The yellow baths in Guadeloupe

Almost four years have passed since we moved to Guadeloupe, and nearly eight years since we started this travel and photography blog. A lot has changed for us, and we’ve always found it a bit tricky to write short, precise articles about specific places. I’m slowly adjusting the way I work, though, and it’s getting better. In this article, I’m going to tell you about a popular spot on Basse-Terre island: the Yellow Baths in Guadeloupe.

At first, writing an article about such a small place might seem a little odd, but many of you are looking for practical information to help plan your trip to Guadeloupe. Visitors to Basse-Terre often come through this area, especially when climbing the Soufrière volcano. Click the link above for everything you need to know about hiking this volcano.

As I was saying, I don’t want this to turn into a long article, but I’ll cover the main things you need to know about the Yellow Baths! We have since written a comprehensive guide to the hot springs in Guadeloupe. We have also written a short article about the Matouba Hot Springs, located in the hills above Saint-Claude.

To give you an idea of what to expect, the site is simply made up of two pools built into the slopes of the Soufrière volcano. Water flows naturally from the rock here at around 26 to 30°C, and the pools were created to collect it so people can bathe.

Today, they’re a classic stop for anyone climbing the volcano or hiking in the area. The site is obviously touristy in high season, but if you can look past the crowds, it’s still a beautiful place.

After hiking up La Soufrière or to La Chute du Galion, most people decide to stop here for a dip, and it often feels like a real treat. At the very least, you can soak your feet and stretch your legs. If you’re feeling more motivated, you can spend a little time fully immersed in these lovely pools.

You’re probably not here for a history lesson, but I thought a little background on the site might be useful. Without going into too much detail, here are the main points to remember:

• The site was inhabited long ago by Indigenous peoples, before the arrival of Europeans.
• In January 1885, Louis Adolphe Rollin, the former mayor of Vieux-Habitants, requested the creation of what is now known as the “Pas du Roy.” This is the famous paved path that leads from the Yellow Baths to the start of the Soufrière hike. It was originally built so the Count and Countess of Bardy could reach the summit of the volcano.
• In 1887, soldiers from the 2nd Marine Infantry Regiment built a stone basin, a convalescent home, and a shooting range.

I’d say there are two ways to look at it. If you come in the middle of the day during peak tourist season, the site can be absolutely packed, with twenty or thirty people in and around the pools. Not exactly the best atmosphere for relaxing and enjoying the natural setting!

That said, you can still enjoy it in peace if you come early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Many locals do this, and so do we: sometimes we drive up around 5:30 p.m., once almost all the visitors have left. Then you can spend fifteen quiet minutes lounging in the pools, surrounded by beautiful tropical vegetation. Even if it rains a little, the warm water feels great. I say “warm” because the water isn’t hot—not as hot as you might imagine, anyway!

As I mention below, be careful not to put your head under the water because of the potential presence of amoebas. This is clearly stated on site.

If you’d like to visit another pleasant spot that is less well known and less touristy, although that is starting to change, you could try the Bain des Amours hot spring in Gourbeyre. If you arrive very early, around 7 a.m., you may even have this idyllic setting all to yourself.

Since this is a short article, the practical section will focus on the most common questions.

They sit at 950 meters. Many of you have asked this question, so there’s your answer!

It all depends on where you’re starting from. The Yellow Baths are located in the municipality of Saint-Claude, in the south of Basse-Terre island. From Grande-Terre, with no traffic, allow around an hour. Here is the itinerary from the airport.

Parking is pretty straightforward too. There’s a small free parking area for around fifteen cars at the end of the road. The only issue, if you can call it that, is that it fills up quickly if you arrive too late, especially in the morning. If you get there around 9 or 10 a.m., it can be worth waiting a little at the top in the hope that someone only came for a quick swim and is about to leave. Sometimes it works! In most cases, though, arriving late means turning around at the small parking area and parking farther down the road, where hikers leave their cars before heading into Guadeloupe National Park.

As I mentioned earlier, you’ll find information on site when you arrive. Amoebas have been detected in this pool in the past, as well as in other natural hot-water bathing spots in Guadeloupe.

There’s no need to be paranoid, but you should obviously avoid putting your head under the water or swallowing it. The main risk is a condition known as PAM, or primary amoebic meningoencephalitis, which is almost always fatal. A child died from it in 2008.

If you’re traveling around Basse-Terre, there’s a good chance you’ll be staying somewhere nearby. You’ll find plenty of accommodations in the area, with options for different tastes and budgets.

We often recommend Bananes Vertes Écolodges: the property is set in the heart of a tropical garden and offers eco-designed bungalows and studios with kitchenettes, an outdoor pool, Wi-Fi, and free parking. The setting is peaceful, and the welcome is excellent.

You can also use the map below to find accommodation based on where you’d like to stay 🙂

It’s pretty simple: nature lovers will really enjoy exploring the landscapes and trails of Basse-Terre on foot. We even have a page listing all the hikes we’ve done since moving to Guadeloupe, with dedicated articles and GPS tracks.

Clearly, if you’re in this area, you absolutely have to climb La Soufrière and consider a few other nearby hikes. You can read our article on the subject. For those who are interested, I really recommend doing the ascent with a guide; it was amazing.

You can also go canyoning with Vert Intense, a local company that offers trips through beautiful canyons in the area. Our friend Valérie tried it for us; we’d love to do it ourselves too, haha!

Alright, I’ll stop here with the Yellow Baths in Guadeloupe. See you soon for a new article. If you’re in the middle of planning your trip, feel free to read our article on the cost of a trip to Guadeloupe.

Written by Sylvain PONS

Since 2021, I've been living in the Guadeloupe archipelago with Mélanie and our two children. We are exploring these beautiful islands and discovering the treasures that we are happy to share with you!

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