It was in the early 2010’s that mirrorless cameras began to appear in the photography market. The models of the time, with their 4/3 micro sensor, took time to become well known as it was difficult for these new cameras to find their place among the existing ranges of classic cameras: compact, bridge, DSLR cameras.
But over time, with the arrival of the first APS-C bodies and electronic viewfinders, mirrorless cameras have captured more space in the market. Due to the fact that some DSLRs can be too heavy, expensive, compact camera of poor quality, mirrorless cameras have managed to gain an edge. Indeed, so much so, that many people consider them now, regardless of whether they are beginners for their first camera or professionals for their work.
After the article about guiding you on the best camera for travel, here is an article that will help you to understand the purchase of your future mirrorless camera. How to decide, based on certain criteria, which mirrorless camera to choose. I will try to update this article every year to include new models.
The idea is not really to give you an exhaustive comparison of everything that is being made in terms of mirrorless cameras (it’s impossible!), but to guide you in making your choice. As with DSLR cameras, a balance will often have to be found between your desires, your real needs and your budget. So let’s try to find out together what the best mirrorless camera is for you! A big thanks to Alex for his corrections, clarifications, add-ons and especially for helping me in writing this article!
Date of update: 30/08/2019
Let’s start at the beginning. What exactly is a mirrorless camera? You will find it under several different names: mirrorless interchangeable-lens camera (MILC), mirrorless camera (without mirror), DSLM (digital single lens mirrorless) or EVIL (electronic viewfinder interchangeable lens).
To summarize briefly, the mirrorless camera does not have a mirror, like the DSLR, so no optical viewfinder (digital screen on the back or electronic viewfinder) and allows the possibility to change lenses. Many say it’s the ideal balance between a compact and a DSLR camera. This is less and less true with the arrival of expert mirrorless cameras of very high quality, in Full Frame, for instance. However, you have understood the idea, a small body (bigger than a compact but smaller than a DSLR) on which you can adapt several lenses. It is closer to a compact camera in terms of ergonomics but with features and image quality similar to DSLRs.
To put it simply, there are roughly 3 sensor sizes available for mirrorless cameras:
- The Micro 4/3: it is the smallest sensor found in mirrorless camera and the one at the origin of this type of camera (Size: 13 x 17.3). It is referred to as “MTF” – Micro Four Third),
- The APS-C format: it is the same format as found on all entry-level cameras or some experts in DSLR (Size: 15 x 22),
- Full-Frame: this is the historical format of silver film, which is found on mirrorless cameras, the same as on a Full Frame DSLRs (Size: 24 x 36).
We will see below in which proportion the size of the sensor influences the image quality and what possibilities it gives in terms of photography.
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Let’s quickly review the advantages of a DSLM:
- Weight: this is an issue that comes up often for many people. Most of the time, the whole thing will always be lighter than a DSLR camera, at least for entry-level cameras. However, it will be almost equivalent for mirrorless Full Frame bodies with good quality lenses. The weight depends mainly on the size of the sensor but also on the range of the body (for example a GX800 weighs 240g, a GX9 410g and a GH5s 580g, all in Micro 4/3).
- Compactness: clearly, the fact that they do not have a mirror means that manufacturers have managed to fit great DSLM into small bodies, which is ideal for those who are looking for a light and compact body. Handling and shooting is often considered easier.
- A large sensor: it is obviously necessary to understand in comparison to compact cameras that have much smaller sensors and whose image quality is clearly questionable. Mirrorless cameras have sensors that are large enough to produce good quality photos. Everyone will judge the relevance of choosing at least an APS-C (which I recommend personally) or a Micro 4/3 (optical range shared by the two MFT players who also offer quite different types of bodies in terms of aesthetics and ergonomics that give you more options). We will come back to this later, but to be honest, choosing between a compact/bridge and an EVIL, is a no brainer!
- Interchangeable lenses: this is clearly a plus over compact and bridge cameras that are limited to a single lens. We are getting closer to the advantage of having a DSLR but in a lighter and more compact body.
- Quality: everyone now agrees that the quality of some mirrorless cameras is getting closer or even better than that of some DSLR cameras. The image quality will therefore be identical on a sensor similar to DSLRs.
- A depth of field equivalent to DSLR: if you don’t know the term, it’s simply the sharpness area of the image. Having a short depth of field makes it easier to isolate the subject. The arrival of APS-C and Full-Frame mirrorless cameras now guarantees an equivalent depth of field. Be careful, the Micro 4/3 sensor (Olympus and most Panasonic mirrorless camera) is smaller than the ones found on DSLRs. Some brands like Fuji only offer APS-C format.
- Discretion: clearly, it’s a big difference compared to the DSLR because walking around with my 6D + 70-300mm is not the same as with a small entry-level mirrorless. However, large mirrorless cameras combined with quality optics will frankly not be very discreet either… For small mirrorless cameras, you will be more unnoticeable, people will be less wary and carrying a mirrorless in crowded spots will be a plus (market, crowds, etc..). The attention is less focused on you and let’s just say that’s a good thing…
As with DSLR cameras, I never really recommend one brand over another, even if on DSLR cameras, I often suggest to stay with Canon and Nikon. This is because they are the two big brands and therefore have the most lenses and thus the most choice and possibilities! The only other real option is Pentax, so that makes it easier.
After a long time of being dominated by Sony, the world of mirrorless cameras has gradually opened up to other brands. Among the best-known brands are Sony, Panasonic, Fujifilm, Olympus, Canon and Nikon.
The two leading brands in the mirrorless market remain Sony and Fujifilm/Panasonic, both of which offer a large number of native lenses. This is important to know because depending on what you want to do in photography (sport, macrophotography, wildlife, etc.), you will generally have more choices with them.
Overall, it is often the budget that will determine when you start out with a mirrorless camera, so there is a good chance that Full Frame sensors will be too expensive and oversized. This is something many people try to avoid (Sony, Canon and Nikon). However, these brands offer excellent bodies at very reasonable prices that may be enough for you to start with.
To conclude, I would say that besides the budget, you should mostly look if the brand offers lenses that you are interested in and that would be adapted to your photographic practice (low light, sport, etc.). If you plan to shoot in difficult lighting conditions and you have enough money, I would advise you to choose a full frame format camera. It’s a matter of taste !
I mention here all the decisive criteria that I think should be known when choosing a mirrorless camera. I will not talk about the budget here, even if for many of you it is indeed the most important element. For those who have a little more budget and those wishing to make a well thought out choice on the technical aspects, this is basically the most important thing.
In my opinion, this is the most important aspect of a mirrorless camera, because not all of them are at the same level in this area. I would say that you can get the quality of a DSLR using a mirrorless camera if you have the same sensor size. It should be noted that almost all entry-level mirrorless cameras (Olympus MILC and the majority of Panasonic) have smaller sensors (often in Micro 4/3), than those of DSLRs.
In fact, to make things even more precise, micro 4/3 (mFT) sensors are half as small in diagonal and four times smaller in surface area than a full-frame sensor. You are going to tell me, so what? Remember that you won’t be able to compare a focal length, a maximum aperture or a rise in ISO between two different sensor sizes. The result will not be the same at all, due to the size of the sensors. Due to its small size, the mFT will be less adapted to produce background blur. Indeed, with the same max. aperture as a full-frame sensor of f/2.8 (for example), the depth of field will be much larger on an mFT and it will therefore be more difficult to highlight the subject from the background. A maximum aperture of f/1.4 in mFT is roughly equivalent to f/2.8 in full-frame (about 2 stops). The rise in ISO will also be “problematic”. An ISO1600 in mFT is still equivalent to ISO6400 on a full frame sensor.
Personally, if you can afford it, I would recommend choosing a mirrorless camera with an APS-C sensor. But it remains a very subjective view and not a guaranteed fact, I grant you that.
In my opinion, this is the second most essential point to look at when making your purchase. Not all brands are equal in this area and clearly some of them offer a greater diversity of products. Canon and Nikon, who have recently switched to high-end mirrorless cameras, are lagging behind in terms of lens choice.
For the lenses, you will have to look at the number of optics but especially if the brand has what you are interested in, in particular for specific areas (macrophotography, sports, wildlife). Most of the time, brands offer lenses dedicated to the sensor they offer, with sometimes some compatibility between formats. If you choose a Full Frame camera, and you are looking for a transtandard lens, you will choose a 24-70mm. In APS-C, it will be a 16-55mm, and in Micro 4/3, a 12-35mm (as you see the Micro 4/3 sensor is half as small as a full frame sensor -> 12-35mm x 2 = 24-70mm)
To go further, I invite you to read my ultimate guide on which mirrorless lenses to choose! Also remember that some brands are compatible with each other (Panasonic and Olympus on Micro 4/3). Adaptation rings are also available to use other lenses….
Some cameras now offer stabilization integrated into the sensor, which can be a plus, especially for video and under certain difficult conditions in photography. I am thinking in particular of fixed subjects in low light (sunrise/sunset, concert ( although subjects aren’t often fixed in concert) night, etc.) and with long focal length lenses (telephoto lens). The Sony A7 range, for example, offers cameras with 5-axis sensor stabilization that can be combined with the stabilization of some lenses. I’m not a great video artist, but those who own a stabilized body say it’s great.
These are two important points that will often be directly related to the price of the bodies. In general, we can summarize the following: the larger the sensors will be (from Micro 4/3 -> APS-C -> Full frame), the heavier, more expensive and larger the bodies will be. However, the more you move up the range, the more you can get tropicalized/waterproof cameras, which, depending on your regular shooting conditions, can be very attractive. On the ergonomic side, make sure you take a good look at the menus and how they work by taking a few laps around the stores or looking for advice on the forums.
For a lot of people, this is a crucial point (even if it’s not in my case!). All video makers agree that the arrival of mirrorless cameras (without mirrors!) has made the difference for those who want to produce “beautiful videos” with this type of camera. The proof is that manufacturers are increasingly offering 4K and even 6K modes on some mirrorless cameras, or even cameras made for video such as the GH5s. We were already talking about it above, but focusing on a stabilized camera coupled with stabilized lenses would also be a clear advantage for those wishing to film. The 180° rotating screens would also be a plus for some shots.
I will not go into all the technical details that are taken into account, but you can look in detail at all the specific points to choose your DSLR camera. The elements are also valid for mirrorless cameras, namely: the definition of the body, ISO, focus point, auto focus, burst….
Let’s now get to the heart of the matter for when you are choosing a mirrorless camera. The most difficult point is to recommend a camera according to the criteria mentioned above. Moreover, the suggestions below are based on my experience and on dozens of hours (or even more) of research, comparing and contrasting, the different models of the brands (and with Alex’s precious help too!). In concrete terms, I pulled my hair out quite a bit to make this selection.
To make your task easier, I have divided my recommendations into 4 elements of choice, which I believe are essential. We can therefore choose our mirrorless camera according to:
The most important thing for me is really to make a well-considered choice, whether it is based on your budget or your needs. I admit that sometimes I first choose based on my wants, which does not prevent me from having made a thought through choice beforehand. For example, I once gave in to a wide-angle DSLR lens, the Canon 16-35mm f/4, which I had been longing for a long time.
Remember also one thing, the choice of your lens will also influence your images, even if the choice of its body remains very important. For example, a good lens with a body whose auto focus does not catch the subject will give you bad images for sports and wildlife. A good quality and bright lens is expensive, so it will be an additional budget to plan according to your camera. Of course, you can buy a camera + lens kit, which will often be cheaper without guaranteeing a quality lens… I would not focus on high-end mirrorless cameras, which will only interest a small portion of the people who will read this article.
We will not hide the fact that the majority of readers will be limited by their budget. Unfortunately, not all of us have an infinite budget for a camera, as photography is a hobby for most of us.
Bodies’ on their own start as low as 250€. At this price, of course, you don’t want to expect it to be a miracle-maker and the camera will quickly reach its limits. But for people looking for a cheap, compact, lightweight and casual camera for easy conditions, this may well be enough. Indeed, this will mainly restrict to bodies with a Micro 4/3 and smaller sensor.
- The Canon EOS M10: This is an 18-million-pixel APS-C model (rare in this price range), with a large swivel touch screen, wifi and NFC, among other features. It is sold bare body but also in kit form with the 15-45mm STM lens.
- The Panasonic DMC-GM1: It is a model with a Micro 4/3 sensor (smaller than the Canon) of 16m pixels. It is really very light and compact. It could be coupled with the excellent Panasonic Lumix G 25mm f/1.7 lens, a classic and bright lens.
In general, I really recommend that you save up to go up to the higher range (minimum of 500€). The two models above remain good models (for the price), but they are not recent in any case.
At this price range, we are considering cameras that I think are starting to be more interesting. There are very good references. At this price, less than 500€, you can get some serious APS-C bodies, even if they are bodies that are already a few years old. Here are 4 good references that I recommend: the Sony A5100, the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III, the Fujifilm X-T100 and finally the Panasonic Lumix GX80
- The Sony A5100: equipped with an APS-C sensor of 24 million pixels, remains in my opinion a good reference even if it is beginning to be a bit dated. It features a 180° swivel screen (for video) and an autofocus system known for its speed. It comes as a Kit with a Sony 16-50mm lens. The question to ask yourself is whether it is worth it to move on to the top range (A6000) for not much difference in terms of price, which I would probably recommend (we come back to it).
- The Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III: Released in 2017, this model with a Micro 4/3 sensor (16.1 million pixels) remains among the best rated in this price range. The body alone can be found for about 500€ and in a kit with a 14-42mm for 150€ extra. Those who need to be a bit tighter on the final budget (kit + body) can choose the old model, the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II, whose standard kit with 14-22mm lens is about 500€.
- The Panasonic Lumix GX80: Released in 2016, this Micro 4/3 (20mp) sensor body also remains a good option for this price range. It looks quite similar to the Olympus E-M10 Mark II (mentioned above). It is sold in kit form with the 16-32mm lens more or less at the same price.
- The Fujifilm X-T100: a 24mp APS-C, compact, lightweight and with a tiltable screen 3″ It remains a well-regarded for the brand, delivered in kit with a 15-45mm.
At the very limit of this price range, we also find the excellent Canon M50, an APS-C mirrorless camera with 24 million pixels. Delivered in kit form including a 15-45mm with sliding aperture, it is a beautiful mirrorless camera in this range with 4K and a screen that can be rotated through 180°.
We are clearly entering into more serious bodies here and if you can afford to invest a little bit more in a mirrorless camera, I would advise you to go for this price range. You can choose a good quality body alone and spend part of your budget on a beautiful lens that is adapted to your photographic practice, which I recommend, knowing that the kit lenses are often of medium quality.
Here are 3 very well rated models in this price range:
- The Fujifilm XT-20: it can be found in the 700/800€ range (body alone). This 24MP APS-C sensor body has a beautiful 8fps burst, 4k and a tiltable screen. Sold in kit with a 15-45mm, it will satisfy people looking for a serious camera. In the same brand and the same price range, many also appreciate the X-E3.
- The Panasonic GX9: usually found in kit form with a 14-140mm lens, this 20.3MP camera is very popular in this range.
- The Canon EOS M6: an entry-level option at Canon at an affordable price!
At the lower end of this price range, the Olympus OM-D E M10 Mark III body can also be found, often with a 14-42mm lens included and in a double kit with a 40-150mm. It’s something to have some fun with already.
We are now getting into the best of the mirrorless cameras. The very best of the best. I didn’t deliberately want to split this category, because there are cameras at 1500, 2000 or 3000€… Clearly, at this price, the targets are either professionals or wealthy amateurs who like to enjoy themselves with a beautiful camera. I will not be too detailed here seeing that the majority of you will not be interested in creating a budget to afford such a camera. However, here are some extraordinary options in this price range (not exhaustive):
- At Sony: The A7II (which has dropped significantly in price since the arrival of its big brother the A7III) is amongst the brand’s top cameras. Another good camera is the Sony A6500, which is a racing beast! The A7II remains, in my opinion a very good camera at an “acceptable” price plus it does have a full frame sensor.
- At Fujifilm: The XT2 is still a superb option for the brand (in APS-C) with a heavy, solid, waterproof and fast body. Its big brother, the XT3 is also superb but for a price close to 2000€ in kit,
- At Nikon: The Nikon Z6, the first camera in full-format sensor from Nikon for the moment, competes directly with the Sony A7III and the Eos R from Canon.
- At Panasonic: We find the Panasonic GH5 or GH9 but in my opinion they are still behind the Sony or Fujifilm, mainly due to their micro 4/3 sensor.
In practice, this would be the most appropriate point in my opinion, although in reality, few people choose a mirrorless camera based on their needs. Why? many people are new to this type of camera and do not yet know enough about what they like in photography to properly target a suitable camera. However, I suggest 2 categories based on needs: for videographers and travellers/inhabitants of the tropics.
I am not what you might call a great videographer because I am clearly more photo-oriented, but according to my research two models stand out, and are of, particular interest for those who practice video.
- Sony A6400: it is found to be used by many bloggers/vloggers thanks to its 4K, its 180° tiltable screen (perfect for selfies) and its incredible focus.
- The Fujifilm X-H1: of all the reviews I have read it is indeed the brand’s best body for video. In particular because it is the only one with a stabilized sensor!
I belong to this category of people who travel and who also live in the tropics. The main advice I could give would be to choose a tropicalized mirrorless camera, which will be much more resistant to the difficult travel conditions (dust, wind, etc.) but also to the tropical climate (high temperature and humidity). Between us, to avoid any problems, I advise all the people living in the tropics to store their photo equipment in a drybox. It is simply a closed box in which you can set the humidity level. I have been using a model from Eureka since 2012.
I definitely need to recommend 2 cameras last in a different price range:
The title is certainly a little catchy, but I spent so much time comparing, digging and checking information that I find it useful to recommend a few bodies per sensor type. Obviously, prices will increase relatively to how big the sensor you choose is.
I would advise in particular here:
- The Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II: even if it is a little old, it is still a superb body and the version above is clearly oriented for professionals (OM-D E-M1X). It is renowned for its high-speed performance, precise autofocus and ultra-resistant body.
- Panasonic DC-GH5: It is also solid in terms of features: with a rather powerful camera for both photo and video (the ideal for video is the GH5s).
These two bodies have very good characteristics in all aspects. Clearly, we’re in high-end equipment. Only downside in my opinion is that the two cameras are as expensive as a high-end Sony APS-C or Fujilfilm body. So, it should be taken into consideration when you know the importance of the size of a sensor.
For those who are not limited in terms of budget and who are looking for a versatile APS-C mirrorless camera, both in terms of video/image quality, ergonomics and weight, I can suggest 2 models that I think have an excellent price-quality ratio and are a very good compromise.
- The Sony A6500: with all the research I’ve been able to do, here’s a body that is excellent in every aspect (very fast focusing and burst, 24.2 M pixels, 4K, swivel touch screen, 5 axis stabilization, etc.),
- The Fujifilm XT3: This APS-C camera is also among the best: 26m of pixels, burst at 20fps, longest autonomy, high shutter speed, a wide choice of lenses, stabilized kit lenses… in short, it’s seriously good!
|Budget||Brand||Type||Model||M pixels||Best price|
|250/500€||Olympus||Micro 4/3||OM-D E-M10 Mark III||16,1MP||Amazon|
|>1000€||Sony||Full Frame||A7 II||42MP||Amazon|
|>1000€||Sony||Full Frame||A7 III||24,2MP||Amazon|
We are talking about excellence here. Here is a selection of the best Full Frame mirrorless cameras of the moment. Whatever you choose from this list, you are at the very top level. We’re talking about very expensive bodies here!
If I had to choose a full-format mirrorless camera today, I would most likely turn to something like the Sony A7II that remains extraordinary yet whose price has dropped a lot since the release of the A7 III, which remains very expensive. Another possibility for those who can spend between 1200/1400€ on a camera is the Canon EOS RP which, for the price, also displays magical features. The only problem is that you are more limited in terms of available optics. So, I think I’ll go on the A7 II!
Some of you may simply be more attracted to one brand than another when choosing your mirrorless camera. And I would say: why not? When I bought my first DSLR, I wanted to buy Canon. Who knows why, but it was the case.
I suggest below a detailed comparison between the characteristics of the different bodies, listed by brand. I didn’t include all the cameras from each brand (there are too many of them), but essentially those that I quoted in the article. The interest for you is to be able to compare the different models and make your choice according to the characteristics.
This compilation work required a lot of time and research. I really wanted to make it easier for you because it is easy to get lost out there! If you like the advice and work provided in this article, you can support this blog by using one of the links to buy your camera!
Here are the main models in order from the best range to the lowest. I have only mentioned here the models I discussed in the article.
|Type||Model||M pixels||Burst rate||Autofocus||Weight (in g)||Best price|
|Full Frame||A9||24,2||20 fps||693 points||681||Amazon|
|Full Frame||A7S II||12||2,5 fps||169 points||627||Amazon|
|Full Frame||A7R III||42,4||10 fps||399 points||657||Amazon|
|Full Frame||A7III||24,2||10 fps||693 points||650||Amazon|
|Full Frame||A7II||24,7||5 fps||117 points||560||Amazon|
|APS-C||A6500||24,3||11 fps||425 points||410||Amazon|
|APS-C||A6000||24,3||11 fps||179 points||344||Amazon|
|APS-C||A5100||24,3||6 fps||179 points||283||Amazon|
The choice of an Olympus mirrorless camera is quite simple. Remember that they all have a Micro 4/3 sensor. The range extends from the OM-D E-M10 Mark III (entry-level) to the OM-D E-M5 Mark III (mid-range) to the OM-D E-M1 Mark III and more recently the OM-D E-M1X (very high-end).
|Model||M pixels||Weight (in g)||Burst rate||Best price|
|OM-D E-M1X||20,4||849||18 fps||Amazon|
|OM-D E-M1 Mark III||20,4||500||18 fps||Amazon|
|OM-D E-M1 Mark II||20||570||18 fps||Amazon|
|OM-D E-M5 Mark III||21,8||410||10 fps||Amazon|
|OM-D E-M5 Mark II||16||417||10 fps||Amazon|
|OM-D E-M10 Mark III||16||362||8,6 fps||Amazon|
|OM-D E-M10 Mark II||17||342||8,6 fps||Amazon|
As with other brands, here are a few things that will help you understand the Fujifilm range of mirrorless cameras. Let’s go for a little Fuji photography tour! Regarding the brand, it’s the “X” series that refers to mirrorless cameras. As a reminder, the whole X series offers APS-C sensors.
Canon’s arrival into the mirrorless camera world is relatively recent. The number of Canon models for this type of body is relatively small. Here is some additional information to help you find your way around. Simply put, Canon is divided into two ranges: mirrorless camera bodies for beginners and amateurs with APS-C bodies and higher-end cameras with full-frame bodies. Here is our article detailing all the full-frame mirrorless cameras from Canon.
Below is a summary table of Canon’s mirrorless camera range and its main specifications.
|Brand||Type||Model||M pixels||Weight (in g)||Best price|
|Canon||APS-C||M6 Mark II||32,5||408||Amazon|
Choosing a Nikon mirrorless camera is even easier, since at the time of this writing, there are only three models available. For the full-frame mirrorless cameras, Nikon has released two bodies: the Z6 and the Z7. For those who don’t have the budget to buy a full frame camera, Nikon recently released the Nikon Z50, the first APS-C body of the brand.
Unfortunately, I will not deal with this vast subject in this already very long article. I’m of the opinion that the choice of lens remains according to what you want to do, your budget, your level of photography, etc.
If you are a beginner and you don’t yet know what you are going to specialize in, I simply advise you to keep your kit lens that was sold with the camera that you will be able to choose thanks to this article! The lenses associated with entry-level cameras are often not high quality. For those who want to take pictures of everyday life and occasionally travel, in easy conditions, this lens may suit you in the beginning. When you start to understand why you need to change your lens and what its limitations are, it will be time to consider moving up to a higher range! Be careful though, because in the vast majority of bodies your lens sold with the camera will be something like 15-45mm or 14-42mm, which remain “quite wide” focal lengths. You won’t be able to “zoom out” with it to take pictures of sports, wildlife, distant subjects, etc. It could therefore be interesting to consider investing in a longer focal length from the beginning to complement your standard transtandard kit lens.
For those who already have a certain level of photography, or those who already have an idea of the style of photography and shooting conditions, you will clearly know how to adapt the choice of your lens. Do you need a long focal length? A fixed focal length? A wide-angle lens? A bright lens?
Here I am, at the end of this very long article (again). I spent a lot of time to produce this informative and comparative article on the best mirrorless cameras (for you). With all the points mentioned in the article, you should be able to make a well thought out choice.
However, a big fan of DSLR cameras, I am really interested in evolving or completing my camera range with a good quality mirrorless camera body to travel lighter. For months now, I have been learning a lot about mirrorless camera, their quality, their limitations and the associated possibilities. This article is therefore the result of several months of extensive research and clearly seeing an interest in sharing all the elements summarized in the simplest possible way for you.
I hope I’ve been clear (otherwise say it, huh?) and that you’re going to make the right choice. If you are hesitating between several models and you need advice on choosing your mirrorless camera, feel free to leave me a comment at the bottom of the article and I will try to guide you as best I can! If you missed it at the beginning of this article, I invite you to visit the complete guide to choose your mirrorless camera lenses.
See you soon,