The Matouba hot baths

We took advantage of the long weekends in May to get back out on the trails in Guadeloupe. We recently shared the story of a lovely, very short walk to Matouba Waterfall.

Don’t ask me why, but we decided to follow it up with the hike to the Matouba hot baths. Even though we live in Saint-Claude, we had never been there before. I’ll keep this article fairly short because, between you and me, there is not much reason to make the trip unless you simply want to stretch your legs…

We also have a page on the site dedicated to hiking in Guadeloupe!

Still, I decided to tell you about it in this short article so you know what to expect. It was a nice outing with the kids, who certainly burned off some energy, but if you’re looking for hot springs in Guadeloupe, there are far better, prettier, and easier-to-reach options than these baths, which are now little more than “showers”—and even that may be generous! I’m thinking in particular of the Bains Jaunes at the foot of La Soufrière.

Before getting into the hike itself, there is one thing you should know: two trails start from different locations. One begins at the Matouba forest house, while the other starts in Papaye, behind the Les Eaux-Vives Clinic. According to the current official trail information:

• From Papaye: 1.3 km and about 1 hour to the junction, followed by another 30 minutes to the baths
• From Matouba: 4.7 km round trip, taking about 3 hours

We had initially planned to start from Matouba, but the kids were already tired, so we chose Papaye, which was said to be the slightly shorter route.

As I mentioned, we set off from the village of Papaye. In four years of living here, this was our first time in the area—it really is tucked away at the very end of the road! We managed to park at the top of the street that climbs behind the Les Eaux-Vives Clinic, though you can also park at the bottom and walk up. It is only a short distance.

The trail begins right in front of us and is fairly well marked. We follow the route on Maps.me, an app that lets you navigate offline, and it works well. The walk starts through fields along a very slippery clay path that feels almost like an ice rink. I nearly smashed my camera on the ground…

The first stretch through the fields is quite pleasant. When you turn around, you get a beautiful view of the sea in good weather—which is fairly rare up here, haha! We make our way through thick patches of ferns, perhaps a sign that not many people use this side of the trail. The other route seems much busier, judging by the number of parked cars. We then enter the forest. It is a lovely section, with the path following the hillside beneath the trees, and, as always, the natural surroundings are beautiful. Keep your eyes open and you will spot plenty of things that may be common here but are always a pleasure to see: countless epiphytes, various birds, hummingbirds, beautiful ferns, and the famous “angel hair,” those long greenish mosses hanging from trunks and branches everywhere. One thing is certain: it is incredibly humid around here.

The trail crosses several ravines, so you need to watch your footing. Some sections are fragile, and you can see how quickly trees and parts of the hillside can give way. After about forty-five minutes, you cross Ravine Chaude, which, despite its name, is cold, haha! A wooden staircase leads down to it. About an hour after setting off, you finally reach the junction with the trail coming up from the Matouba forest house.

And that was the enjoyable part of the walk. The rest is much less fun…

A yellow sign says the Matouba hot baths are thirty minutes from the junction. I have to admit that the morning walk to Matouba Waterfall, combined with the hour we have just spent in the forest, is beginning to take its toll. What comes next is not especially enjoyable either. We are at an elevation of about 950 meters and will climb to around 1,050 meters. It is nothing extreme, of course, but the distance is short, the slope becomes steeper, and the uneven steps are enough to make your legs burn a little—which Mélanie loves, haha.

Although it did not really rain where we live, that clearly was not the case here. Everything is waterlogged, and there are several large puddles where keeping your feet dry is almost impossible…

The final climb is not particularly enjoyable and, unfortunately, disappointment sets in when we finally arrive thirty minutes later. We find an old facility fitted out with showers, but the site feels abandoned. The showers barely work, and only a trickle of boiling water runs from a pipe. There is not much to see, unfortunately, and the water is far too hot to stand beneath. At most, you might rinse your feet, haha!

In the end, we are disappointed but still glad to have made it because everyone is hungry. We eat our snack beneath the covered carbet. More groups gradually begin to arrive, and it soon feels a little too crowded for us, so we decide to head back down by the same trail. There is no other option…

For once, the descent is much faster: it takes us an hour to return to the car in Papaye.

So, is it the hike of the century? NO. Do we genuinely recommend it? ALSO NO, haha!

If you’re looking for a nice place to stay nearby, I recommend:

• Habitation La Reine du Camp: A guesthouse in a former colonial estate at the foot of La Soufrière, with sea and mountain views in a beautiful setting.
• Hôtel Saint-Georges: A 3-star hotel in Saint-Claude with a pool, comfortable rooms with balconies, and two restaurants.

Honestly, there are far better, more interesting, and easier options. For something completely different, we highly recommend exploring Moustique Canyon, an aquatic hike that follows a beautiful river through a narrow canyon. A magical outing!

See you soon,

Written by Sylvain PONS

Since 2021, I've been living in the Guadeloupe archipelago with Mélanie and our two children. We are exploring these beautiful islands and discovering the treasures that we are happy to share with you!

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