Discovering the Valombreuse botanical garden

It took a visit from Mélanie’s sister and her family for me to finally decide to write an article about the famous Valombreuse botanical garden. I had already visited the garden with her mother in early 2022, but I really didn’t have time to write down what I saw and let you know how I felt about the place. We’ve been living in Guadeloupe for a year now as I write this article, and I’ve (finally) decided to switch gears and write more and more about Guadeloupe and its islands. It has to be said that I have far too many overdue articles, especially about all the walking we’ve done in Guadeloupe. Indeed, the link above will take you to the articles on all the walks we’ve done since we’ve lived here.

In short, if you’ve decided to go on holiday to Guadeloupe, there’s a very good chance that a visit to one or more of the botanical gardens will be on your agenda. There are many small places to visit in Guadeloupe, but to summarise, there are really two major botanical gardens, the first being the Deshaies Botanical Garden and the second being the famous Valombreuse Garden, which I’ll tell you about in this article.

You’ll probably have to choose between the two botanic gardens if you’re short on time during your holiday in Guadeloupe. I’m going to give you my opinion on the matter, although it’s far from easy, as I think the two botanic gardens are very different. As I said in the introduction, our family visit to this garden was before the evening’s visit to the Lézarde beers in Petit-Bourg. I’m not going to write an article about this place (haha, that would be a bit alcoholic, I think), but it’s definitely a place that I would recommend. I’ll tell you more about it below.

In this article, I’ll be taking you on a tour of the picturesque garden, which in my opinion is a must on any trip here. In a change from my usual style, I’m not going to write a piece of bread, as the saying goes, but rather try to inspire you with pictures. You’ll find all the practical information you need to visit this garden at the end of this article. Come on, let’s get going! I’m going to take you on a tour of this breathtaking 5 hectare tropical garden! For the record, it was after Hurricane Hugo destroyed the entire farm in 1989 that Madame Magguy Chaulet decided to open this magnificent garden to show visitors the local vegetation, some remarkable trees and a huge variety of flowers!

As is often the case in botanical gardens, the Valombreuse botanical garden is divided into themes. I’ll explain what to see in this botanical garden. You’ll be able to find them and follow the tour on a map you’ll get at the entrance. Between you and me, there’s only one way to visit and no chance of getting lost (lucky you, eh?). We already know the breathtaking place, but Stéphanie and her little family are delighted to be here and to discover the tropical flora and fauna.

The Valombreuse botanical garden is unique for its small electric train which offers a 10-minute ride through the garden and its history. We’ll give you a brief tour of the different areas. You can then explore them on foot at your leisure. We’ll also tell you some interesting facts about the history of the Garden’s development and remind you that no pesticides are used throughout the Garden. This will give you an idea of what to expect afterwards, bearing in mind that the electric train doesn’t go everywhere.

Once we’d had our little tourist tour (dare I say!), we set off on foot to rediscover this beautiful garden, which I love as much as the Deshaies one. It is smaller, but I like it just as much, because it has its own character. The garden begins by taking the little train path.
On your right, you will see a huge fromager, a tree so characteristic with its huge aerial roots that it can be found in many corners of Guadeloupe. A little further on, you can visit the Magic Garden, where many of the medicinal plants used here are displayed. The walking tour continues to the Exotic Garden, where you can see a huge number of plants and trees, each as beautiful as the next. For those who haven’t been there before, it is a sight to behold and a pleasure to discover all its beauty.

You come to what I like to call the “hanging garden” and a series of water basins once you’ve crossed the little railway line. There are a huge number of plants hanging in the air, suspended above the void. On the ground you can see a huge variety of cacti, each with its own crazy shapes and needles. It slightly reminds me of the magnificent botanical garden on Désirade Island. The corner is quite nice if you like taking pictures. There’s also a small photo corner. There’s a statue by Luigi Art Design.

The walking-tour continues towards the biodiversity area. In a small house, you’ll find information about the local biodiversity and the history of the garden of the Valombreuse. If you’ve got time, there’s even a film to explain it all. Follow the path to the famous Creole hut, known as the seminar room. In front of it, you will see large ponds where many koi carp bask. For a small €0.50 coin you can feed the fish to the children’s amusement. Don’t miss the huge hummingbird statue next to the pond. (Just between us, if you miss it, you’ll need to see an optician!) Take a few minutes to visit this small shed filled with artifacts from yesteryear, including paraffin lamps, dry latrines and a sewing machine.

Pass Magguy’s house and continue your tour of the garden. On your left you can see a beautiful pond with a boat in the water. It’s quite photogenic. The path climbs back up to a carbet, which offers a small viewpoint over the surrounding area (beautiful landscapes) and reminds us of the distance of the surrounding islands. Nothing too crazy. You can then take a leisurely stroll back down to the playground. There is also a playground at the end of the Deshaies garden, which is one of the special features of this garden. Here you will find slides, swings (in the open air) and a complete play room. The latter is covered. This is a good idea when the weather is bad.

Inside, there’s a high ropes course with nets for children aged 3 to 12. Children can also enjoy a pedal car circuit that makes a loop. The only problem, as you can see, is that the kids never want to leave. I even have to get angry to get Louis to move on… it has to be said that at this age, it’s still more fun to go round in pedal cars than to look at porcelain roses… Anyway…

We continue downhill to see some of the local wildlife. It’s a really nice place, with lots of ponds full of water lilies. You can see several breeds of parrots (macaws) in cages (unfortunately we don’t have much choice at the moment…), and as we continue our walk there is also an aviary with flamingos and ibises. It’s a peaceful place (a lot of tranquility), although I have to admit that I’d still prefer to see these birds in their natural habitat with magnificent plants…

We continue our walk towards a pond with lotus flowers, past a beautiful baobab and a ylang ylang, both reminders of our former life in Mayotte (when we didn’t yet have children, haha). The footpath continues towards the end of the garden, giving you the chance to see many species of tropical plants and trees, particularly in a small palm grove. Note the huge palm trees on the right. Porcelain roses – red, pink and even the rare white – fill the rest of the garden. Keep an eye out for hummingbirds pecking at the roses. I was lucky enough to get a close-up of one. I’m quite pleased with the result!

Finally, we crossed back over the little railway line to finish our walk in the melliferous zone. This is known for the large number of bees that come to collect food from the local flowers.

On our first visit, it was possible to walk to a small waterfall in the middle of the rainforest, but access was closed on this occasion. I don’t know if it’s the rainy season or not? I’ll find out.

The walk ends with the crossing of two aviaries where you can get close to lorikeets, the same ones as in the Deshaies garden! As the walk forms a loop, you can retrace your steps. There’s also a souvenir shop for those who want to buy a little something.

So much for the short walk. To be honest, the Valombreuse Garden is well worth a visit and a great way to discover the local flora and fauna for the visitors who want to discover a botanical garden with tranquility. Admittedly, it’s a little smaller (I think) than the Deshaies garden, but it’s just as beautiful.

If you’re looking for another nice place to visit on your trip to Guadeloupe, don’t hesitate to take a trip to the Maison du Cacao.

Here is all the information you’ll need for the tour garden.

The Jardin de Valombreuse is open all year round from 9 am to 6 pm, with the last admission at 4.30 pm.

All prices:

• Adult ticket: €16,50
• Children’s ticket: €11 (from 3 to 12 years)
• Group rates for 10 or more people

Note that for residents like us who visit several times a year, when family or friends visit, there is an attractive season ticket. The price is €30 for 1 year (adults) and €20 for children, from the date of purchase.

Finally, for tourists and those who want to visit a lot of places in Guadeloupe, there are two interesting passes:

• The Caribbean Pass: this allows you to visit 4 parks (Guadeloupe Zoo, L’Habitation côte sous le Vent, the Musée du Café and the Jardin de Valombreuse) – Price: €34.90 / adult and €18.90 / child,
• The Nature Pass: Guadeloupe Aquarium + Guadeloupe Zoo + Jardin de Valombreuse (€39 / €23 per adult/child).

Between you and me, I wouldn’t really recommend the Nature Pass, as the Guadeloupe Aquarium seems to me to be more than ordinary and not really very interesting. I wouldn’t even write an article about it, haha.

We also wrote a comprehensive article to show you what the Guadeloupe Zoo is like!

Just a few words about the excursion and exploration to the garden, because as far as I know it doesn’t really offer any extra services. There is, however, a restaurant on site, although I don’t really have an opinion on it as I haven’t had a taste of it! If you have tried it, don’t hesitate to leave a comment at the end of the article.

The first place to go is here, of course. In fact, I’ve written a whole article on the Guadeloupe travel route, with all the options. For the sake of simplicity and flexibility, you can find tickets from Paris for about €400 on a direct flight.

Once you’re here, car hire is a must for your holiday here in Guadeloupe. Frankly, it’s the best way to be independent.

Access to the Valombreuse garden is fairly straightforward, but it does depend on your point of arrival. The herb garden is located in the commune of Petit-Bourg on the east coast of the island of Basse-Terre. It’s about half an hour’s drive from Pointe-à-Pitre. The road to get there isn’t the easiest, as you have to drive quite inland, but it’s well signposted.

The area is famous for its many attractive places. Here are just a few of the classics:

• A short walk to a beautiful (admittedly crowded) waterfall, the Saut de la Lézarde. And don’t miss a stop at the famous Lézarde craft beers, just next door, a wonderful experience in a beautiful green setting,
• Close by, we did the lovely walk to the Canyon Moustique, a water-based walk that takes you into a gorge deep in the forest,
• If you take the cross-country route, you can stop at the Maison de la Forêt and take a look at the overly touristy Cascade des écrevisses, which is of little interest. Between you and me, there are other very beautiful waterfalls with far fewer people.

Having ‘almost arrived’ here in Guadeloupe (a year ago at the time of writing), I haven’t yet had the chance to discover everything in the area, but I will!

There are lots of places to recommend that we’ve heard more or less about since we’ve been here. I invite you to have a look at the accommodation in Petit-Bourg to get an idea. But here are a few recommendations right next to the herb garden:

• La Vallée de Diane: a gorgeous holiday home with stunning views of the surroundings,
• L’Ylang Ylang: another gîte known for its beautiful blue colours,
• Villa Bois Rose: a beautiful one-bedroom villa for the perfect family holiday, all with a lovely outdoor pool.

I’ve come to the end of this article about Guadeloupe. I hope you’ve enjoyed this stroll through the Valombreuse garden and that you’ll want to explore the area during your holiday here! I think it’s a beautiful place. It’s well worth a visit!

You can take a stroll around the Bassin Bleu on the island of Basse-Terre in Guadeloupe to discover a beautiful spot.

See you soon.

Written by Sylvain PONS

Since 2021, I've been living in the Guadeloupe archipelago with Mélanie and our two children. We are exploring these beautiful islands and discovering the treasures that we are happy to share with you!

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