Kalinago Waterfall and Rivière du Plessis Walk

I’m slowly getting back to writing about the nooks and crannies of Guadeloupe. You’ll probably smile, but we discovered Rivière du Plessis when we first arrived in Guadeloupe, over two and a half years ago. At the time, I was frankly too lazy to write about this little stroll through the undergrowth. Now I’m getting more and more motivated to write about all the walks in Guadeloupe, even if, I admit, this is just a little family walk.

Today, I’m going to take you to discover the Rivière du Plessis and the Cascade Kalinago, places that are not so well known to tourists… So we have the opportunity to go back there while Mélanie’s mother is on holiday with us for a month to discover Guadeloupe again.

The site is particularly famous for its Arawak rock engravings. It’s a site that follows in the footsteps of the Parc des Roches Gravées in Trois-Rivières, which we’ve visited several times.

I’ll take you on a tour of this cultural site, which is highly recommended, especially if you take the short walk along the riverbed to the tranquil Kalinago cascade.

We leave Vieux Fort early in the morning (by car, of course) and head for the leeward coast and the town of Baillif. As usual, I’ll give you all the practical information you need to get there at the end of the article. We arrived at the site, where no parking facilities had really been set up for the occasion, so we parked on the side of the road as usual.

A tourist sign points to the famous Plessis engraved rocks, named after the river below, Woch Gravé Plési in Creole! We walk along a narrow path through the tall grass to the entrance of the rainforest. We then head straight downhill, with a steep climb to the riverbed. This short 15-minute walk isn’t particularly difficult, but be careful after the rain as it’s still quite slippery.

The walk through the forest is always pleasant, even if the flora and fauna isn’t particularly special compared to other places you can visit on a hike. However, take the opportunity to open your eyes and observe the beautiful epiphytic plants that sometimes cling to the trees. Depending on the area, there are wooden steps to reduce the risk of slipping. You’ll also find shelters along the way, which will come in handy if you get caught in a downpour.

Fifteen minutes later, we arrive at the edge of the river, where there is a large main boardwalk with several information panels. If you’re interested in the history and culture of the Caribbean, I invite you to take half an hour to read these informative panels. Even though they’re in pretty bad shape, they’ll tell you a lot about the origin of these engraved stones.

I’m not going to recite everything that’s written on the tablets, but please bear in mind the following points:

• Although the origins are not certain, it is thought that the Caribbean settlements came from Asia via the Bering Strait, which was then open to the sea,
• The earliest settlements and migrations in the Caribbean date back to between -5,000 and -3,000 BC. The Arawak Indians are thought to have created these rock carvings around -1700 BC,
• The site of the engraved rocks is in the bed of the Plessis River, which marks the boundary with the community of Vieux-Habitants,
• The engravings are on volcanic rock.

After stopping for a quarter of an hour to read the signs, we go down to the riverbank in search of the famous rock engravings. Some are really easy to see, others are much harder to find, especially depending on the ambient light. Everyone gets into the swing of things and we continue our walk along the riverbed towards the famous Kalinago waterfall.

We knew it wasn’t too far, and the kids are having fun all the way. It’s a pleasant walk, there’s no one around and it feels much better than the crowded beaches of Sainte-Anne. After a quarter of an hour’s walk, we catch a glimpse of a huge cliff in the distance, reflected in the water. Gradually we hear the sound of the waterfall in the distance. There’s no real path to get there, as you’re walking almost in the middle of the river, although towards the end it’s possible to climb up the right bank (i.e. to the left) to find a semblance of a path that will take you to the level of the famous waterfall 5 minutes later.

It’s a really nice discovery, with a beautiful greenish pool that blends in perfectly with the landscape. In front of you you can see a huge cliff, about 20 or 30 metres high, and on the left there is a beautiful little cave that you can climb into carefully. It’s a truly magical place, and the waterfall that cascades into the basin makes for a truly pleasurable experience.

Visually, this is perhaps not the most beautiful waterfall we’ve seen, as I’d say it’s in a less tropical location than we’re used to seeing, for example at the back of the national park. Here the surroundings are perfectly clear and we can see the magnificent blue sky above us.

Nous passons une petite heure tranquillement tous les cinq à profiter des lieux que nous avons presque pour nous seuls. Les enfants se régalent à barboter au bord de l’eau tandis que les adultes réussissent à s’immerger dans l’eau qui n’est vraiment pas chaude. Pour dire, j’ai quand même réussi à y entrer mais ça ne m’a pas fait rire.

The five of us spend a quiet hour enjoying the surroundings, which we have almost to ourselves. The children are splashing around at the edge of the pool, while the adults manage to immerse themselves in the not at all warm water. To tell you the truth, I did manage to get in, but it didn’t make me laugh.

Unfortunately, if you can call it that, the world is starting to come and I’m still a bit surprised that so many people come here. Admittedly, it’s not the Maldives, but there are about fifteen people around us at lunchtime. The magic of the place is really fading.

As usual, here’s some practical information.

As you might expect, you’ll need to get to Guadeloupe first. We’ve written an article explaining everything you need to know about getting there. You’ll find everything you need to know about companies, seasons, prices, etc.

Once you’re there, we strongly advise you to rent a car to be completely autonomous, as it’s difficult to rely on the local bus network, which remains rather unreliable. We often recommend comparing prices on Discover cars, which compares the prices of different car hire companies.

We’ve also written a comprehensive article on budgeting for a trip to Guadeloupe, covering all these elements: airfares, local transport, food, restaurants, etc. A real guide to help you plan your trip. A real guide for your stay in Guadeloupe.

In terms of location, we’re on the border of the communes of Baillif and Vieux-Habitants. Of course, you’ll need to get to the island of Basse-Terre. From the commune of Basse-Terre it takes about 15 minutes by car. Here’s the exact route on Google Maps. There’s no real parking on site, so you can park along the road without too much trouble.

There’s plenty of choice when it comes to accommodation in the area and, as always, something to suit every budget. Here are 3 ideas for staying nearby:

• Peaceful House: Perched on a hill, this is a beautiful house with sea and mountain views. The welcome is first class and it will be a wonderful experience.
• Villa de L’anse: If you’re looking for accommodation closer to the sea, here’s a villa with a pool that’s sure to please!
• Le Val de Lys: Another really great, highly rated holiday home with sea views, great facilities and a jacuzzi.

There’s plenty to do and see when you’re in the area. Here are some ideas:

• Hike to La Soufrière,
• Discover the Chutes du Carbet,
• Walk to the Chute du Galion,
• Enjoy the beaches of the leeward coast!

In short, you’ll love it!

See you soon for another article!

Written by Sylvain PONS

Since 2021, I've been living in the Guadeloupe archipelago with Mélanie and our two children. We are exploring these beautiful islands and discovering the treasures that we are happy to share with you!

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