The island of Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas

Ah, the Marquesas. Every time I have the chance to set foot there, I feel something deep inside me. It is the Polynesian archipelago I love most, along with the Gambier Islands. In mid-2019, after already discovering Hiva Oa, Ua Pou, Fatu Hiva and Tahuata, I had the opportunity to travel to the island of Nuku Hiva for a week. By the way, would you like to know more about traveling to the Marquesas Islands, the “Land of Men,” as they are often called?

I have to admit that, at first, I was not entirely sure what to expect. I had heard about the island, but not much more, and Nuku Hiva remained, in my mind, the capital island of the Marquesas, somewhere far away in Oceania. I deliberately avoided searching online to see what it looked like. I wanted to keep that part of the trip a mystery.

So here I was, setting off from Tahiti on a long flight to Nuku Hiva, the main island of the Marquesas, about 1,400 km away. A direct Air Tahiti flight now takes around 3h15, although the journey can take longer depending on the route and stopovers. I’ll tell you about my week there as a short travelogue, then share all the practical information at the end of the article.

This is the first time, and I apologize in advance, that I will only be using phone photos for an article. I had taken some very nice shots, but unfortunately I could not recover the photos from my hard drive, which crashed in the meantime. So, the images are not as good as those taken with my DSLR, but we have no choice.

If you’d like to learn more about the area, I invite you to read our complete guide to the Marquesas Archipelago for a broader overview of the territory.

Arriving on the tropical island of Nuku Hiva remains spectacular, as it is on all the Marquesan islands. In the distance, you can see an arid landscape, which explains why the area around the airport is called “Terre Déserte,” or Deserted Land. You understand the name as soon as you land there. For those arriving after 2019, part of the terminal has been renovated, and the whole place looked rather beautiful to me.

If you are coming for a vacation or honeymoon, there is a good chance your guesthouse or hotel will come and pick you up. Note that the airport is about 1h30 by road from Taiohae, the island’s main village. Once you leave the arid airport area, you start discovering the island’s beautiful landscapes. I was surprised by the vegetation along the road, especially in the center of the island, with lots of ferns and pines. The pines were planted in the past and have since spread across the island.

The driver stopped the car at what locals call “the Canyon.” Rightly so, because a huge, almost deserted valley opens up in front of you. It is quite impressive to see. Apparently, you can go horseback riding there, but I did not get the chance to try it.

The road continues up toward the pass, almost in the center of the island, and the greenery is still there. A second stop just after the pass gives us a glimpse of a beautiful green meadow. The driver says to me, “This is our New Zealand,” and honestly, he is not wrong. A few photos later, we continue along the road as it winds through the mountains. After a while, we finally see the famous Taiohae Bay, the bay of the main village. Honestly, with the good weather I had during my visit, I found it extraordinary: almost perfectly circular, surrounded by lush vegetation, with boats moored in the bay. The scene was set.

Since I arrived late in the village, I took the opportunity to eat “at the quay,” right next to the market. This is where many sailors arriving from South America gather after crossing the Pacific Ocean. I think it is the perfect place for anyone who wants to eat, or even have breakfast in the morning, without spending too much. Henry and his team serve local meals for lunch and dinner, as well as everything you need for breakfast. Even though I still could not eat fish or meat at the time because of ciguatera, they were very accommodating and always prepared something different for me. Note: free Wi-Fi is available.

You should know that Taiohae is quite spread out and stretches for several kilometers around the bay. You can still explore it on foot, but it is worth knowing. Among the things I think you should really see are the cathedral in the center and, above all, the famous Fort Collet, where a huge 12-meter-high tiki, built in 2016, stands. The site is beautiful and offers lovely views over the bay. Judge for yourself.

As for the rest of the village, it is very pleasant to walk along the seafront, wander around and watch local life. Every morning, you can go to the wharf when the fishermen arrive and watch them unload the night’s catch. People buy fish directly on site, everything is cut up right there, and the leftovers are thrown to the sharks in the bay! There is also a pae pae at the back of the village, which is quite nice to visit.

I had heard about a nice walk from the village, the Sentinelle viewpoint hike. Thanks to Wikilocs, I was able to find the GPS track for the hike. Honestly, it was a great discovery. During my visit, the walk followed a very well-maintained path, which is rare enough to mention. The final climb is very steep, but it does not last too long. The panorama at the top is well worth the effort, with another view over the whole of Taiohae Bay. I recommend this hike if you are on the island for a few days and want to gain some height. Hiking in Nuku Hiva is definitely one of the must-do activities on the island.

Another nice little walk from the village is to Baie Colette. You can also find the track on Wikilocs. Otherwise, the path starts at the end of the bay, not far from the village hotel, formerly known as Keikahanui Lodge and now Le Nuku Hiva by Pearl Resorts. I call it a walk rather than a hike because you are walking on a path, not a trail, but it is very pleasant if you want to go for a drink or grab a snack for lunch.

What I found most interesting in Nuku Hiva, in the Marquesas Islands, was discovering the island’s beauty through its roads and small villages north of Taiohae. So off I went to discover the first village in the north: Taipivai. The road leading to the famous bay is very pleasant. You get a beautiful viewpoint before descending the winding road toward the village. There is nothing extraordinary to do here, but you can stop to see the huge central pae pae, an ancient archaeological site, just before the bridge. For photographers, if the timing is right, you can also take some beautiful shots of the bridge from both sides.

With my 4×4, I headed out in the late afternoon to explore the end of a track lost in the village. The atmosphere at the end of the valley was superb, and I could even see a beautiful waterfall in the distance. After driving a little, I reached it on foot. It was really impressive. You can then continue along the road beside the bay toward the small village of Hooumi. There is nothing special to do in itself, but the Marquesan atmosphere on this small black-sand beach at the end of the world, especially at sunset, is beautiful.

You can then continue, as I did, toward the village of Hatiheu, even farther north. The road up to the pass is superb, winding through lush vegetation with beautiful views. A treat for the eyes, and what an atmosphere. When you arrive at the pass, you get a beautiful view of Hatiheu Bay and its rocky formations on the left. I drove slowly down toward the village and, I admit, I stopped at almost every bend because the views were so beautiful.

Arriving in the small village of Hatiheu also leaves a strong impression. With its beautiful golden-sand beach, impressive rocks along the shore and relaxed natural atmosphere, the bay had everything to please my eyes. Locally, the little snack bar Chez Tati Yvonne is more than well known. Everyone stops there: independent travelers, people traveling with a guide, and even Marquesans themselves. The restaurant is especially famous for its goat with coconut milk and river shrimp. I really enjoyed my meal there! It is also the ideal place to stop for lunch if you leave Taiohae in the morning.

To enjoy the afternoon, the beautiful sea views and the beaches that feel cut off from the world, a visit to the Polynesian village of Anaho is a must. Continue along the path by the sea after Tatie Yvonne’s place and take the trail toward Anaho; it is indicated by a sign on the mountainside. You can park just before the start of the hike without any problem.

It takes about 15 to 20 minutes of walking through beautiful mango undergrowth to reach the pass. The view over the village of Anaho and the surrounding area is superb and panoramic. For a better view from the pass, do not hesitate to climb a little on the left side of the ridge. The bravest, like me, can consider going down the winding path that leads to the village below, in Anaho Bay. A few houses are scattered around the bay in front of a beautiful deserted white-sand beach. The area is great for swimming, although it is famous for nonos, those tiny invisible biting insects. My calves still remember them.

I really recommend continuing along the white-sand beach. There is no difficulty, and the path leads to the beautiful bay of Haatuatua and its dunes. You then return via a small pass, where you can climb on the left for a better view. Notice the imposing basalt cliffs with their unusual shapes on the right side of the bay. I still remember the return via the switchbacks on the climb back up. It is not very long, but it is definitely a workout for your legs. In my opinion, this little outing will easily keep you busy for a day. No need to push farther north the same day; it is better to split the area in two.

On the second day, you can return to Hatiheu. If you did not stop there the day before, consider taking the time to admire the two pae pae, marae in Tahitian, at the entrance to the village, at the end of the valley. These ancient archaeological sites have been restored, and the atmosphere is truly superb. When I was there, I was alone at the sites, with birds singing and imposing banyan trees that seemed to belong to another era. I advise you to spend an hour at the first site, which is really beautiful, and simply wander around. If you look carefully, you can find petroglyphs on a large turtle-shaped rock.

In Hatiheu Bay, turn left toward the village at the end of the world: Aakapa. You reach it by a more or less paved road that offers very beautiful views of the surrounding wild bays. After a good half-hour on the track, we arrived in the village of Aakapa. Time seems to have stopped here. Very few people, lots of calm, and nothing special to see except enjoying the atmosphere and local life. Take the opportunity to go down to the quay by the sea.

Sadly, I did not have the opportunity to go any farther. The dirt road continues until it joins the road descending from Nuku Hiva airport. According to the people I spoke with, the route is worth the detour and offers some beautiful panoramas. That will have to wait until next time. But if you have the time and have rented a car, it can easily keep you busy for a second day.

Among the places I did not have the opportunity to visit during my week there is the famous Hakaui Valley. The place is not accessible by road or track, so you have no choice but to go there by boat, about 40 minutes from Taiohae to Hakatea Bay, or by horseback ride, as I was told. The valley is famous for Vaipo Waterfall, often presented as the second-highest waterfall in French Polynesia. At 350 m high, it is apparently very beautiful. This is one thing I would like to do on my next visit, and I would probably try the horseback ride, which would suit me better: quieter and slower. The waterfall is also accessible on a long hike. You can find the exact trail on Wikilocs. Several providers offer outings to the valley, including Te Amoka and Marquesas Culture Trip.

These are, in my opinion, the main things to see and do in Nuku Hiva.

As usual, here is the practical information you need to plan a stay in Nuku Hiva.

As with all Polynesian islands, you first need to take an international flight to Tahiti, or Papeete, before heading to the Marquesas Islands. I suggest checking this flight comparison tool, which I have been using for a very long time, to find the cheapest flights to Papeete from France, Switzerland and Belgium. In most cases, flights will be cheaper from Paris than from elsewhere in Europe. From Canada, I recommend splitting the journey: take a flight from a major Canadian city to San Francisco, then a low-cost flight from SF to Papeete.

For travelers visiting French Polynesia, it can be very interesting to include Nuku Hiva as part of an extension or an Air Tahiti Pass, especially if you want to visit several Marquesan islands, which I recommend. If you only want to visit Nuku Hiva, a return flight from Tahiti with Air Tahiti will do the job; as a rough idea, expect around 95,000 to 100,000 XPF per person for a return ticket. Since 2023, Air Moana has also been serving Nuku Hiva, so it is worth comparing both airlines before booking.

For adventurers, Nuku Hiva is also a good place to meet people arriving or leaving by boat, either for the other Marquesan Islands, for Tahiti, or to continue their journey outside French Polynesia. Do not hesitate to hang around Hugues’ wharf to meet people and perhaps find a way across Polynesian waters.

Finally, for locals or travelers already in French Polynesia, you can look into the “Séjour dans les îles” concept with Air Tahiti, which combines flight and accommodation. Depending on the offer available, it can be cheaper than booking everything separately, at least that was the case when I checked it.

A few brief lines for those wondering. Personally, I like taking my time. I would say that staying 4 or 5 days is a good compromise:

• One day to discover Taiohae, the tiki, the pae pae, the Sentinelle walk, the seafront and Baie Colette, then go to Taipivai and Hooumi. This could easily be split over 2 days,
• A day trip to Hatiheu, then Anaho and Haatuatua Bay,
• A full day to Aakapa and the return via the northern track,
• A day hike to see Hakaui Valley and the waterfall.

You can make it shorter, of course, but with the long flight, the arrival time and the departure time, usually late morning, I think 4 days on site is really a minimum if you want to take your time. If you can, a week would be ideal in my opinion.

A few practical notes:

• Taiohae is quite spread out, so walking around can be a bit of a hassle. Bikes are a good compromise, if you ask me,
• There are only a few ATMs in town,
• General grocery stores usually accept credit cards in town,
• The Marquesas are famous for their crafts, so do not hesitate to support local artisans by bringing back a few small souvenirs, such as stone, wood or bone carvings, tapa and more,
• It is strongly recommended to buy bottled water for your stay.

I personally stayed with a friend, so I cannot really recommend a guesthouse based on my own experience. However, I can share what I heard and what was recommended to me. There are several guesthouses in the village. I received very good feedback about the Mave Mai guesthouse in the town center.

For those looking for a little more comfort, there are also lodges in Nuku Hiva. First, there is Le Nuku Hiva by Pearl Resorts, formerly Keikahanui Pearl Lodge, located high up southwest of the bay. I went there for a drink one evening, and the setting looked superb, with a splendid view over the entire bay and a beautiful swimming pool on the terrace. I would definitely try it! It is often the accommodation recommended for honeymooners passing through the Marquesas.

For those who like sleeping close to nature, I have not tested the place, but I found an accommodation in Taiohae that accepts tents.

There are other accommodation options in Nuku Hiva, such as Pension Koku’u or Pension Moana Nui. Less well known, but also well regarded, are Pension Toka Eva and HEIIKIANI Sweet Home.

As already mentioned, I suggest getting around Taiohae by bike or on foot. Whenever you want to leave the main village, however, you will need a vehicle. I see two options here: either you rent a car directly in the village, from Tony Loc or Mave Mai, or you book day trips through your guesthouse. With the second option, you do not have to worry about renting a car, but it may limit your freedom of movement. Maybe one day of each? Plan on roughly 9,000 to 10,000 XPF per day for a 4×4.

To visit Hakaui Valley, even though I did not make the trip myself, a friend paid 15,000 XPF for the boat and hike to the waterfall, without a picnic, for 2 adults and 2 children aged 2 and 5.

For a day trip or a horseback ride of a few hours, according to the information I have, there were two providers offering this kind of outing: Sabine and Nui. I did not go for a ride myself, but I received much better feedback about Nui, who organizes excursions around Hatiheu and Anaho Bay.

For eating in Nuku Hiva:

• If you are on half-board and only need to take care of lunch, you can buy food in one of the shops in town or in certain valleys,
• In Nuku Hiva, you can eat at Henry’s, at the pier. It is very good and inexpensive,
• At the market, just before Henry’s place,
• At Tatie Yvonne’s in Hatiheu, which is a must,
• I have heard good things about the meals at Moana Nui in town,
• You can also eat at the Lodge restaurant!

Generally speaking, the rainy season is said to be shifted in the Marquesas. People often recommend going roughly between December and March. But then again, with the climate changing, you can never be completely sure. As for the temperature, there is nothing to worry about: it is always pleasant in the Marquesas, and you will never be too cold. It can get a little chilly in winter, between June and September, especially in the evening.

Well, I’ll stop here. I hope you enjoyed this walk around the island of Nuku Hiva and that I made you want to go there. I also hope this article has given you a good overview of things to do in Nuku Hiva during your French Polynesian vacation. If you enjoy discoveries, authentic Polynesian islands, culture, beautiful nature and hiking trails, then this island is for you. If you love activities, water sports such as surfing and paddleboarding, parties, scuba diving, turquoise lagoons and white-sand beaches, this may not be the right island for you. To continue the journey in French Polynesia, and more specifically in the Marquesas Islands, I invite you to discover the magnificent island of Hiva Oa, famous for having welcomed Jacques Brel and Paul Gauguin.

See you soon,

Sylvain

Written by Sylvain PONS

From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.

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