Hiva Oa Island, what to do there?

The Marquesas, “the Land of Men”. For many, this name is known thanks to the French singer Jacques Brel and the painter Paul Gauguin. However, in reality, there are few people who even know how to locate the archipelago on a map! The Marquesas are part of the mysterious places lost somewhere in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Scientists are almost certain that the Marquesas could be the place of origin for some of the first civilizations in Oceania, and more specifically of Easter Island. In this article, I inform you of the different things to do in Hiva Oa, the island that for years hosted the renowned two characters mentioned above.

For some geographical context, the Marquesas is one of the five archipelagos of French Polynesia, located more than 1600 Km north of Tahiti, in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean. The island of Hiva Oa is located in the Southern Marquesas Islands, with the island of Tahuata and the island of Fatu Hiva. The island is a Polynesian volcanic island that I have had the opportunity to visit several times, both for personal and professional reasons. Moreover, if you are traveling with your family, visiting French Polynesia with a baby is child’s play! For all those in search of authenticity, of the “Polynesian dream”, it is in my opinion the perfect island. It is indeed paradisiacal, if you take the trouble to discover it. Going for vacations or for honeymoon to Hiva Oa is a real immersion in the Polynesian culture. For those looking for blue turquoise lagoons, crystal-clear Polynesian waters, snorkeling, bungalows on stilts, coral reefs, it is better to choose the Tuamotus or the Leeward Islands.

For fans of the Marquesas islands, I invite you to discover the island of Ua Pou, in the Northern Marquesas.

If you’d like to learn more about the other islands and get an overview of the area, I invite you to read our Marquesas summary guide, a great overview!

You reach Atuona, the capital of Hiva Oa Island, after 30 minutes of driving from the airport. You get to enjoy the breathtaking view of the bay upon arrival. About 2000 people live peacefully in this town that seems like a village. Everything can be done more or less by foot and you will never be too far from the center of the town. Take the time to stroll through the village and admire the amazing and breathtaking view from the foot of the highest point on the French polynesian island, the magnificent Mount Temetiu (1213 m).

Of all the things to do in Hiva Oa, many come here to visit the graves of Brel and Gauguin, at the municipal cemetery. You just need to go for a walk and access it by walking along a road that starts just after the gendarmerie (it is indicated). Jacques Brel is buried in the marine cemetery and he was very well known locally for having helped build the airfield at the time… It was from here that he had the “Jojo” take off!

In the meantime, you can enjoy the discovery of the old pre-European cemetery (Teivitete), where the remains of the old tombs can still be found. Everything is quite well preserved given the age. Access to this cemetery is by walking along the main river of the village. You will see the cemetery on your left, follow the signs and admire the great view of the bay.

You can visit the cultural center in the town centre. Located in the heart of Atuona, this cultural center pays tribute to the lives of Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel. The first building displays reproductions of his works, correspondence and photographs, while the second displays artefacts related to the singer’s life, including his famous red “Jojo” aeroplane. A must for visitors to Hiva Oa, the centre also sells books, lithographs and videos. Enthusiasts of these two iconic figures will find a unique atmosphere charged with symbolism during their visit.

Atuona, the capital city, remains the starting point for your visits on the Pacific island.

We would also like to mention two other remarkable sites near Atuona.

• Tehueto Petroglyphs: A petroglyph site accessible from Tahauku Bay up the Faakua River. There are several anthropomorphic silhouettes.
• The Smiling Tiki: A rather unique site, located in a clearing, with a (rare) smiling tiki. You can ask to be taken to this site from your accommodation, for example.

We continue the walk by moving to the village of Taaoa, further west. It is preferable to rent a car in Hiva Oa for a few days to be able to move around the island in autonomy (see this with your pension). Take the opportunity to stop along the road to admire the breathtaking view of Atuona.

15 minutes by car from Atuona, the village of Taaoa is stuck at the foot of an impressive cliff. The main thing to do in the village is the visit of the famous Paepae “Upeke”, an archaeological site. The latter, which is the Tahitian equivalent of the Marae, are archaeological remains of ancient settlements on the island, which could have been areas of habitat, meeting or gathering.

After you have paid the 300 francs entrance fee to the artisanal fare (used for the maintenance of the site), take the time to discover this site where the scale of the life spent in these places is significant. Ideally, you can ask at the pension for a guide for a more precise explanation of the site.

After the walk around the site, it’s definitively worth a visit to the village church, made of stones and wood during your vacations.

After visiting the polynesians villages of Atuona and Taaoa, take the road that leads up to the north of the island. It’s definitely one of the things to do in Hiva Oa. Ask at the guesthouse where you sleep to rent a 4×4 which is mandatory to discover the north of the tropical island, including the villages of Hanaiapa, Hanapaoa, and the village at the end of the island, Puamau.

I advise to do the whole thing over 2 days because the road is long and bumpy. It is preferable to visit Hanaiapa initially in the morning or afternoon and come back the next day to visit the other villages and the tip of the island.

The road to Puamau is really beautiful and you will enjoy the cliffs jutting over the sea, the lush vegetation and the blue sea as far as the eye can see.

As you will read these few lines, the road to Puamau had been entirely asphalted since I was there and that you could go there without any worries with a small car (no 4×4 needed anymore).

Over a day, discover the flowered valley of Hanaiapa, located about 20 km from Atuona (about an hour’s drive, a little more with photo stops). The latter has a certain charm, especially with these few houses lost at the end of the valley, not far from the small white sandy beach of the village (a nice walk to do).

The visit of the valley allows access to one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, Hanatekehua Beach, about an hour’s walk from the Hanaipa Valley. This superb white sandy beach is one of the must see on the island!

This valley is about an hour’s drive from Atuona on the road to the village of Puamau. Ask your pension to explain where to find a map of the island because access to the valley, which is not indicated, can be easily missed.

A dirt broken road at first allows access to this valley. Drive slowly. Upon arrival in the valley, you will see a very small valley nestled at the foot of the mountains. The latter is particularly well-known for its honey that you can buy by asking the residents of the village (if it is the season!).

A visit to the Paepae of Moeone with the presence of the crowned stone Tiki at its summit is worth a visit. There are no signs here to indicate you, so ask the locals.

When you travel up from the Hanapaooa valley, continue along the road towards the village of Puamau (so to speak as there is no sign). You get to drive along the edge of a cliff on a superb road. On the way you will cross the two small valleys of Motuua (first) and Nahoe (second). From the road, you get amazing views of these valleys.

There is nothing special to do here so you just get to enjoy the place with a walk on the beach. I also recommend a small meal break on the great sand beach beach of Nahoe, where it is easy to swim for a relax and tranquil time.

Here, we are at the end of the road and at the far east of the tropical island. A superb and breathtaking view of the village can be observed from the top of the pass leading to it. It will take at least a 2h30/3h drive from Atuona, and maybe more if you are not used to driving a 4×4 on a rough road and want to stop and take pictures en route. Also make sure you know the weather forecast for the day beforehand as the road is known to be dangerous and slippery.

Once in the spot, a visit to the Paepae of IIpona is a must. The site is not free of charge due to maintenance fees; there is a sign that indicates this at the entrance of the village. Take the time to stroll around this old site and enjoy the surroundings.

Then you can end-up your afternoon by the sea and enjoy the black sandy beach of the village to swim around in front of this splendid polynesian landscape.

The Marquesas are also famous for their wild horses, which can be found all over the paradise island. This is one of the things you can do on Hiva Oa. Of course, this activity is also available in the Australes archipelago, but the experience and atmosphere is even better here, in the heart of this exotic and remote environment. Please note that the Hameau Ranch (Chez Paco) has closed as the owners have retired. No one has yet taken over the business. As far as we know, Jérémie is now the only operator available.

Jérémie offers exceptional walks around Atuona by prior arrangement. Longer excursions of a day or more are also possible. Price details can be discussed directly with him via Facebook or by calling (+689) 40 92 73 80 / 87 75 05 99, from 5,000 xpf per person.

I have to tell you about this one seeing as I didn’t know about it until I went there last time. You don’t find these kinds of recommendations in a guide! You can rent a small local boat (“bonitier”) or a speedboat from several people in the village to get there. We rented one for the day (25000 fr or about 200€) with the bonitier Léo Rohi. Ask your pension, they know about it.

The trip is really worth the detour and there are almost no tourists that attempt the adventure. It is not openly advertised as far as I know. But it’s clearly a day worth a visit.

You will leave in the early morning and follow the west and north coast of Hiva Oa, getting amazing views of the cliffs and some lost valleys, now uninhabited. After one hour of navigation the two bays come into view. You first see the great Tanaeka Bay with its white sandy beach and then Hanamenu Bay.

You won’t have anything special to do on this daytrip, except to enjoy the two valleys. Remains of dwellings (Paepae) from a long time ago can be found in both valleys. You will appreciate the fruits of the valleys and especially the mangoes and papayas, which are easily found. You can simply ask the sailor to accompany you on both trips. A small trail allows you to access the ridge in 30 minutes that separates the two bays and offers an amazing panorama.

You will hardly meet anyone here except a few locals who have come to make copra. A very good daytrip, without tourists, as we like it, that is definitely among the things to do in Hiva Oa.

Last thing to do when visiting the island of Hiva Oa, in my opinion, is a day trip to the island of Tahuata. The pension where we stayed, and that I would recommend with my eyes closed, offers this excursion.

The day ranges from a stroll on the beautiful white sand beaches with coconut and palm trees of Tahuata Island, a boat trip around the island to observe the relief and a great local meal on the beach. All this is combined with a small workshop to learn how to braid, open coconuts and learn Marquesan dance. It is a great day that I would recommend to everyone.

So, these were my top 10 things to do in Hiva Oa. I hope you have a good overview of the activities in Hiva Oa. You can easily spend the week there without getting bored! To find your way around, here is a map of Hiva Oa.

If you are arriving from abroad (except within French Polynesia) you will have to take one of the international flights arriving on Tahiti Island. I wrote a full article on the different possibilities to go to French Polynesia from the main access points.

From USA, the easiest solution will be to take a flight from any town in USA to San Francisco and then another flight from SF to Papeete with Frenchbee. If you have flexible dates, you can find cheap flights from 550$. The same applies if your departure point is from Canada, a flight from a town to Canada to San Francisco and then a SF – Papeete flight. It will cost you around the same (700/800 Canadian $) for a SF-Tahiti Flight.

• From Tahiti (the main island): Like all the other Polynesian islands (Tahaa, Maupiti, Tikehau, the Gambiers, etc.), the easiest way to get to the island is to fly to Papeete first. Then to fly to Hiva Oa, you have to took a flight from Papeete. From Tahiti, you have two options. You can fly with Air Tahiti, which offers flights from around 86,000 xpf. They also offer a Marquesas Pass, which is worth looking into if you plan to visit Nuku Hiva afterwards. From 2023, Moana Air, a new airline, will offer more economical flights from 62,000 xpf (great value).

One of the tricks to save money in French Polynesia, and for those who will travel to all the Polynesian archipelagos, is to buy the company’s Pass for 5 archipelagos. If you visit the other 4 archipelagos (Society, Tuamotu, Gambier and Australes), the flight to the Marquesas will be free (except taxes).

From the other Marquesas Islands

You could also consider a trip to Hiva Oa, then Fatu HIva or Tahuata on the local shuttle service (Te Ata O HIva) which runs regularly. Expect to pay between 2,500 and 4,000 xpf return. Check with the company for times and days.

Finally, it’s possible to reach Hiva Oa by boat from the other Marquesas islands, on a cruise with the Aranui 5. Depending on the cabin chosen, the cruise takes 12 days and 11 nights from Tahiti and costs between 550,000 and 850,000 xpf.

There are a large number of guesthouses and a top class hotel on the island. For travellers on a budget, the guesthouse option will be the “cheapest”.

I personally recommend Kanahau Guesthouse, run by Tania, where I stayed for a week when I was on holiday. It has lovely large bungalows, all with views of the valley or Atuona Bay. Tania’s meals and stories about the island will make you love the character and the guesthouse. I highly recommend it.

Perched above Atuona Bay, Hiva Oa Hanakee offers stunning ocean and mountain views, with Marquesan-style bungalows. The lodge offers a free shuttle to the village and classic excursions.

There are, of course, other places to stay. Here are some recommendations:

• Temetiu Village: Located on the heights of Hiva Oa, Temetiu Village offers breathtaking views over Tahauku Bay. With spacious, comfortable bungalows, a panoramic swimming pool and a warm welcome, this guesthouse is ideal for a relaxing stay. Convivial meals allow you to discover Marquesan specialities, and organised excursions allow you to explore the island’s cultural sites.
• Relais Moehau: A well-known local address. It offers comfortable accommodation to discover the culture of Hiva Oa. With its seven simple yet welcoming rooms of different categories and a magnificent view of the Baie des Traîtres, this house offers a warm and friendly experience. Enjoy local specialities and organised activities during your stay.
• Pension Villa Enata: run by Mireille and Pierrick, this establishment offers two bungalows and one room with mountain and sea views. Enjoy free car transfers and renowned meals during your stay. Excursions in partnership with local providers are available, as is a family package.
• Chez Marie Antoinette: This is the only address we know of in Puamau. There are two simple single rooms, but there’s little choice for accommodation.

For those wanting to stay in a guesthouse, the cheapest option is to go through séjour dans les îles, who offer flight + guesthouse packages, which are certainly cheaper than organising everything yourself (I’ve done the maths).

If you sleep in a guesthouse, you will not have any worries for breakfast and dinner, which will be taken care of by the place. Otherwise, there are several shops in the city center of Atuona. Namely also that there is one in the village of Puamau, at the end of the island. Globally, all necessities are available.

For dining, we recommend the Relais Moehau Restaurant, the Hanakee Lodge Restaurant, the Temetiu Village Restaurant, the Hoa Nui (Atuona) Restaurant, the Make Make Snack Bar and of course the Chez Marie Antoinette Restaurant in Puamau.

For trips on the island, I recommend renting a car, preferably a 4×4, to be able to travel to all the valleys and villages that are at the other end of the island. There is no need to rent one for the days staying in Atuona, where everything can be done on foot without any worries. You can inquire at the pension for the different rental companies. You’ll find Hiva Oa Location and Marquises Cycles & Cars.

We don’t really come here to do activities in the sense that you might think (there are other Pacific islands where this aspect is more developed), but it is possible to imagine it:

• Scuba diving: there’s only one club (Marquesas Diving), which opened recently and seems to have a good reputation. They offer 2 dives / day trips / snorkelling trips on request. In my opinion, scuba diving is one of the best activities to do during a stay in French Polynesia. The seabed and the marine fauna are exceptional: coral gardens, rays, turtles, etc.
• Quad bikes: At Marquises Rental & Safari you can hire quad bikes to explore the French polynesian island (11,000 xpf/3h with a guide).
• 4×4 and boat excursions: Several companies (usually in addition to your guesthouse) offer these excursions. Expect to pay around 10,000 to 12,000 xpf for a day trip to Tahuata and around 10,000 xpf for a 4×4 day trip (with meals). Check out Hiva Oa Adventures or Hiva Toa Tours.
• Hiking on the island: There’s plenty to do on the island. 4×4 tour operators offer guiding services and can take you on various circuits/trails around the tropical island.

I hope you liked the article on the things to do Hiva Oa and that you now have a better idea for planning your trip to French Polynesia. If you have any questions about your visit to Hiva Oa in the Marquesas Islands, feel free to leave me a comment at the bottom of the article! By the way, do you want to know how to get to the Marquesas Islands?

I’ll see you soon,

Sylvain

Written by Sylvain PONS

From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.

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