Raiatea, the original Polynesian island
Last update: 03/12/2024
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The island of Raiatea is the last island in the Leeward Islands that I have not written about so far. I had to go back a third time this summer 2019 to finally have enough content to finalize an article. Some content is lacking due to the fact that I haven’t yet had the opportunity to do all the available activities over my last visits, however I believe the essential is present in this article.
I must admit that Raiatea was not one of the polynesian islands I held close to heart among the Leeward Islands. I found it too big, too developed and lacking in interest. However, this last visit I made has allowed me to appreciate it a little better and after all, it is still a nice enough place to spend a few days without getting bored. Nevertheless, it remains relatively less visited in comparison to the other Leeward Islands, like Bora Bora (named the Pearl of Pacific), Huahine or Tahaa.
I will present you here the essential things to see and do in Raiatea, and I will do this in the way of a travel journal. During your visit to Raiatea, you can enjoy its lush vegetation, turquoise lagoons (Polynesian waters are generally sublime) and white sandy beaches. As usual, I also provide you with all the necessary information to prepare your trip to the island at the bottom of the article.
- The island of Raiatea is located in the Society Archipelago (Leeward Islands + Windward Islands). As a reminder, the other archipelagos are: the Marquesas, the Australes Islands, the Tuamotu and the Gambier,
- The island of Raiatea has the characteristic of being located in the same lagoon as the neighboring island of Taha’a. Back then, millions of years ago, the island of Tahaa and Raiatea were one and the same,
- Lost in the middle of the Pacific, it is the second largest island of French Polynesia measuring 175 Km²,
- It is the third most populated island after Tahiti and Moorea,
- To my knowledge, the amateurs of bungalows on stilts will not find their happiness on this island, seeing as there are none!
- The island is historically known in the Polynesian territory as the birthplace of the Polynesian society and culture, where the first Polynesians of the time could have landed.
What to do to in Raiatea then?
What activities to do in Raiatea ?
I know perfectly well the tropical island of Raiatea as I’ve been there dozens of times. Before telling you below about the must-do’s on the island, I wanted to summarize in a few words what activities I recommend on the island. Everything is obviously not here, but these are the activities that I consider as unmissable in Raiatea, French Polynesia.
- Raiatea and Tahaa lagoon excursion: : The best boat tour on the island in my opinion. The feedbacks are excellent and you will have the opportunity to see a lot on this day trip
- Kayaking up the Faaroa River: : I have done this trip several times, it is really a great atmosphere, a peaceful activity and great landscapes
- Flying over Raiatea by helicopter: : A great way to see Raiatea (and Tahaa) differently. The views from the sky over the lagoons are simply amazing!
Lagoon outing
While you’re on the island of Raiatea, it’s definitely worth considering a trip to the turquoise lagoon during your vacations. In general, tour operators do not offer a full tour of the island, as it is too big. Instead, they focus on the east coast of the island and the tour of Tahaa Island. There are a number of companies that offer such tours. These include Are Tours Raiatea Tahaa, Faaroa Cruise Excursion and Destination Lagon.
Scuba diving
The island doesn’t claim to have the reputation of the Tuamotus and Rangiroa/Fakarava. However, some of the dive sites are well known, it’s a great way to explore marine life and coral reefs, even if you’re a beginner diver. There are two scuba diving (snorkeling) clubs to choose from for your diving expedition, both of which have an excellent reputation on the Raiatea island: Hemisphère Sub and Te Mara Nui Plongée. Scuba diving is definitely one of the things to do in Raiatea.
Land-based outings
You can also take a 4×4 tour of the polynesian island to discover its beauty, especially with Trucky Tour or Raiatea 4×4. It’s one of the best activities to do in Raiatea.
Overview of the must-do's in Raiatea
Here’s a round-up of things to see and do on Raiatea. Here are just a few of the highlights:
- Raiatea island tour
- Visit the Taputapuatea marae
- Discover the beauties of the lagoon
- Kayak up the Faaroa River
- Hike the island’s trails
The capital of the island of Raiatea, Uturoa, is of somewhat limited interest. It is the main town and where most of the activity is located: bars, restaurants, bakeries, various shops, market, etc. You will probably stop here to stock up on food at the local “Champion”, or have a little drink “in town”. If you are staying in the south of the island then it is still much better to do your food shopping here.
I don’t really recommend spending any time there, but you can go and have a quick look at the few different graffiti in town and on the way out. Every year, the street art festival “Ono’u” takes place on the island of Tahiti and Raiatea. It is an opportunity for all artists to come and express themselves in different spots all over the “city”.
If you look at the “mountain side”, you will see a rock: Mount Taipioï. Rising to 294 m, it is a fairly easy walk on a very well maintained path. The place is private so you have to park your car at the beginning of the path, just before a barrier. The entrance is next to the Police station of Uturoa, you can look on the Wikilocs site for the exact path, but it’s impossible to get lost anyway. It will take 45 minutes to 1 hour depending on your walking pace. From the top, you get a beautiful and breathtaking view of the neighboring island, Tahaa, but also of the island of Bora Bora in the background. I went up there in the late afternoon, but the weather was not ideal for a sunset. In my opinion, for photographers, it is better to avoid the morning because you have the sun in full front… Be careful to check that the path is open (as it seemed to be closed at the end of 2019).
Uturoa is also the departure point for the main activities of the island. If you plan to dive or to go on excursions in the lagoon of Tahaa and Raiatea, departures will often be from here. For those who wish to go up the well-known Faaroa River (further south), you can ask at the marina at Gwen, Raiatea Activities. I had the opportunity to do this excursion which was really amazing and which I would recommend 100% if you are visiting the island. I’ll tell you more about it below.
I then advise you to go along the east coast and then stop at PK 6 (you will notice the markers along the road) where you start the short hike of the 3 waterfalls. The access to the hike is via a dirt road that is easy to drive even with a small rental car. The whole path is shaded and goes through a forest of ferns and maple trees, known as the Tahitian chestnut tree. In fact, you will find maple vendors along the road selling this fruit, cooked and prepared. It’s quite nice to taste. I honestly enjoyed walking through the undergrowth. It’s certainly very humid and hot, but the atmosphere is very calm, restful, and the photographers will appreciate the details of the wild flora. The path allows you to access the series of 3 waterfalls. In some of them, you will even be able to swim! The walk will take around an hour. The trek on wikilocs can be found here.
Continuing on your way, you can now stop at PK14.5 at the Faaroa Botanical Gardens, which has just reopened a short while ago. It’s a nice little walk, accessible to all, open every day (7am-7pm) and free! During my last visit in September 2020, I had the opportunity to stop there for an hour with my family. The walk was very pleasant and finally quite nice to do. You can even eat there, there are picnic tables. The end of the trail ends at the Faaora River which you can paddle up in a canoe-kayak. At the end, a very nice view on the river.
If you go down south again, I’m of the opinion that there’s one thing that cannot be missed on the island, the kayak trip down the Faaroa River, which starts at about PK 19. If you are staying far from Uturoa, you can check with Gwen to meet directly at the PK which is the starting point of the excursion. If you are staying not far from Uturoa, a minibus can drive you to the site from the town. The beginning of the excursion starts behind the Faaroa police station, at the end of the bay or almost. After some quick explanations about the excursion’s itinerary, the other tourists and I get onto the two-seater kayaks. I must admit to being carried by the guide to allow myself to enjoy the scene and take lots of pictures. The weather was very good and I really enjoyed myself. We went up the river for about 2km upstream and the atmosphere, which is calm, is just great. Everyone appreciated the guide explaining everything there is to know about the local fauna and flora of the river. In my opinion, this is indeed the nicest thing to do in Raiatea!
Thanks to Sophie who lives there, I was informed that two trails were recently opened on the island of Raiatea. The first one, the gabbros walk (“la promenade des gabbros” in french) starts at PK2 of the cross road, in the south of the island. You can discover these geological curiosities from a path on about 150m. I also visited this small, recently opened site in September 2020. It is a very short walk but a must-see if you are on vacation on the island. A small staircase allows access to the site, nothing very complicated, I can assure you. On site, explanations are present to explain these geological formations. You can take advantage of a few viewpoints which offer superb views of the surroundings.
Further on, at the Faaroa Belvedere (still on the cross road in the south), you can follow the famous Macaranga ridge trail (endemic tree of the island of Raiatea and Moorea). I haven’t been there yet, but Sophie recommends 1 hour max, taking your time. It is a small trail with several places with passages secured by ropes, quite steep. It’s quite tricky for small children. I really recommend good shoes and especially avoiding taking the path after heavy rains. It is currently in perfect condition as it is very recent and I hope it will be well maintained. I have to go to Raiatea soon, so I’ll go and take pictures of it!
As you continue the road towards the South of the island, the houses and villages are less and less common. The south of the island is calmer. One day, at the end of the afternoon, I met Alain Abel, the local manager of “Tahiti Vanille“, a vanilla processing company. Alain agreed to show me the places where he’s working at the moment, while waiting for the finishing touches to be done on his future vanilla dryer. Having been present for more than 20 years on the island of Raiatea, he is in charge of buying vanilla from local producers but also from the other islands. I plan to write a complete article on vanilla production and processing with his collaboration the next time I visit Raiatea. To put it simply, vanilla is bought fresh from local producers and then dried several times in the sun, out in the open air according to a specific process. It is then sorted, graded and sold to the finest French restaurants. Alain even received the Gold Medal at the “Concours Général Agricole” in 2019, after the Gold Medal at the 1001 tasting competition.
We have just published a full article based on an interview with Loïc from Tahiti Vanille. You will learn a lot about the vanilla grown here in Tahiti.
You can also continue your Raiatea Island tour by visiting the renowned Marae of Taputapuatea, near PK 30. The island is becoming more and more well known for it, with the recent classification of the site in 2018 as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The area is considered a cultural site thus attracting curious visitors passionate about old stones, culture and history. The maraes are testimony to pro-European civilization in all its splendor. They represent cultural, social and political sites of the ancient Polynesian society. The site is nice to walk around for 30 minutes, but you should not expect anything extraordinary “visually” speaking though. There are a group of several old structures that can be seen. Please note that the entrance is free. Furthermore, there is a nice little white sand beach with turquoise water right next to the marae, which is very nice for swimming. I note this because there are very few on the island… There is apparently also a new trail that was recently created in 2019, 200m before the marae (mountain side)! (Thanks Fanny).
Once the southern point is crossed, I must say that there are not many things to do and see in the south-west and west. On the other hand, for those who love photography, I really recommend to go up the west coast between 4 and 5 pm to see the beautiful lights on the lagoon and a beautiful sunset on Bora Bora. Apart from that, there’s not much to do on the west coast itself.
For walking enthusiasts, there are two locally known hikes that are very worthwhile: Mount Temehani (821m) and Mount Orotaio (479m). I didn’t have time to do either one, but for those who spend a few days on the island, it’s really something good to do if the weather is nice. It’s really not recommended to go walking just after a rainy day or during one, as it’s too slippery. You can look at the wikilocs site to go and have a more detailed look.
Among other activities to do on the Raiatea island, many of you will take advantage of being in Raiatea to go for a boat ride around Tahaa’s lagoon. I didn’t do it personally, but I have heard nothing but good things about a day spent on the lagoon. You can also take advantage of being on the island to go on an excursion on the two public motu of the island: the motu Ofetaro also known as the “motu in town” because it is close to Uturoa and the motu Iriru in front of the Faaroa bay, a communal public motu which depends on Taputapuatea where you can camp with the agreement of the town hall. Both motus are accessible with service providers offering transfers throughout the day, usually with a departure at 9am and return at 4pm. Food and drink must be brought. On the motus, there are fare pote’e (in case it rains), tables, benches, showers and toilets! I know that Faaroa Cruise Raiatea offers the excursion to the motu Tefaro for example (1000fr A/R for adults, 500fr for children, free for children under 5 years old). Other pensions such as Manava and Opeha also proposes these rides, even if you don’t sleep at their place! It’s a great way to spend a day at the beach because the island doesn’t have many beaches, even if recently a white sand beach has been set up in Tevaitoa (West coast) not far from the fire station.
I talk about it in our article about the Raiatea Lodge (see below), but in September 2020, we managed to go to the Motu Iriru with Maxi TAPU Excursion for 1000fr per adult and 500fr per child, roundtrip. It’s really cheap. We were literally dazzled by the beauty of the motu which is really superb. With one side slightly more exposed and the other side calm (lagoon side). The water is translucent and you can frankly spend half a day there (which we did), or even a full day to relax. On site, you have access to barbecue grills, toilets, etc. So it’s great if you have the opportunity to do it.
Another possibility to consider is with Raiatea Activities (the same ones I did the kayak trip with) to do a short paddle session with some sailing and windsurfing on the lagoon. Another possibility, that I have not yet discovered is some diving to discover the underwater world.
Tips for you stay in Raiatea
How do I get to Raiatea?
Before arriving in Raiatea, you will have no choice but to take a plane ticket to Tahiti, Papeete. For the cheapest flights to Tahiti, i recommend this great flight comparator that I have been using for at least 10 years now. I have found it very easy to use and have always found great cheap flights.
For Americans, the cheapest solution will be to book a flight from San Francisco to Papeete with French Bee or United Airlines. Other companies also exist such as Air France and Air Tahiti Nui, but they’re usually more expensive. From Canada, the cheapest solution will be to catch a flight from any large city in the country to SFO and then from SFO to Papeete.
Going to Raiatea by plane
Like 95% of the other islands, and the majority of tourists, you’ll get to Raiatea by plane. It’s the easiest and quickest way, but not the cheapest. You currently have two options. The most classic is to fly with Air Tahiti from Tahiti to Raiatea and back (about 38,000 xpf) or with one of the company’s passes, which allow you to discover several islands in the Leeward Islands. From the beginning of 2023, Moana Air, a new airline, will also be offering return flights from Tahiti at around 29,000 xpf per person.
Going to Raiatea by boat
If you prefer, you can also reach the island of Raiatea by boat. There are two relatively easy options with ferries departing from Tahiti and the other Leeward Islands: the Apetahi Express or the Vaearai. These cost around £9,000 return.
Another option is to take the Hawaikinui boat, which leaves Papeete every Tuesday and Thursday at 16.30 for the Leeward Islands (but check with them). The cost is 2000 xpf one way, if my figures are correct. You can even take your own car from Tahiti for 15,000 xpf. I’ve tried it several times, but believe me when I tell you it’s not easy. It is “theoretically” possible to reserve seats on the spot, but you have to be there at 5am when the tickets go on sale… a pain. Also, the number of places is limited (12, as far as I know) and the only alternative is to turn up when the boat leaves and ask if there’s a place left.
There are also shuttle services, such as Tahaa Transport Rapide (TTR), which links the island to Tahaa several times a day (800 / 1000 xpf). There’s also Etona Transport Maritime (Navette ETM) and the Maupiti Express, which runs between Tahaa/Bora and Raiatea.
Another possibility for those who have the means and wish to consider this type of trip: cruises on the Paul Gauguin or on other large liners are possible to visit this small tropical paradise.
I was about to forget one last possibility that can be considered anyway, which is to go on a catamaran for a week’s cruise to the Leeward Islands. I’ve never done this archipelago by boat but after spending a week on a catamaran in the Tuamotu atolls (Rangiroa – Fakarava – Apataki – Arutua – Toau), I can only advise you to try the experience if you like sailing. If you’re looking for someone serious about sailing from Tahiti, don’t hesitate to contact me, I’ll give you the tips, and I can get you good prices!
How to move around Raiatea
The island is clearly too big to consider just walking around. Even on a scooter, I wouldn’t recommend it. Personally, I often book my car rentals through this comparator. Don’t hesitate to take a look. Or take a look at Moana Rent a Car, Raiatea Location or Raiatea Rent a Car.
Recently, I discovered that there is also an electric bike rental on the island. It’s indeed a great way to discover the island in a quieter, more ecological way and more at the same rhythm as the island…
Hitchhiking should, as on all the islands, work pretty well for those who want to try. Note that in the south of the island and on the west coast, there aren’t any crowds…
Sleep, eat and drink at Raiatea
On the island of Raiatea, you’ve got a clear choice of places to stay. There’s something for every budget! Here are some serious recommendations (there are others):
Camping (and guesthouses)
You can pitch your tent (or stay in a guesthouse) at Sunset Beach Motel, Pension Te Maeva or LTB Fenua Camping.
Guest Houses
There are many guesthouses around the island. To name but a few:
- Pension les 3 cascades: located near Trois Cascades, this guesthouse offers a variety of accommodation, including rooms for 2 and farés for 3 to 5 people, with kitchen, washing machine and other facilities. Enjoy the warm welcome from Bruno and Patrice, the owners, and the free services such as bicycles and wifi!
- Le-Neliza Beach Lodge Raiatea: This is a familiar spot in Opoa and offers a fun experience with a spacious chalet with sea views, a terrace, a comfortable bedroom and a luxurious bathroom. Amenities include WiFi and air conditioning, and there is a private beach with kayaks and bicycles. Don’t hesitate to tell Suzy you’ve come from us! Here’s the full review of the place!
- Villa Tonoi: Rated 3 tiares, this property offers panoramic views over the lagoon and the island of Huahine. With five comfortable, fully equipped bungalows, a panoramic swimming pool and complimentary breakfast, the resort guarantees privacy, comfort and relaxation. A variety of activities are on offer, and positive feedback highlights the spectacular views and warm welcome.
More upmarket
- Opoa Beach Hotel: a beautiful property, often the most recommended on the island!
- Raiatea Lodge: we spent 3 nights here, in a magical setting, recently refurbished and with excellent food. For me, the benchmark for Raiatea.
- Hotel Atiapitii: I also stayed here for a late afternoon drink. The setting is also first class, and it’s perfect for cooling off after a visit to the Taputapuatea Marae (not far away). The waterfront bungalows looked great and I’ve heard nothing but good things about the place.
To have a drink at the end of the afternoon with the sunset on Bora Bora, I was suggest to go to the Fish and blue, just after the Raiatea Lodge on the west coast. To have a very nice polynesian meal, which I have personally tested, I was told to test out (under Alain’s advice) the Villa Exora (you can also sleep there).
For those looking for more economical accommodation in Raiatea, I suggest you take a closer look at these 3 addresses: the Faré Mahi Mahi, the Pension Tapuna or finally Raiatea Bungalow.
That’s it, this is the end of the post on what to do and to see in the island of Raiatea, located in South Pacific. I hope you enjoyed the discovery! If you already knew and travelled to the Leeward Islands (for example during your honeymoon), which islands have you preferred so far? Personally, my favorite is still Maupiti! I’m going to write a comparative summary article about the Leeward Islands seeing as I’ve visited them all now. The idea is to help you decide which islands to prioritize on your visit as you can’t see everything on one trip to French Polynesia in Oceania!
See you soon,
Sylvain
Written by Sylvain PONS
From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.
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