How to choose your DSLR: finding the best DSLR camera for you

In a world where digital photography has evolved incredibly quickly, many people still wonder whether buying a first DSLR camera is a good way to get started in photography. The question is still relevant, even if mirrorless cameras now dominate most new releases. Many beginners still ask how to choose a DSLR or what the best DSLR is for them. If you have already bought your camera, you can also read my guide on which camera lens to choose.

As you have probably guessed, there is no single “best” DSLR for everyone. In my opinion, the best DSLR is the one that suits you best: the one that fits your needs, your style of photography, your level of commitment, your expectations and, most importantly, your budget. It is not necessarily useful to start with a professional DSLR, such as a Canon 5D Mark IV or 5D Mark III, when a more affordable DSLR can already help you learn the basics and get your feet wet.

And yes, photography also means spending money. Those of us who have been taking pictures for a few years know that, beyond a certain point, photography can become expensive. This article is not meant to be a simple comparison of the best DSLRs available today. Instead, I will guide you through the main things you need to understand before choosing your DSLR, so you can make a decision that really suits you.

Choosing your camera is not easy, so at the end of the article, I will also share a selection of DSLR cameras according to budget and photographic needs. I try to keep this article updated when useful, even though the DSLR market has changed a lot in recent years. Who said learning photography was easy, right?

If you are interested in another type of camera, I suggest reading my complete guide to the best mirrorless cameras. I know some photographers now swear by these interchangeable-lens mirrorless cameras, especially when they include stabilization and remain compact and lightweight. For many people, they are now a very strong alternative to DSLRs.

As mentioned at the beginning, the goal here is not to give you an exhaustive list of the best DSLRs available right now. There are simply too many factors to consider for a single answer to make sense. Do you really think a $2,000 TV is the best choice for everyone? I’m not so sure — I don’t even own a TV — but you get the idea, right?

Here are, in my opinion, the main things you should know and keep in mind when buying your digital DSLR camera, whether it is your first camera or not. I briefly explain each point in the sections below, and you can also click the small arrow when you want a little more detail.

In any case, remember that you should choose according to your real photographic needs — and yes, also according to your wishes if you have a little extra money to spend.

This topic deserves a more detailed article, so I’ll try to summarize it as simply as possible here. When you buy a DSLR, you mainly have two sensor sizes to choose from, excluding medium format and Micro Four Thirds. The sensor is simply the surface inside your DSLR camera that captures the light from the scene in front of you. To simplify, and deliberately leaving APS-H aside, the two main formats are APS-C and full frame, also known as 35mm format or 24 x 36 mm.

To go further, feel free to read our complete article listing all the current Canon APS-C cameras.

This is an important point to consider when buying your DSLR. Depending on the body you choose, mainly whether it is full frame or APS-C, you will not necessarily use the same lenses. Two things need to be clarified here: the lens mount and the weight and price of the lenses.

When it comes to the mount, remember that each brand uses specific names to indicate whether a lens is designed for a full-frame DSLR or an APS-C DSLR. For example, with Canon, EF-S lenses are designed for APS-C cameras, while Canon EF lenses are compatible with full-frame cameras. At Nikon, FX refers to full-frame compatibility, while DX refers to APS-C. As a general rule, a full-frame lens can be used on an APS-C body. The opposite is much less straightforward, and at Canon, EF-S lenses cannot be mounted on full-frame DSLRs. With other brands, especially Nikon, it may be technically possible to mount a DX lens on a full-frame body, and some cameras can automatically crop the image. But in practice, you lose much of the benefit of owning a full-frame body. Still, it is possible.

When it comes to weight and price, full-frame lenses are usually much more expensive. Starting with full frame clearly requires a bigger budget. These lenses are also often heavier, especially when they have a wide maximum aperture. At the beginning, you will probably start with a standard zoom, such as an 18-55mm, rather than a fixed focal length like a 35mm or 50mm. If possible, I would still advise choosing a stabilized lens.

You can also think about the type of photos you want to shoot. If you like photographing distant subjects, APS-C may actually be more suitable. For example, a 300mm lens on full frame remains a 300mm. On APS-C, you only need around 200mm to get a similar angle of view.

The Canon 50 mm f/1.4, a bright, high-quality lens at a reasonable price — More details on Amazon

Everyone will have their own opinion on this, but here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Canon and Nikon have historically been the two most popular DSLR brands,
• Other brands, such as Pentax and Sony, have also offered DSLR or DSLR-style systems,
• There is no single “best” brand. Canon DSLRs are not automatically better than Nikon DSLRs, and vice versa — even if I personally use Canon,
• Canon and Nikon still have the widest DSLR lens ecosystems, especially on the used market,
• Third-party lenses from brands such as Sigma, Tamron, Tokina and Zeiss are widely available for Canon and Nikon DSLR mounts, while the choice can be more limited for other DSLR systems.

So I would not recommend one brand over another in absolute terms. Instead, depending on the kind of photography you want to practice, you should first check whether the brand offers the lenses you need, especially for specific uses such as macro or wildlife photography.

Here are some technical criteria I think you should understand before choosing a camera, especially if it is your first one. The idea is to identify your real needs, because honestly, nobody really needs to start with a 36-megapixel camera, a 15 fps burst rate and 75 cross-type autofocus points. Some cameras offer all that, of course, but you see where I’m going with this. Think carefully about what you actually want to photograph before trying to make the “right” choice. Your first camera matters, but it should mainly help you learn and progress.

This is often referred to as the number of megapixels in the camera sensor. For years, there was a real megapixel race, and to be honest, a lot of it was marketing. Here are a few things to remember:

• The number of megapixels has only a limited impact on the final image quality, I promise,
• A camera with 8 to 10 megapixels is already enough to display images full screen on a computer. Of course, you can take nice pictures with a phone, but only if the final goal is to view them on a small screen or make very small prints. I have already tried printing photos taken with my old iPhone, and let’s just say the result was not pretty.
• Megapixels become useful when you want to crop an image. Simply put, the more pixels you have, the more you can crop while keeping acceptable image quality.
• Megapixels also matter for printing. The more pixels you have, the larger you can print while maintaining good quality. Commercial photographers often use cameras with 36 megapixels or more. But between us, how often do you print posters of your vacation photos?

ISO, or ISO sensitivity, describes how much your camera amplifies the light captured by the sensor. Depending on the camera, it can range from ISO 50 to more than ISO 100,000. In simple terms, it helps you take pictures in low-light conditions. I also wrote a detailed article on ISO in photography in the “Basics of Photography” section.

Three different Canon DSLR bodies with different high-ISO capabilities: on the left, the very affordable entry-level Canon EOS 2000D (Rebel T7); in the middle, the Canon 90D, an advanced amateur APS-C model; and on the right, the Canon 5D Mark IV, a professional full-frame body.

Autofocus points are the “areas” you see in the viewfinder and use to focus on a specific subject. You do not need 50 AF points to start photography, but this is still worth considering, especially if you want to photograph wildlife or sports. Depending on the camera body:

• The number of focus points varies a lot. It can range from 11, as on my 6D, to 65 on a Canon 7D Mark II, or even more on newer systems. Their number, and especially their position in the frame, has a major impact on framing and focusing possibilities. For example, the AF points on my 6D are much too central for my taste, which made things more difficult when I wanted to compose more freely during my photo safari in Tanzania.
• Their quality also varies greatly. Without going into too much technical detail, there are several types of autofocus points, and some are more sensitive to light than others. In simple terms, some AF points will focus very well in low light, while others, often located away from the center, may struggle.
• The quality of the AF points directly affects autofocus performance, meaning the focus you get when you press the shutter button halfway down.

Burst mode simply allows you to take several pictures very quickly over a short period of time. It is worth considering when choosing your camera, especially if you want to photograph fast-moving subjects such as planes, animals or sports. Burst speed varies depending on the camera. As a general rule, the more advanced and expensive the body, the faster the burst rate. Professional DSLR cameras, such as Canon’s 1D series or Nikon’s D6, can reach around 14 frames per second.

These are two very important points to consider when buying a DSLR camera. If you are just starting out in photography and buying your first DSLR, there is a good chance you will choose an entry-level model, which will usually be fairly small and light.

However, if, like me, you want to treat yourself from the beginning and buy a more advanced camera, weight and size need to be taken seriously. To give you an idea, a beginner DSLR such as the Canon 100D weighs around 400 g. My 6D already weighs almost 700 g, while a professional Canon 1D body is around 1.4 kg. So, is that too heavy for you?

Keep in mind that the lens will add even more weight. With my 6D and 70-300 L telephoto lens, I have about 2 kg around my neck. Believe me, it starts to feel heavy by the end of the day. With lighter lenses, the total weight will obviously be lower. Want to learn more about wide-angle lenses?

Another point to think about is accessories. If I buy a pro or semi-pro camera one day, there is a good chance I will also need to change my camera bag. Add a polarizing filter, ND filter, graduated filter, tripod, teleconverter and several lenses, and all of that takes up space. Do you really want to carry all this gear with you or not?

I recommend going to a store to try your future DSLR camera before buying it. You don’t necessarily have to buy it locally, especially if it is more expensive, but testing it in person can be very useful.

Take a look at the camera, the menus and the settings. Hold it in your hands and see how it feels. This really matters.

These are, in my opinion, the main technical points to understand if you want to know how to choose your DSLR, or more precisely, how to choose the best DSLR for you.

Last but not least, let’s talk about the budget you have for buying your DSLR. For many of us, this is probably the most important point, and the one that will guide your choice the most. Do you have a limited budget? $500? $1,000? $2,000? Depending on your situation, you will already be able to narrow down your options based on this criterion alone.

In general, there are 3 categories:

1. Beginner / entry-level
2. Amateur
3. Professional

Unless you have a very comfortable budget, I would not recommend starting with a professional DSLR, which will also be harder to handle. And that’s before even talking about the cost of all the lenses you may want to buy. Entry-level DSLR cameras used to start around $200 to $300, while a professional DSLR body can cost more than $3,000 or $4,000.

But this article is not only for people buying their first DSLR. Some of you may already have a first camera and want to upgrade to something better, more versatile, more complete, more powerful or simply better suited to your photography.

Suggesting the best DSLR for you at the end of this article is a difficult exercise. The choice will never be perfect, and the recommendations will not be either, but I hope I have already given you the main criteria you need to think about.

I will mainly focus on entry-level and amateur cameras, usually with APS-C sensors. Photographers who want to buy a professional DSLR generally already know most of the points covered above.

• If you are a beginner and have not clearly identified your needs or the type of photography you want to practice, I recommend sticking with an entry-level camera, regardless of the brand. You can keep your budget very low with a DSLR and an 18-55mm kit lens, which already allows you to try a bit of everything. This is a minimum starting point, and it can work very well if your goal is simply to learn and see whether you enjoy photography.
  • You could start, for example, with a Canon Rebel T100/4000D, or a Nikon D3300, especially on the used market,

• If you still do not know exactly what you want to photograph but have a slightly larger budget, around €500, you can move up a level:
  • Toward a Nikon D3500 or a Canon EOS Rebel SL3/250D, often found new or used depending on availability,
  • Here are some DSLR + kit lens options for less than €500
• For those with a larger budget who want a more comfortable first DSLR, you can consider the upper beginner or amateur range. The budget will increase quite quickly, so expect around €500 to €800 for a body and kit lens:
  • You can consider a Canon Rebel T7i/800D, a Nikon D5600 or a Pentax K-70, for example, especially if you find them at a good price.

Between you and me, you do not need the best DSLR camera to start photography. Here are two examples of entry-level cameras, the Canon 2000D and Nikon D3500, that can be very good for learning the basics.

If you are a beginner but already have a clear idea of the kind of photography you want to practice, choosing the camera body and lens may be a little easier.

• For sports or wildlife photography, you will need a camera with good high-ISO performance, a fast burst rate and responsive autofocus. You could consider a Canon Rebel T7i/800D, or, if your budget allows it, a 6D, which was one of the first relatively affordable full-frame DSLRs at around €1,000. At Nikon, a D7200 can already be a very good investment for these types of photos.
• If you are more interested in landscape photography, you have two main options depending on your budget:
  • You can choose an entry-level camera body with an 18-55mm kit lens, which is the first DSLR setup for many beginners and can be found from around €300. You can already take nice landscape photos at 18mm, and you also have the advantage of being able to zoom in a little up to 55mm,
  • If you have a larger budget, you can buy an entry-level or amateur body and pair it with a lens better suited to landscape photography, such as a wide-angle lens for APS-C. Depending on the body, the full setup can cost between €700 and €1,000. Examples include Canon’s excellent EF-S 10-22mm, the Nikon DX 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5, or well-known third-party APS-C wide-angle lenses, such as the Tokina AT-X 11-20mm f/2.8 Pro DX, the Sigma 10-20mm F3.5 EX DC HSM or the Tamron AF 10-24mm F/3.5-4.5 DI II LD.

Here are 3 examples: Canon Rebel T7i/800D: a very good compromise for travel photos, souvenir photos, family photos, night scenes and street photography. Pair it with one of the two wide-angle lenses below, and you’ll already have a very capable setup.

If you bought a first entry-level DSLR, such as a Canon 100D or Nikon D3300, and want to move up to something better, you can consider upgrading within the amateur APS-C range. You will usually gain a lot in terms of high ISO performance, resolution, autofocus points, autofocus quality and burst speed. On the other hand, expect a heavier camera body.

• At Canon, moving from an entry-level body to a 77D or 80D is already a big step,
• At Nikon, you can upgrade from a D5600 to a D7200 or D7500, for example.

Of course, I cannot review every possible upgrade path. If you need advice on how to choose your DSLR, feel free to leave me a comment at the bottom of the article. As a reminder, Nikon’s DSLR ranges were traditionally organized like this: D3x00/D5x00 for beginner and amateur models, and D7x00 for more expert APS-C bodies.

Choosing the right DSLR camera is already not easy, so moving to full frame can feel like another big step. Some of you may be travel and photography enthusiasts, like me, who started with an entry-level DSLR and gradually reached the limits of that first camera. I experienced this with my Canon 500D a few years ago. I wanted something better in several areas: faster autofocus, better high-ISO performance, cleaner files, better AF points and more overall comfort.

A few years ago, I personally fell for a full-frame transition camera: the Canon 6D. The 6D Mark II later came out, but one thing is worth remembering: you cannot always chase the best DSLR of the moment, unless you have a lot of money. Would I sometimes like a better camera than my 6D? Yes, of course. But I make do with it.

In short, if you started with an amateur or entry-level camera and now want to move to full frame, here are a few possibilities:

• The Canon 6D remains one of the most accessible full-frame DSLRs, especially used, even if it is still around €1,000 depending on the market. You often need to spend significantly more to get a 6D Mark II. The 5D range is much more expensive. Do you really need it for your first move to 24 x 36?
• At Nikon, full-frame options include models such as the D750, which remains a very solid reference.

Examples of two affordable full-frame DSLRs, still more than capable of taking beautiful pictures in difficult conditions

That brings us to the end of this very long article, and I hope it helps you choose your digital camera more clearly. Choosing the right camera is never easy. There is no ready-made answer and no universally “easy” choice. I have simply tried to guide you through your next purchase by explaining the elements that seem important to me. Choosing your DSLR remains a very personal decision. You can also look at the detailed tests published by DXO, both for camera bodies and lenses. It is a bit like a reference library when you want help choosing a new camera.

The cameras suggested here are not absolute truths. In theory, there is no camera made for one specific type of photography only. Some models will be better suited to certain uses, but in many cases, the lens you choose will ultimately make the biggest difference.

You will often hear that “it is better to have a good lens on a decent camera than a basic lens on a professional camera.” And that is quite true. One thing is certain: as you move up the range, you generally gain more possibilities, whether that means shooting faster, reducing motion blur, taking pictures in poor lighting without worrying as much about noise, and so on.

Do not get caught up in the race for every possible “gadget,” such as built-in Wi-Fi, a swiveling screen and so on. I am not saying these features are useless, but in my opinion, they should not be your main priority.

Finally, remember the essential point: it all depends on your photographic needs, not only on your desires. If you have the money, you can think the other way around, but that is not necessarily the best way to choose the most suitable DSLR for you. No one needs 13 frames per second when starting out, or 45 cross-type AF points. Buying a professional camera body will not automatically make you take better pictures. On the other hand, if you know you will often shoot in concerts or in the undergrowth, where light is weak, then choosing a better DSLR with very good high-ISO performance becomes relevant and well thought out. Do you see the idea? There is no single best choice in itself.

I hope I have helped guide you anyway. If you need help choosing your DSLR, if you are hesitating between several cameras, or if you need help identifying your needs, feel free to leave me a comment at the bottom of the article. For travel lovers, I also invite you to read my guide on which camera is best for travel.

As always, if you enjoyed the article, feel free to share it on your social networks. And I almost forgot: don’t forget to move away from automatic mode, or at least try shooting in semi-automatic mode already… okay? 🙂 For those who are still hesitating, I have also finalized a complete guide on the advantages of choosing a DSLR vs. a mirrorless camera.

Written by Sylvain PONS

I've been passionate about photography since 2010, learning as I went along. Today, I dedicate myself to guiding others in their choice of camera gear and sharing a variety of tips to improve their photography skills.

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