What to do on the island of Rurutu?

If you are visiting French Polynesia for a holiday, honeymoon or longer trip, why not consider discovering a more authentic island, far from the usual tourist route? When planning a trip to the Pacific Islands, most travelers and travel guides tend to focus on the classics: Bora Bora, often called the Pearl of the Pacific, with luxury hotels, white sand and coconut palms; the Tuamotu Archipelago, mainly for scuba diving in places like Rangiroa and Fakarava; and, for some travelers, the Leeward Islands such as Raiatea, Huahine and Maupiti. Very few people, wrongly in my opinion, venture out to the more remote archipelagos, such as the Marquesas, the Gambier Islands and the Austral Islands. Today, I want to share my advice on what to do on Rurutu Island, sometimes nicknamed the whale island! Like the beautiful island of Hiva Oa in the Marquesas, I know Rurutu well, as I have been there several times, especially for work. In this article, I’ll share the things you should not miss on Rurutu, in French Polynesia.

The island of Rurutu is particularly famous for whale watching in French Polynesia, and even internationally. It is one of the best places in the country to observe humpback whales without the same tourist crowds you may find elsewhere. Each year, during the southern winter, humpback whales come to Polynesian waters to mate, give birth and nurse their calves. The official whale-watching season in French Polynesia now runs roughly from late July to late November, with September and October often considered the best months for Rurutu.

During this period, you have a very good chance of seeing whales on a boat trip. If sea conditions are good and the authorized guide allows it, it may also be possible to enter the water and observe them while strictly respecting safety rules and current regulations. Spending a few hours snorkeling with only a mask, snorkel and fins near these animals is an unforgettable experience. If you have the right equipment, it is also a magical moment to capture on camera.

At the time of updating this article, whale-watching providers on Rurutu are still small local operators rather than large tourist structures. Ask your guesthouse before booking: they usually know who is operating, the current schedule and the right contact. Local names you may hear include Tareparepa Whales in Rurutu and Toatai Whales in the Tivai area. Public prices are not always easy to find online, but a typical outing lasts around 3 hours. Previous local rates were around 9,000 to 11,000 XPF per person, but I recommend confirming the current price directly with your accommodation or the provider before you go.

In any case, if you come to Rurutu during whale season, do not miss this magical experience. And who knows, with a little luck, you may even see a calf with its mother.

Take the time to drive around the island and admire the superb views over the ocean and limestone cliffs. In particular, don’t miss:

• The viewpoint after leaving Moerai toward the airport, which offers a spectacular view of the eroded coastal cliffs and Moerai Bay,
• The viewpoint at the foot of the Matotea cliff, also known as the White Cliff, a large basalt cliff covered with lichens, with a beautiful view over the bay and the village of Avera.

Some of the island’s guesthouses, including Le Manotel and Pension Teautamatea, offer 4×4 day trips to discover the island’s beauty, both along the coast and inland. Count about 6,500 XPF for a day trip.

Because of its unusual geology, Rurutu is full of caves and cavities. You can see them all around the island, although most are not clearly signposted. That is why I recommend visiting some of them with your guesthouse or a local guide.

The most famous cave on the island is known as the Mitterrand Cave, or Ana Aeo in the local language. It became famous after the visit of the French president in 1990. It is the largest cave on the island, and you can see many stalactites and stalagmites inside. Access is from the main road in Vitaria. Drive slowly: a red inscription on a stone helps you spot the entrance.

You can also spot Ana Tane’uapoto Cave from the roadside when leaving Moerai, just before reaching the viewpoint on your left. The cave is accessible via a small staircase on your right and offers a beautiful view over the turquoise lagoon. In this idyllic setting, you can also enjoy the lagoon, marine life and coral by bringing your mask, snorkel and fins.

Other caves can be found around the island, but they are harder to visit on your own. Along the road around Rurutu, you will also see magnificent limestone cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It is definitely one of the best things to do on Rurutu Island.

The Austral Islands, like the Marquesas, were once well known for horses. On Rurutu, you will still see them everywhere. One local provider offers horseback rides on the island. Viriamu, from Pension Teautamatea, can help you discover the joy of riding along island trails, through dense vegetation and even by the sea.

You can contact the guesthouse directly through their website or Facebook. The previous rate I had was around 7,500 XPF for a 2- to 3-hour ride, but as prices can change, check the current rate directly with the pension before booking.

It is one of the fun things to do on Rurutu Island!

Rurutu is particularly well known in French Polynesia for taro production. This famous root vegetable is very popular with local residents and is still often used in traditional meals.

Whether you are walking, cycling or driving, you will have opportunities to see the large taro fields, often located in wetland areas. You will also notice the network of canals used for irrigation.

It is one of the island’s specific features and is worth a look. Enjoy a walk through the lush inland areas to observe them.

With Viriamu’s permission, from Pension Teautamatea, you can visit Marae Ta’aroa, considered one of the largest marae in the Austral Islands. Viriamu helps look after the site, and discovering it with someone who knows the place adds a lot to the visit.

Marae were ancient Polynesian sacred places. They played a cultural, social, political and religious role in traditional Polynesian society.

Rurutu has some very nice hikes, often through lush tropical vegetation, but unfortunately the trails are not always well marked.

From the most recent information I had on the island, there is a hiking guide who can help you, especially if you want to go to Mount Manureva.

You can contact him directly through his Facebook profile. He can take you to some of the most beautiful places on the island.

On your own, you can also walk to the superb viewpoint on the cliffs north of the village of Moerai.

Access is via the secondary road behind the town hall. Continue along the dirt road that climbs up the hill for about 30 minutes, keeping left. At some point, you reach a flatter area and will see a path going up toward the antennas on your right. From the antennas, follow the small trail along the cliff for about 5 minutes and enjoy the great view over the taro fields and Moerai.

Rurutu is also famous for its basketry, weaving, mats and tifaifai, the large hand-sewn patchwork blankets that are so typical of French Polynesia. You can find them in many homes on the island.

For basketry, you can buy beautiful handmade bags or hats made from pandanus leaves, either in the craft shop or in the villages of Hauti, near the town hall, and Avera, in the shop behind the town hall.

Rurutu also has beautiful white-sand beaches. The most beautiful and best known is in the south of the island, in the village of Naairoa. Toataratara Beach offers a stunning stretch of white sand with a view of four small limestone islets. Swimming here, along the shore and around the raised coral islets, is a lovely experience. It is a peaceful, relaxing and almost magical place to enjoy during your trip. I should also mention that there is no black-sand beach on this French Polynesian island.

There are other small beaches around the island, especially near Vitaria or along the road to Peva.

They are clearly among the places to see in Rurutu.

As one last thing to do on the island, especially if you like history, go for a walk to Eric de Bisschop’s grave. This navigator, buried in Moerai cemetery according to his last wishes, sailed across several oceans. One of his achievements was sailing from Cannes, in France, to Honolulu, Hawaii, between 1937 and 1938 on a traditional handmade Polynesian-style outrigger canoe.

To reach French Polynesia, you will first need to fly to Tahiti, arriving in Papeete. I recommend having a look at this great flight comparison tool to find the cheapest flight from where you live. I have been using it for at least 10 years now.

From the US, one of the most practical ways to reach French Polynesia is often via a San Francisco – Papeete flight. If you are flexible with your dates, you may find better prices by comparing several days and nearby airports. If you live far from San Francisco, I would recommend first checking a flight from your nearest major city to San Francisco.

From Canada, for now at least, one option is often to take a flight from a major Canadian city to San Francisco and then another flight from San Francisco to Papeete. Prices vary a lot depending on the season, so it is always worth comparing dates rather than relying on a fixed estimate.

Once you reach Tahiti, the easiest way to get to Rurutu is to take a direct Air Tahiti flight from Tahiti to Rurutu. The direct flight takes about 1 hour 30 minutes. At the time of this update, Air Tahiti was displaying Rurutu round-trip fares from around 74,836 XPF, including taxes. Prices can obviously vary depending on dates, fare class and availability. Yes, I know, domestic flights in French Polynesia are expensive considering the distance covered!

Rurutu has several family guesthouses and small accommodations.

I personally tested the Teautamatea guesthouse, run by Viriamu and his wife. The pension was simple but very pleasant, with everything you need and a very warm welcome from our hosts. If you stay there, you can enjoy excellent home-cooked meals. Viriamu also offers horseback rides and can help organize a tour of the island. More details are available on their website and Facebook. I would recommend them without hesitation. According to the latest public information I found, Pension Teautamatea offers 3 rooms with private bathrooms, with rates listed at 9,990 XPF per night for one person and 15,280 XPF per night for two people, including half-board and airport transfers. As always, confirm the current rate before booking.

There are other guesthouses I haven’t had a chance to test. In a few words:

• Chez Rudy – Heiata Guesthouse: located in the center of Moerai, although everything is relative on Rurutu, with a few simple rooms and the option of half-board.
• Vaitumu Village Guesthouse: located near the airport, this place offers a beautiful setting with a white-sand beach, a colorful garden, a pool and ocean-facing bungalows. It is more comfortable than a very basic pension and can be a good option if you want a higher level of service.
• Le Manotel: a well-known seafront guesthouse near Moerai, with comfortable bungalows and local cuisine. It is a good base for discovering Rurutu thanks to its warm welcome and excursions.

If you are already in Tahiti, you can also look at the “Séjours dans les Îles” website. It offers flight + accommodation packages for some island pensions, which can sometimes be cheaper than organizing everything separately yourself.

If you stay in one of the guesthouses, you will most likely be on a half-board basis. In any case, you can buy food in the island’s shops, located in the three main villages: Moerai, Hauti and Avera. You will find the essentials there.

There is also a pizzeria on the island that is pretty good, although it is not always open. Food lovers should also know that there is a pastry shop along the main road in the village.

When it comes to getting around Rurutu, the island is fairly large and too hilly to explore entirely on foot. Motivated travelers may be able to visit by bicycle, but keep in mind that part of the road is still not paved between Narui, in the south, and Hauti, in the east.

Hitchhiking is possible on the island, although some roads become much quieter once you move away from Moerai.

The easiest way to visit different parts of the island is usually through your guesthouse, either with a guided tour or arranged transfers.

It is also possible to rent a car or arrange transfers locally. For example, Vaitumu Village publishes transfer rates from the pension to several parts of the island, ranging from about 500 XPF per person per trip to Moerai to around 2,000 XPF per person per trip for Naairoa or Narui. Ask your pension for the latest information and current rates.

That brings us to the end of my article about what to do in Rurutu, French Polynesia. It is not the largest island, but it is an authentic Polynesian island in the South Pacific, and I really recommend visiting it for its local character, lush landscapes, whale watching, beautiful white-sand beaches and peaceful atmosphere, with no or very few tourists. I especially recommend it to travelers looking for a taste of “real French Polynesia.” It was my child’s first trip, by the way. Are you traveling with a baby to French Polynesia? Here is the information you need to know!

I hope you enjoyed this article on the things to do in Rurutu. If so, feel free to share it on your social networks. If you have any questions about Rurutu Island, please leave me a comment.

See you soon,

Sylvain

Written by Sylvain PONS

From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.

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