rich past of the Marquesas. The island’s villages are also beautiful and well worth a visit. Taipivai Bay is magnificent and home to many archaeological sites. The village of Hatiheu is also remarkable, set at the foot of an impressive rugged landscape. Continue the walk to Anaho Bay, which is also magnificent. The more motivated can keep going to other deserted beaches, with no tourists, of course.

Take the time to stop at pae pae, hike around a few corners and discover some beautiful waterfalls. In short, enjoy yourself. As with Hiva Oa, you’ll need four to five days to get a good overview of the island.

Discover Nuku Hiva in our full article

Here is an island that is less well known and much less accessible than the first two. In fact, only small planes connect Nuku Hiva to this famous island, which has a short runway that ends almost at a right angle to a mountain. Scary stuff, haha.

Ua Pou is a very special island for me. It is much smaller than Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa, but just as beautiful in a completely different way. Every time I’ve been there, it has been much drier. What strikes you most when you arrive in the main village of Hakahau is the presence of these magnificent phonolite peaks, rising as if they had been set into the back of the bay, overlooking the surroundings and giving the place a wonderful atmosphere. Ua Pou is definitely worth visiting, and you’ll need to spend a day on each side of the island to discover the isolated villages on both coasts. A 4×4 is essential given the state of the roads, which were in pretty poor condition when I visited. Perhaps they will improve over time!

Also on the agenda for your stay: don’t miss a visit to “Chez Manfred,” who makes excellent chocolate that you can buy locally; go swimming in Baie des Requins, a beautiful white-sand beach; don’t be scared, they’re friendly! And take at least a day to hike at the foot of the mountains in the center of the island. Magical. Finally, don’t forget to look for the famous flower stones on Hohoi Beach.

Discover Ua Pou in our article

Here is another special island that few people visit. The only way to get there is by boat, usually from the neighboring island of Hiva Oa. It all depends on what you want to do and how much time you have. The easiest option, and the one many people choose, is to take a day trip from Hiva Oa with your guesthouse or a local operator and spend the day exploring Tahuata. The itinerary is usually similar: visit the main village of Vaitahu and Hapatoni, stop at craft centers to see local creations made from bone, coral, wood carvings and more, then head to a beautiful beach in the northwest of the island for a local meal, dancing, coconut husking and other small demonstrations. All in all, it is a great day out and not to be missed if you are visiting Hiva Oa.

If Tahuata is already a little-visited island, what can we say about Fatu Hiva, which is probably one of the most isolated islands in the territory, apart from a few Tuamotu atolls? Fatu Hiva is more than four hours by boat from Hiva Oa, and believe me, those four hours at sea can be pretty rough depending on the conditions. There are no coral reefs to protect you. You are in the open ocean, and the two times I went there, the sea was quite rough. But of course, it depends on how well you handle it.

Arriving by boat in Baie des Vierges, originally called “Baie des Verges” because of the characteristic shape of the rocks, is impressive and unforgettable. The place feels unreal, so isolated from everything and from the so-called civilized world that you feel like escaping when you reach a place like this. You don’t really come to Fatu Hiva by chance, unless you have chosen to and truly wanted to. You come for the experience, to live it fully, and to discover two small isolated villages: Omoa and Hanavave. There is nothing “special” to do, except enjoy the place, talk with people and take in the scenery.

This is the only island I wasn’t able to discover during my six years in French Polynesia. The feedback I’ve had from close acquaintances and friends who did have the chance to go has been very positive. It is a very small island with three main villages to discover: Hane, Vaipaee and Hokatu. From what I’ve heard, you can go horseback riding on the island, hike in the highlands and around the island’s craters, visit the Museum of the Sea and the House of Petroglyphs, and discover archaeological sites.

As is often the case, it depends on you, your wishes and your budget. Based on the feedback we’ve received by email and what we often recommend to people who ask us, I would suggest spending ten days on the two main islands, Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa. The other islands are also worth visiting, but they require more effort and organization. Five days on each island seems like the ideal amount of time to make the most of them.

Then, if you want to explore the other islands, you can plan on spending two to three days on each island, easily and without getting bored.

I’ll end with a practical question that comes up often: how do you get around between the islands? It may interest only a handful of travelers, because as I said, most people will discover the Marquesas either with the Aranui or with an Air Tahiti Pass or Marquesas Extension, which will usually limit them to Hiva Oa and Nuku Hiva.

For the few adventurers who want to explore the other islands, there are municipal boat shuttles, one in the north and one in the south. This means you can travel by boat between Nuku Hiva, Ua Huka and Ua Pou in the north, and between Hiva Oa, Tahuata and Fatu Hiva in the south. It is an inexpensive and enjoyable way to meet locals and have a great experience. However, I strongly advise you to make sure the shuttle is running when you want to take it and to check the schedule, as everything can vary. Our article on getting around the Marquesas explains it all.

I’m reaching the end of this more general article about the Marquesas Islands, which I had been meaning to write for a long time and am finally finishing. I realize that time is precious in our daily lives, so I’m going to finish this article on the plane to Vancouver, which is perfect.

See you soon.

Written by Sylvain PONS

From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.

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