The Marquesas Islands, an overview of a magical archipelago

I’ll admit it, since we left French Polynesia in September 2021, it’s obvious that I find it more and more “difficult” to write about these paradise islands where we spent more than six years in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. However, even after writing more than sixty articles about the French Polynesian territory, there are still things to write about on our blog, and in this article I wanted to introduce you to the Marquesas Islands. To give you an overview. For the record, the Marquesas Islands were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2024.

When we lived in French Polynesia, it’s an archipelago that I had the opportunity to visit on several occasions, both professionally and personally, and I have to say that, along with the Gambier Archipelago (and the magnificent island of Mangareva), it’s the archipelago that I appreciate the most in French Polynesia, the one that attracts me the most, the most authentic and, in my humble opinion, the one that you can literally fall in love with. Why do you think Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel are buried there?

I’m taking advantage of my flight to the Yukon (Canada) to rewrite an article on Polynesia. In any case, I hope to inspire you to discover these islands at the end of the world, which are too seldom visited by the classic itineraries of tourists who come to discover Polynesia for the first time. I’ve asked myself all the questions you’d like to have answered about the Marquesas Islands and I’d like to share with you my opinions, information and advice on this magnificent archipelago.

Let’s start with the basics, because that’s the first question to ask. All tourists who visit the territory are familiar with the island of Tahiti (where you arrive anyway) and the famous Pearl of the Pacific, the island of Bora Bora. When you think of French Polynesia, the first words that probably come to mind are “tropical island, lush vegetation, white sand beach, turquoise lagoon, multicolored fish, scuba diving, overwater bungalows, etc.”. And you’d be right, because that’s what French Polynesia is best known for. But there’s so much more to French Polynesia. Admittedly, you may not see it at first glance when you visit the “classics of the first stay in Fenua”, but a second stay, or failing that, a longer stay of three weeks or a month would allow you to discover the Marquesas Archipelago.

I also realize that the answer to the question of why you should decide to go to the Marquesas is really very personal. But since I can’t give you a magic answer, I’ll give you my personal opinion on the subject. As I often say, the further you get from Tahiti, the more you will discover the “real French Polynesia”, as I personally like to call it, the one that is closest to the French Polynesia of yesteryear, where life was good, where there wasn’t a McDonald’s on every corner… So what are the Marquesas like? Like lost islands, thousands of kilometers from Tahiti, lost in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, islands with a tropical climate that at first glance seems inhospitable, harsh, remote, with sharp mountain peaks and immense relief…

So let me stop you right there: you don’t come to the Marquesas to “do things” or “do activities” like you might in Moorea or Bora Bora. We go there for an experience, a break from our developed, urbanized daily lives. In fact, the Marquesas are great for the mind and spirit. The islands are sparsely populated, peaceful and tranquil. That’s what it’s all about for me. Every time I went to the Marquesas, even when I lived in Tahiti, it was always a wonderful escape, a beautiful parenthesis.

If I had to sum up the Marquesas, I’d say you have to go there to feel the power of the land in French Polynesia, the famous “mana” of the Polynesians. You’ll discover a rich and profound culture, thanks to the many archaeological sites (Pae Pae) that you can explore on all the Marquesas islands. You can also enjoy superb hiking, horseback riding, or even mountain biking with a guide along the many trails that crisscross the different parts of the islands. Take the time to chat with the Marquesans, who are generally very friendly and willing to help you, tell you a story, an anecdote, a tale from the past, etc.

Personally, I prefer the atmosphere and even the landscapes of the Marquesas to the classic “Tahiti, Bora, Moorea, Rangiroa”. But then again, that’s a very personal opinion, perhaps influenced by the fact that we’ve seen “too many” postcard/white-sand-coconut areas, and in the end, the landscapes, culture and authenticity of the Marquesas appeal to me more. Let me know what you think, eh?

This is the other question that comes up most often, but it’s actually quite simple to answer. Unless you’re coming by boat from South America or on a round-the-world trip (from anywhere else), you have (almost) no choice but to fly from Tahiti to the Marquesas. Tahiti, the main island, remains the only gateway to French Polynesia and the island from which you will arrive from any destination: France, the United States, Canada and others.

From Tahiti, as far as I know and at the time of writing (September 2024), the only way to get to the Marquesas Islands by boat is to take the Aranui 5 cruise, which starts in Tahiti, crosses the Tuamotus and takes you to the six Marquesas Islands, all in about 10/12 days. We’ve never had the chance to do this, but the feedback we’ve gotten is really great, even if it only gives you a glimpse of the islands.

With the exception of this cruise, many of you will consider flying from Tahiti, either with Air Tahiti or Moana Air, which offers several flights a week to the tropical islands of Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa. Flights to Nuku Hiva are currently 10-15% cheaper with Moana Air (they do not currently fly to Hiva Oa). Expect to pay between €320 and €420 for a flight to the Marquesas, which is clearly not cheap. Note that the advantage of choosing Air Tahiti is that they offer Marquesas Passes. I won’t go into detail here, as there is a separate article about Air Tahiti Passes. But basically, the passes are interesting if, for example, you want to visit the two main islands of the Marquesas, knowing that if you visit other Polynesian islands (which seems like a no-brainer), you might want to consider a “Marquesas Extension” instead.

If you’re in the process of planning your trip, we’ve written a full article on whether or not you should use a travel agent for your trip to Polynesia. Feel free to read the full article and make up your own mind.

Please note that there is an article on our blog dedicated entirely to traveling to and within the Marquesas Islands.

I know this is a question many people ask. I won’t go into too much detail here, but keep in mind that the Marquesas Archipelago is about 1,500 km north of Tahiti, a four-hour flight (by small plane, of course!). We’re also more than 6,500 km west of South America and 7,000 km east of Australia. In the middle of nowhere (or almost nowhere).

Why not visit them all? I’m only half kidding, because I’ve been to five of the six inhabited islands. I’m not going to repeat everything I’ve already written in the articles dedicated to each island, considering that I only have three entire articles. But here’s a brief overview of the Marquesas.

The Marquesas are generally divided into the North Marquesas (Nuku Hiva, Ua Huka, Ua Pou) and the South Marquesas (Hiva Oa, Tahuata, Fatu Hiva).

Along with Nuku Hiva, this is the best known and certainly the most visited (?) island in the Marquesas. Known especially for the graves of Brel and Gauguin in the Atuona cemetery, this is the island I know best, having been there many times. Personally, it’s an island I adore (like all the others). You’ll have a great time strolling through the narrow streets of Atuona, the island’s capital, a small community of just over 2,000 people.

Away from the main town, rent a car or take a guide for a day or two to explore the villages scattered around the island: Taaoa (with its beautiful church), Hanaiapa (with its magnificent white sand beach, Hanatekuua), Hanaapaaoa, the two small bays of Motuua and Nahoe (also good for swimming). Finally, make your way to Puamau, at the eastern tip of the island, which feels like the end of the world. Along the way, don’t forget to stop at the many archaeological sites, go horseback riding at Atuona, and hike in the surrounding area.

As an added bonus, plan a day trip with a tour operator to explore the island of Tahuata.

You can easily spend four to five days there without getting bored.

Our article dedicated to the island of Hiva Oa

This is the main island, home to the administrative capital, the town of Taiohae. I’ve been to this Polynesian island two times for a week, so I know a little less about it than I do about Hiva Oa. To my eyes, the island is just as beautiful and in many ways truly majestic. The road alone from the airport “Terre Déserte” in the northwest of the island to Taiohae is magnificent, with breathtaking scenery. The main town is less easy to explore on foot, as it’s spread out across the bay, but it’s well worth a few hours.

Then, as with Hiva Oa, I recommend renting a 4×4 and exploring the nooks and crannies of the island. With a guide, you’ll learn much more about the culture, history and rich past of the Marquesas. The island’s villages are also beautiful and well worth a visit. Taipivai Bay is magnificent and home to many archaeological sites. The village of Hatiheu is also remarkable, set at the foot of an impressive rugged landscape. Continue your hike to Anaho Bay, which is also magnificent. You can continue to other deserted beaches, without tourists of course, for the more motivated…

Take the time to stop at Pae Pae, hike around some corners and discover some beautiful waterfalls. In short, have a good time! As with Hiva Oa, you’ll need four to five days to get a good overview of the island.

Discover Nuku Hiva with our full article!

Here’s an island that is less well known and much less accessible than the first two. In fact, only small planes fly from Nuku Hiva to this famous island, which has the peculiarity of having a short runway that ends at a right angle to a mountain. Scary stuff, haha.

Ua Pou is a very special island for me, much smaller than Nuku Hiva/Hiva Oa, but just as beautiful, in a different style (every time I’ve been there it’s been much drier). What strikes you most when you arrive at the main village of Hakahau is the presence of these magnificent phonolite mountains, as if they were set into the bottom of the bay, overlooking the surrounding area and giving the place a magnificent ambience. Ua Pou is definitely worth a visit, and you’ll need to spend a day on each side of the island to discover the isolated villages on both coasts. A 4×4 is essential given the state of the roads, which were in pretty bad shape when I visited. Perhaps they will improve with time!

Also on the agenda for your stay, don’t miss a visit to “Chez Manfred” who makes excellent chocolate (which you can buy locally), go swimming in Baie des Requins (beautiful white sandy beach – don’t be scared, they’re friendly!), and take at least a day to hike at the foot of the moutains in the center of the island – magical! Finally, don’t forget to pick up the famous flowering pebbles on Hohoi beach!

Discover Ua Pou in our article!

Here’s another special island that few people visit. The only way to get there is by boat, usually from the neighboring island of Hiva Oa. It all depends on what you want to do and how much time you have. The easiest way, and what many people choose, is to take a day trip from Hiva Oa with your guesthouse or a service provider and spend the day exploring Tahuata. Generally, the itinerary is always the same: explore the main village (Vaitahu) and Hapatoni, stop at craft centers to see local creations made from bone, coral, wood carvings, and so on. Then off to a beautiful beach in the northwest of the island to enjoy a local meal, dance, coconut peeling and more. All in all, a great day out not to be missed if you’re visiting Hiva Oa.

If Tahuata Island is clearly a little visited island, what can we say about Fatu Hiva, which is probably one of the most isolated islands in the territory (with the exception of a few Tuamotu atolls). Fatu Hiva is over four hours by boat from Hiva Oa, and believe me, those four hours at sea can be pretty rough, depending on the conditions. There are no coral reefs to protect you, we’re in the open sea and the two times I’ve been there it’s been pretty rough, but it all depends on how you handle it.

Arriving by boat in Baie des Vierges (originally called “Baie des Verges” – because of the characteristic shapes of the rocks) is impressive and an unforgettable experience. The place is unreal, so isolated from everything and the civilized world that you feel like running away when you come to places like this. You don’t really come to Fatu Hiva by chance, unless you have decided and wanted to. You come for the experience, to live the experience and to discover two small isolated villages, Omoa and Hanavave. There’s nothing “special” to do except enjoy the place, chat and enjoy the scenery!

This is the only island I haven’t been able to discover in my six years in French Polynesia. Feedback from close acquaintances/friends who have had the opportunity is good. It’s a very small island with three main villages to discover (Hane, Vaipaee and Hokatu). According to the feedback I’ve had, you can go horseback riding on the island, hike in the highlands and on the island’s craters, visit the Museum of the Sea and the House of Petroglyphs, or even discover archaeological sites!

As is often the case, it depends on you, your desires and your budget. Based on the feedback we’ve received via email and what we often recommend to people who ask us, we recommend spending ten days on the two main islands, Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa. The other islands are also worth a visit, but require more effort and organization. Five days on each island seems to be the ideal time to get the most out of them.

Then, if you want to explore the other islands, you can plan on spending two to three days on each island, with no worries and no boredom!

I’ll end with a practical question that is often asked: how do you get around between the islands? It’s a question that may interest only a handful of tourists because, as I said, the majority will discover the Marquesas with the Aranui or with an Air Tahiti Pass/Extension Marquesas, which will limit you to Hiva Oa and Nuku Hiva.

For the few adventurers who want to explore the other islands, there are municipal boat shuttles, one to the north and one to the south. So you can travel by boat between Nuku Hiva and Ua Huka and Ua Pou (in the north) and between Hiva Oa, Tahuata and Fatu Hiva (in the south). It’s an inexpensive, fun way to meet the locals and have a great experience! However, I’d advise you to make sure the shuttle is running when you want to take it and to check the schedule, as everything can vary. Our article on getting around the Marquesas explains it all!

I’m coming to the end of this more general article about the Marquesas Islands, which I’ve been meaning to write for a long time, and which I’m finally finishing. I realize that time is of the essence in our daily lives, so I’m going to finish this article on the plane to Vancouver, which is perfect!

See you soon then.

Written by Sylvain PONS

From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.

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