Hiva Oa Island: what to do there?

The Marquesas, “the Land of Men.” For many people, the name is familiar thanks to French singer Jacques Brel and painter Paul Gauguin. In reality, though, few people could actually point to the archipelago on a map! The Marquesas are among those mysterious places that seem lost somewhere in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Scientists are almost certain that the Marquesas were one of the points of origin for some of the first civilizations in Oceania, and more specifically Easter Island. In this article, I share the different things to do in Hiva Oa, the island that was home for years to the two famous figures mentioned above.

For a bit of geographical context, the Marquesas are one of the five archipelagos of French Polynesia, located more than 1,600 km north of Tahiti, in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean. Hiva Oa is located in the Southern Marquesas Islands, along with Tahuata and Fatu Hiva. It is a volcanic Polynesian island that I have had the chance to visit several times, for both personal and professional reasons. And if you are traveling with your family, visiting French Polynesia with a baby is child’s play! For anyone looking for authenticity and the “Polynesian dream,” it is, in my opinion, the perfect island. It really can feel like paradise, as long as you make the effort to discover it. Visiting Hiva Oa for a vacation or honeymoon is a true immersion in Polynesian culture. If you are looking for turquoise-blue lagoons, crystal-clear Polynesian waters, snorkeling, overwater bungalows, and coral reefs, you will be better off choosing the Tuamotus or the Leeward Islands.

If you love the Marquesas Islands, I also invite you to discover the island of Ua Pou, in the Northern Marquesas.

If you would like to learn more about the other islands and get a broader overview of the region, I invite you to read our Marquesas summary guide. It’s a great place to start!

You reach Atuona, the main village of Hiva Oa, after about 30 minutes by road from the airport. As you arrive, you get a beautiful view over the bay. Around 2,000 people live peacefully in this town, which feels more like a village. You can do more or less everything on foot, and you are never too far from the center. Take the time to wander through the village and admire the impressive view from the foot of Mount Temetiu (1,213 m), the highest point on this French Polynesian island.

Of all the things to do in Hiva Oa, many travelers come here to visit the graves of Brel and Gauguin in the municipal cemetery. You simply need to walk up the road that starts just after the gendarmerie; the way is signposted. Jacques Brel is buried in the marine cemetery, and he was very well known locally for helping build the airfield at the time. This is where he used to take off in his “Jojo”!

While you are there, you can also discover the old pre-European cemetery of Teivitete, where the remains of ancient tombs can still be seen. Considering their age, everything is quite well preserved. To reach the cemetery, follow the main river through the village. You will see the cemetery on your left, follow the signs, and enjoy the lovely view over the bay.

You can also visit the cultural center in the town center. Located in the heart of Atuona, this cultural center pays tribute to the lives of Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel. The first building displays reproductions of Gauguin’s works, correspondence, and photographs, while the second presents items connected to the singer’s life, including his famous red “Jojo” plane. It is a must for visitors to Hiva Oa, and the center also sells books, lithographs, and videos. Anyone interested in these two iconic figures will find a unique, symbolic atmosphere here.

Atuona, the island’s main village, remains the starting point for most visits on this Pacific island.

We would also like to mention two other remarkable sites near Atuona.

• Tehueto Petroglyphs: A petroglyph site accessible from Tahauku Bay by going up the Faakua River. You can see several anthropomorphic silhouettes there.
• The Smiling Tiki: A rather unique site, set in a clearing, with a rare smiling tiki. You can ask your accommodation, for example, to arrange a visit.

Continue your visit by heading to the village of Taaoa, farther west. It is best to rent a car in Hiva Oa for a few days so you can explore the island independently; ask your guesthouse for help with this. Take the opportunity to stop along the road and admire the beautiful view back toward Atuona.

About 15 minutes by car from Atuona, the village of Taaoa sits at the foot of an impressive cliff. The main thing to do in the village is to visit the famous Paepae Upeke, an archaeological site. A paepae is the Marquesan equivalent of a marae: the remains of ancient settlements on the island, which may have served as living areas, meeting places, or gathering sites.

After paying the 300-franc entrance fee at the craft fare, which helps maintain the site, take the time to explore this place and imagine the scale of the life that once unfolded here. Ideally, ask your guesthouse for a guide if you want a more detailed explanation of the site.

After walking around the site, the village church, built with stone and wood, is definitely worth a visit during your stay.

After visiting the Polynesian villages of Atuona and Taaoa, take the road that climbs toward the north of the island. It is definitely one of the things to do in Hiva Oa. Ask your guesthouse about renting a 4×4, which remains the most suitable option for exploring the north of this tropical island, including the villages of Hanaiapa, Hanapaoa, and Puamau, at the far end of the island.

I recommend doing the whole route over two days, as the road is long and bumpy in places. It is better to visit Hanaiapa first, either in the morning or afternoon, and then come back the next day for the other villages and the eastern tip of the island.

The road to Puamau is truly beautiful, with cliffs dropping toward the sea, lush vegetation, and blue water stretching as far as the eye can see.

Since my first visit, most of the road to Puamau has been paved, so the drive is now easier than it used to be. Even so, it remains a remote mountain road, and I would still recommend checking current conditions locally before setting off.

Spend a day discovering the flower-filled valley of Hanaiapa, located about 20 km from Atuona, or roughly an hour’s drive, a little more if you stop for photos. The valley has real charm, especially with its few houses tucked away at the end of the valley, not far from the small white-sand beach of the village, which makes for a lovely walk.

Visiting the valley also gives you access to one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, Hanatekuua Beach, about an hour’s walk from the Hanaiapa Valley. This superb white-sand beach is one of the must-see places on the island!

This valley is about an hour’s drive from Atuona, on the road to Puamau. Ask your guesthouse to explain where to find a map of the island, because the entrance to the valley is not signposted and can be easy to miss.

A rough dirt road leads into the valley at first, so drive slowly. When you arrive, you will see a small valley tucked at the foot of the mountains. It is especially known for its honey, which you can buy by asking the village residents, if it is the right season.

The Paepae of Moeone, with the crowned stone tiki at its summit, is worth a visit. There are no signs here to guide you, so ask the locals for directions.

As you drive up from the Hanapaoa Valley, continue along the road toward Puamau, so to speak, as there are no signs. You follow the edge of a cliff on a superb road. Along the way, you will pass through the two small valleys of Motuua first and Nahoe second. From the road, you get beautiful views over both valleys.

There is nothing very specific to do here, so simply enjoy the place with a walk on the beach. I also recommend taking a small lunch break on the lovely sandy beach of Nahoe, where it is easy to swim and enjoy a calm, relaxing moment.

Here you are at the end of the road, on the far eastern side of the tropical island. From the top of the pass leading down to the village, you get a superb view over Puamau. Allow at least 2.5 to 3 hours to drive from Atuona, and possibly more if you are not used to driving on rough mountain roads or if you want to stop for photos along the way. Also make sure to check the weather forecast before leaving, as the road can be dangerous and slippery.

Once you arrive, a visit to the Paepae of Iipona is a must. The site is not free because of maintenance fees; a sign at the entrance to the village explains this. Take the time to stroll around this ancient site and enjoy the surroundings.

You can then end your afternoon by the sea and enjoy the village’s black-sand beach for a swim in front of this beautiful Polynesian landscape.

The Marquesas are also famous for their wild horses, which you can see across the island. Horseback riding is one of the things you can do in Hiva Oa. Of course, the activity is also available in the Australes, but the experience and atmosphere feel even stronger here, in the heart of this remote and exotic environment. Please note that Hameau Ranch, also known as Chez Paco, has closed because the owners retired. No one has yet taken over the business. As far as we know, Jérémie is now the only operator available.

Jérémie offers beautiful rides around Atuona by prior arrangement. Longer excursions of a day or more are also possible. You can discuss prices directly with him via Facebook or by calling (+689) 40 92 73 80 / 87 75 05 99; prices start from around 5,000 XPF per person.

I have to tell you about this one, because I did not know about it until my last visit. This is not the kind of recommendation you usually find in a guidebook! You can rent a small local boat, known as a “bonitier,” or a speedboat from several people in the village to get there. We rented one for the day, 25,000 XPF, or about €200, with the bonitier Léo Rohi. Ask your guesthouse, they will know.

The trip is really worth the effort, and almost no tourists attempt the adventure. As far as I know, it is not openly advertised. But it is clearly a day trip worth doing.

You leave early in the morning and follow the west and north coasts of Hiva Oa, with beautiful views of the cliffs and a few remote valleys that are now uninhabited. After about an hour at sea, the two bays come into view. First you see the wide Tanaeka Bay, with its white-sand beach, then Hanamenu Bay.

There is nothing specific to do on this day trip except enjoy the two valleys. Remains of old dwellings, known as paepae, can still be found in both valleys. You will also enjoy the fruit growing in the valleys, especially mangoes and papayas, which are easy to find. You can simply ask the boatman to accompany you on both visits. A small trail climbs in about 30 minutes to the ridge separating the two bays and offers a beautiful panorama.

You will hardly meet anyone here, except perhaps a few locals who have come to make copra. It is a wonderful day trip, away from tourists, exactly the way we like it, and definitely one of the things to do in Hiva Oa.

The last thing I would recommend when visiting Hiva Oa is a day trip to the island of Tahuata. The guesthouse where we stayed, and that I would recommend without hesitation, offers this excursion.

The day includes time on Tahuata’s beautiful white-sand beaches with coconut and palm trees, a boat trip around the island to admire the coastline, and a great local meal on the beach. It is all combined with a small workshop where you learn how to braid, open coconuts, and try Marquesan dance. It is a wonderful day that I would recommend to everyone.

So, these were my top 10 things to do in Hiva Oa. I hope this gives you a good overview of the activities in Hiva Oa. You can easily spend a week there without getting bored! To help you find your way around, here is a map of Hiva Oa.

If you are arriving from abroad, outside French Polynesia, you will first need to take an international flight to Tahiti. I wrote a full article on the different ways to get to French Polynesia from the main access points.

From the USA, the easiest option is usually to fly from any city in the USA to San Francisco, then take another flight from San Francisco to Papeete with French Bee. If your dates are flexible, you can sometimes find cheap flights from around $550. The same applies if you are leaving from Canada: fly from a city in Canada to San Francisco, then take a San Francisco–Papeete flight. The price is usually around the same, roughly 700 to 800 Canadian dollars for a San Francisco–Tahiti flight.

• From Tahiti (the main island): As with the other Polynesian islands (Tahaa, Maupiti, Tikehau, the Gambier Islands, etc.), the easiest way to reach Hiva Oa is to fly to Papeete first. Then, to fly to Hiva Oa, you need to take a domestic flight from Papeete. From Tahiti, you have two options. Air Tahiti serves Hiva Oa, with round-trip fares from roughly 106,000 XPF. It also offers a Marquesas Pass, which is worth considering if you plan to visit Nuku Hiva afterward. Air Moana, launched in 2023, is another option to compare for Hiva Oa, with fares varying depending on your dates.

One of the best ways to save money in French Polynesia, especially if you plan to visit all the Polynesian archipelagos, is to buy the airline’s Pass for five archipelagos. If you visit the other four archipelagos (Society, Tuamotu, Gambier, and Australes), the flight to the Marquesas is included, except for taxes.

From the other Marquesas Islands

You could also plan a trip to Hiva Oa, then continue to Fatu Hiva or Tahuata with the local shuttle service Te Ata O Hiva, which runs regularly. Expect to pay around 2,500 to 4,000 XPF return, depending on the route. Check directly with the company for current times and operating days.

Finally, it is possible to reach Hiva Oa by boat from the other Marquesas Islands on an Aranui 5 cruise. Depending on the route and cabin chosen, the cruise usually lasts 12 days and 11 nights from Tahiti, with fares from around €3,340 per person.

There are quite a few guesthouses and one high-end hotel on the island. For travelers on a budget, guesthouses will usually be the cheapest option.

I personally recommend Kanahau Guesthouse, run by Tania, where I stayed for a week during my trip. It has lovely, spacious bungalows, all with views over the valley or Atuona Bay. Tania’s meals and stories about the island will make you fall for both the place and the guesthouse. I highly recommend it.

Perched above Atuona Bay, Hiva Oa Hanakee offers beautiful ocean and mountain views, with Marquesan-style bungalows. The lodge offers a free shuttle to the village and classic excursions.

There are, of course, other places to stay. Here are a few recommendations:

• Temetiu Village: Located on the heights of Hiva Oa, Temetiu Village offers sweeping views over Tahauku Bay. With spacious, comfortable bungalows, a panoramic swimming pool, and a warm welcome, this guesthouse is ideal for a relaxing stay. Shared meals are a chance to discover Marquesan specialties, and organized excursions help you explore the island’s cultural sites.
• Relais Moehau: A well-known local address. It offers comfortable accommodation for discovering the culture of Hiva Oa. With seven simple but welcoming rooms in different categories and a beautiful view over the Baie des Traîtres, this guesthouse offers a warm, friendly experience. You can enjoy local specialties and organized activities during your stay.
• Pension Villa Enata: run by Mireille and Pierrick, this property offers two bungalows and one room with mountain and sea views. Enjoy free car transfers and well-known meals during your stay. Excursions with local providers are available, as is a family package.
• Chez Marie Antoinette: This is the only address we know of in Puamau. There are two simple single rooms, but accommodation options are limited.

If you want to stay in a guesthouse, the cheapest option is often to go through Séjours dans les Îles, which offers flight + guesthouse packages that are certainly cheaper than organizing everything yourself. I’ve done the math.

If you stay in a guesthouse, you will not have to worry about breakfast and dinner, as they are usually taken care of by the property. Otherwise, there are several shops in the center of Atuona. There is also one in the village of Puamau, at the far end of the island. Overall, you can find the essentials.

For dining, we recommend Relais Moehau Restaurant, Hanakee Lodge Restaurant, Temetiu Village Restaurant, Hoa Nui Restaurant in Atuona, Make Make Snack Bar, and, of course, Chez Marie Antoinette Restaurant in Puamau.

For getting around the island, I recommend renting a car, preferably a 4×4, so you can reach all the valleys and villages at the other end of the island. There is no need to rent one for the days you spend in Atuona, where everything can be done on foot without any trouble. Ask your guesthouse about the different rental companies. You will find Hiva Oa Location and Marquises Cycles & Car.

You do not really come here for activities in the way you might on other Pacific islands where tourism is more developed, but a few options are available:

• Scuba diving: there is one main dive center, Marquises Diving, which seems to have a good reputation. They offer dives, day trips, and snorkeling outings on request. In my opinion, scuba diving is one of the best activities to do during a stay in French Polynesia. The seabed and marine life are exceptional: coral gardens, rays, turtles, and more.
• Quad bikes: At Marquises Rental & Safari, you can hire quad bikes to explore the French Polynesian island, with guided 3-hour tours from around 11,000 XPF.
• 4×4 and boat excursions: Several companies, usually in addition to your guesthouse, offer these excursions. Expect to pay around 10,000 to 12,000 XPF for a day trip to Tahuata and around 10,000 XPF for a 4×4 day trip with meals. Check out Hiva Oa Adventures or Hiva Toa Tours.
• Hiking on the island: There is plenty to do on the island. 4×4 tour operators also offer guiding services and can take you on different routes and trails around the tropical island.

I hope you enjoyed this article on the things to do in Hiva Oa and that you now have a better idea of how to plan your trip to French Polynesia. If you have any questions about visiting Hiva Oa in the Marquesas Islands, feel free to leave me a comment at the bottom of the article! By the way, would you like to know how to get to the Marquesas Islands?

See you soon,

Sylvain

Written by Sylvain PONS

From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.

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