What to do on the island of La Graciosa: beaches, hikes and ferry

Before planning my trip to Lanzarote, I’ll admit I didn’t know Isla Graciosa at all. While doing my research and itinerary, I realized that travelers loved the island and that it’s worth the trip. So I decided to add it to the things to do in Lanzarote (it’s exactly 2 km away). I didn’t really know what to expect when going there, I hadn’t looked at any photos to keep the surprise effect. I only knew that we couldn’t take our own car on the ferry and that we had to get around either by bike or on foot. I told myself it would be nice to circle the island on a one-day hike. But once I got there, I quickly changed my tune haha.

Speaking of my arrival, once off the ferry, there we were in Caleta de Sebo: the island’s port and main village. As we toured the village, I thought we could rent bikes to cover the main points of the island, because on foot it might take too long if I want to do it all. In the end, seeing the condition of the roads and after asking a local bike rental shop, I chose to go on a safari tour. It’s a tour offered by the bike rental guy: he takes us around the north in an off-road car, and for the south, it’s extra if you want. Off we went on this adventure, discovering this preserved, natural island.

At first glance, I was already curious to see more… and I can tell you I wasn’t disappointed. Without keeping you in suspense, in my eyes, if you come to Lanzarote, you absolutely must take a tour of the island of La Graciosa. It’s truly a one-of-a-kind desert paradise!

Just before telling you about La Graciosa’s must-sees, let me give you a quick overview to situate this gorgeous sliver of land. La Graciosa is north of the island of Lanzarote, more precisely 2 km away. Whether from La Graciosa or Lanzarote, you can clearly see each other’s coasts. A little backstory: back in the day, there wasn’t much to eat on La Graciosa, only fish. So residents had to row over and climb the cliffs to sell their fish, fetch water and buy other food. Needless to say, it wasn’t easy every day…

Alright, I might drop a few more history tidbits because I think they’re interesting to share. But in the meantime, here’s everything about La Graciosa’s must-sees!

I’d been warned that Playa de las Conchas was the most beautiful beach on La Graciosa and I have to say it’s just stunning and impressive. You’re on a long stretch of golden sand, in a natural, wild vibe with nothing developed. And from the beach, you get a superb view of the neighboring islets, Montaña Clara and Alegranza. Back in the day, these two islets were inhabited by six families who came to La Graciosa in the 80s.

Back to this fine-sand beach: the landscape is so wild you stay in awe for a good while! In my opinion, it’s not only the most beautiful beach on La Graciosa; it’s among the most beautiful in the Canaries. Needless to say, if you come to the island, this is a spot not to be missed.

However, even if you’re tempted to swim, swimming is currently prohibited. The flag is always red. It has become too dangerous because of the currents… And yes, seeing the size and force of the waves is impressive. Also, there are no bars, sunbeds or tourists here, just the sound of the waves and an unspoiled setting. That’s what makes the charm and beauty of Playa de las Conchas. If you love photography, you’ll be thrilled—the contrast between the blue water, golden sand and red volcanoes is unique!

To reach this wild, idyllic setting, count 2 hours on foot or 45 minutes by bike from Caleta de Sebo. The road is very rocky and there’s not a single bit of shade, so if you’re doing it on foot or by bike, be sure to bring water and a cap. It’s really essential—even if 45 minutes or 2 hours sounds short, out there it quickly feels long. We ran into some people who’d left with nothing, and we stopped with our guide to give them water. By the way, if, like me, you choose the 4×4 tour, Playa de las Conchas is of course part of the route!

In any case, I had a real crush on this beach. It was very beautiful to see! I recommend adding it to your stops when you visit La Graciosa.

After Playa de las Conchas, which is in the north of the island, I suggest discovering the south of the island. You’ll still find natural, desert landscapes, but different from those up north.

The first beach that deserves a photo stop and even a swim (when I went, the water was calm because it’s protected by a natural bay and you can stand for quite a while): Playa La Francesa. I did the south on foot, and this beach was a 35-minute walk from Caleta de Sebo. So it’s perfectly accessible, even if you have to walk in sand and rocks and there’s still no shade. On my end, it was cloudy at the time but windy, so it was more bearable than in full sun. Didn’t stop me from getting a sunburn though haha. On site, the sand is fine, the water is a good temperature (77°F/25°C), it’s really pleasant and still very calm.

What’s more, it’s one of the only beaches where you can swim safely on La Graciosa. You might as well take the opportunity for a swim-and-chill stop to cool off and then continue on your way. The water is transparent, you’ll see little fish under your feet, since it takes a while before you’re fully immersed. To give you even more details about the scenery, in the background you’ll see a few small boats and especially the coasts of Lanzarote.

If you continue further south, you’ll come across Playa La Cocina, at the foot of Montaña Amarilla (Yellow Mountain). Here, what stands out is the contrast between the ochre rock, the light sand and the turquoise water. If you want the best view, you can climb part of Montaña Amarilla—you’ll get several beautiful viewpoints.

In short, if you want to swim on La Graciosa while enjoying the island’s natural beauty, head to Playa La Francesa and Playa La Cocina. Plus, it’s the most accessible part of the island, because it’s close to Caleta de Sebo (remember, the island’s main village—if not the only one).

As I said at the start, this is where the La Graciosa adventure begins—it’s your point of arrival on the island. You’ll see, as soon as you reach Caleta de Sebo, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time. You arrive in a small village with sandy streets, white houses with blue or green shutters, and a few small boats at the port. You immediately sense it’s a place to disconnect, out of time. The atmosphere is simple and very local. Here, life moves to the rhythm of the wind and the ocean. We’re far from classic seaside resorts.

On the practical side, Caleta de Sebo is the island’s epicenter—everything goes through here. There’s the port, which is linked to Lanzarote. That’s what makes it the starting point for your visit to the island: bike rentals, 4×4 taxis called safaris (that’s what I took), small supermarkets, terraces, local restaurants, etc. Of course, you can see it all quickly, but it’s very pleasant to stroll around. And this is also where I completely reorganized my day to set off to fully discover the island.

If you haven’t planned a picnic, you can easily eat in small restaurants. It’s the perfect chance to eat fresh fish and for less than on Lanzarote. However, restaurants on the port are slightly more expensive than those inside the village. Personally, I tried Casa Enriqueta: I recommend it. It was good and very generous—enough to give me strength to hike in the south!

A few tips to enjoy Caleta de Sebo: I suggest taking a bit of time to stroll along the water and the port. Also, just below the port, there’s a small beach, Salado. Generally, the water is calm—you can take a dip before catching the ferry or if you’ve got time to spare.

In a few words, Caleta de Sebo is where there’s the most life on La Graciosa. You immediately feel the island’s vibe!

If you’re interested, you can also go diving from this little village!

For seasoned hikers or those who enjoy walking, I’ve prepared 4 accessible hiking routes to visit La Graciosa on foot. You can walk in peace without rushing, in complete disconnection. As I mentioned, doing the entire island on foot takes several hours and more than a day, so it won’t be possible unless you sleep there. Since travelers generally spend a one-day break there, I’m giving you alternatives. The trails are flat with very little elevation gain.

The biggest challenge is the heat, wind and lack of shade. But if you bring what you need and prepare a bit, the routes I’m suggesting are doable. Another small challenge: rocks and sand. Even though I only did the south on foot, my calves were burning by the end! I won’t keep you waiting—here are 4 accessible hikes on La Graciosa:

• From Caleta de Sebo to Playa de La Francesa then La Cocina / Montaña Amarilla:

This is the one I did and it’s without a doubt the most well-known and most popular. From the port, following the entire south coast, count about 35 minutes to Playa La Francesa. It sounds quick like that, but walking in sand and depending on the weather, it’s more physical than you think. On this beach, you’ll be rewarded by calm, turquoise water to relax and even swim. Continuing a bit further, there’s Playa La Cocina, at the foot of the famous Montaña Amarilla I mentioned above. It was a beautiful hike and a lovely end note to my day. And what struck me was the calm, and all along there was nothing but scenery and very few tourists en route…

• From Caleta de Sebo to Pedro Barba:

This is an even less-traveled hike to Pedro Barba, the island’s second village. It’s often the first step when doing a loop of several spots in the north. Quite a few travelers set off without water or snacks, thinking they’ll find a supermarket or grocery in Pedro Barba. But I’d rather warn you: Pedro Barba is even smaller than Caleta de Sebo.

There are only white houses facing the ocean, that’s it! There are also several tracks through the desert dunes. On site, there’s little life—I think we crossed paths with six tourists max. But the houses are very well maintained. Practically speaking, you still need to count 1h30 to 2h to reach Pedro Barba. In any case, it’s a pretty spot with a peaceful, pleasant atmosphere.

• From Caleta de Sebo to Playa de las Conchas:

If you absolutely want to see Playa de las Conchas, from Caleta de Sebo, expect 1h30 to 2h of walking depending on your pace. If you’re spending the day on the island and going up north on foot, you might only have time to see Playa de las Conchas. Honestly, it’s a magnificent spot. If you want to see the island’s wild side, go for this hike!

• More complete southern loop: Caleta de Sebo → Montaña Amarilla → Punta del Pobre → El Salado:

This hike is a bit longer than the first one I suggested in the south. Basically, if you want to extend your discovery of the south, just after Montaña Amarilla you can continue to Punta del Pobre. That’ll make it a more complete hike with varied discoveries and landscapes—fine sand, cliffs, transparent water, volcanoes and mountains.

Even though I’ve already mentioned it a bit, Pedro Barba is the island’s other village. It’s very charming—you feel good there! This village was the first stop on my 4×4 tour and the name alone intrigued me. Honestly, I wasn’t disappointed: the setting is natural, preserved, with small, nicely designed houses.

On the way, for about 1h30 to 2h, you’ll follow the coast with different viewpoints over the ocean and even the cliffs of Lanzarote. Otherwise, you can also go through the interior of the island to feel like you’re in a desert in the middle of sandy tracks. Whichever path you choose, I can guarantee you’ll love the scenery. And nothing stops you from taking one path there and the other on the way back.

Back to Pedro Barba—when I arrived, I felt like I was in a place out of time. It’s rare to find an inhabited village so well preserved without a 5-star hotel. For a bit of history, our local guide told us that in the 80s there was a project to build a resort nearby, but residents opposed it. That’s what kept the place intact and authentic. What also struck me is that on one side you have the more or less rough ocean, and on the other, the tranquility of the village.

Once again, even if I’m repeating myself a little, bring something to drink and eat, because you won’t find anything there. In any case, if you’re wondering whether Pedro Barba is worth it—the answer is yes! It’s a superb stop on your discovery of La Graciosa!

As we’ve always done, here’s all the practical stuff to know for visiting the island of Graciosa!

As you might guess, there aren’t a ton of options for getting to La Graciosa. You first need to be on Lanzarote and head to the north of the island, to the small port of Órzola. This is where ferries depart for Caleta de Sebo on La Graciosa. The crossing is rather quick, between 25 and 30 minutes (however, the day I went, it rocked quite a bit—watch out if you get seasick!).

Rest assured, there are ferries year-round and every day. Two companies operate the crossings: Biosfera Express and Líneas Romero. Between the two companies, there are departures and returns approximately every 30 minutes. That still gives you a lot of freedom. In practice, you just need to go to the website of the company of your choice to book your times in advance. You can also buy your ticket directly at the port ticket office. Personally, since I didn’t know how busy it would be, I preferred to book in advance with Biosfera Express.

A little tip: take the ferry as early as possible. For me, it was almost empty—and so was the island—when I arrived. Also plan to arrive a little before departure time, because boarding starts 15 minutes before. You’ll be able to park easily and, above all, for free near the port. But I think it’s more complicated in high season. It’s also possible to get combo bus (pick-up) + ferry to the island of La Graciosa.

Know that it’s possible to do organized day trips by boat, which can be really great too. I found these 2 excursions in particular with excellent feedback:

• Sailing excursion around La Graciosa: Full-day catamaran trip from Lanzarote to discover La Graciosa, including swimming, snorkeling, kayaking and lunch on board in a preserved natural setting.
• Island cruise with lunch and water activities: Catamaran cruise around La Graciosa with swimming, snorkeling, kayaking and lunch on board, in a festive and friendly atmosphere departing from Lanzarote.

As you might guess, the options for getting around La Graciosa are limited. First, forget the car: it doesn’t go on the ferry. And on the island of La Graciosa, the roads aren’t paved at all. They’re both sandy and rocky. Needless to say, a 4×4 is a must. Here are the options available to you:

• On foot: nothing simpler—you leave from Caleta de Sebo and choose your itinerary with the spots you absolutely want to see. Don’t forget the accessible itinerary ideas I gave you above! In practice, the trails are flat, but walking on rocks and sand is different from walking on pavement. It takes a bit more effort! At least with this option, you can go at your own pace, without rushing, and really enjoy the island’s wild atmosphere. Even just walking there is an experience. There’s nothing around but breathtaking scenery (and that feels good!).

• By bike: there are several types of bikes offered by rental shops: manual MTBs or with electric assist, fat bikes. Depending on your level and how you feel that day, you can choose what suits you best. But I’d rather warn you: I saw tourists take manual bikes because they were cheaper and then take longer than expected, missing some spots. That’s a shame. But it’s up to you! And by bike, you can also enjoy the island’s very special atmosphere. To give you an idea of prices: on average, count €10 for a manual bike and between €30 and €40 for an e-MTB or a fat bike, with all the gear of course. And in case of a flat, rental shops usually offer assistance—they won’t leave you alone in the middle of the island’s desert, haha.

• By 4×4 taxi (safaris): if you really want to tour the island, this is the fastest solution. For my part, I didn’t want to miss anything and that would have been impossible without a 4×4 taxi! Plus, it’s slightly cheaper than a bike with electric assist, about €30 per person. It also let me connect with a local guide who told me all sorts of anecdotes. It was really nice. Also included in the tour was the Arcos de los Caletones spot—just magnificent! A nice bonus of this type of tour is that at each stop you get free time to enjoy the place—you won’t be rushed. Since we arrived early, there were only two of us in the 4×4. It was just us and our guide—awesome.

Given the size of the island, you might think there aren’t many restaurants—but it’s quite the opposite! Well, I’m not saying there’s one on every corner either. But in Caleta de Sebo, there are a few. They’re all local and worthy of a good break after a hike or a day at the beach. However, we’re far from the big menus of tourist restaurants: think smaller menus with simple, local dishes made from fresh products. Earlier I gave you the name of a spot: Casa Enriqueta. I ate fresh fish and loved it. Little tip: if you want to avoid crowds, eat early—French-lunch time—around noon, and you’ll be more relaxed!

And to give you some ideas of specialties to try: grilled fish from local fishermen, pulpo a la plancha (grilled octopus), papas arrugadas with red and green mojo sauces (so good!), and Canary Islands goat cheese. See? Plenty to taste! If you prefer to picnic, there’s a grocery store and a bakery for sandwiches, empanadas or sweet snacks.

At the moment, there are no hotels or resorts on La Graciosa. Remember, locals opposed them to preserve the island’s authenticity. However, most accommodations are offered by locals: white houses or apartments in Caleta de Sebo or Pedro Barba. I think that’s what makes the experience even more immersive! If you want to disconnect, this is the time. For my part, even in just one day, I felt truly refreshed in a natural, exceptional setting.

Here are a few options to consider based on your budget:

High budget

• Flor de Cactus, La Graciosa: a spacious vacation home opening onto the ocean with only one sound: the waves. Makes you want to escape there for a few days, doesn’t it? Plus, it’s well equipped with a terrace (which is rare on La Graciosa, so make the most of it).
• Villa Relax, La Graciosa: Also in Caleta de Sebo, very close to the beach and the center, this villa (as its name suggests) invites relaxation and unwinding. With 4 bedrooms, a patio and a full kitchen, it’s ideal for a unique stay with family or friends.

Mid-range budget

• Apartamento Los Remos de la Graciosa: At the very end of the village of Caleta de Sebo, discover Los Remos, which brings a peaceful vibe to your vacation. With its terrace and breathtaking views of the sea and the mountains, it ticks a lot of boxes to fall under La Graciosa’s charm.
• Apartamentos El Marinero – Caletilla: In the center of Caleta de Sebo and right on the sand, the main strength of this apartment is its exceptional location facing the sea. Inside, the apartment is modern and bright—you’ll feel great!

Small budget

• Cruceta House: Located on a quiet street in Caleta de Sebo, here’s a large, bright apartment. Plus, it’s well equipped: terrace, kitchen with all the essentials. It’s a great value-for-money base—don’t miss it!
• Apartamentos Burgao: several well-equipped apartments, still in Caleta de Sebo, with panoramic views of the sea and mountains, very close to gorgeous coves and black rocks. I’ll let you imagine the sunrises and sunsets you can admire. A way to enjoy the island of La Graciosa without blowing the budget!

Since to get to La Graciosa you have to pass through Lanzarote, I suggest reading our article on: where to stay in Lanzarote. It’s a little helping hand for your planning! !

I’m reaching the end of this article on the island of La Graciosa. I hope you enjoyed the discovery and that you’ll take the time to add this almost desert island (no lush vegetation, not even palm trees or banana trees here—unlike other Canary Islands like La Gomera) and preserved spot to your Lanzarote itinerary. As for me, I know I’ll come back one day. It’s an island that really left a mark on me even though I only spent a day there.

For your info, it’s part of the Chinijo Archipelago Natural Park. It’s even the largest marine reserve in Europe. There’s a real focus on protecting underwater biodiversity, even if fishing is allowed. It’s monitored and only practiced by locals, in an artisanal and traditional way.

There, you take the time to discover, slow down and appreciate the raw landscapes, without any development: just golden sand, beaches, white houses, unpaved roads, mountains and volcanoes. I could go on, but I’ll stop here. One last tip for the road: don’t hesitate to check out our article on the budget to plan for a trip to Lanzarote.

Written by Laura CALLES

Thanks to Mélanie and Sylvain, I had the chance to discover the Canary Islands, specifically Tenerife and Lanzarote, so that I could share these island paradises with you. Two real favorites of mine!

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