Visit Terre-de-Haut island in Les Saintes

It’s been about 15 days since I returned from the island of Terre-de-Haut, located in the beautiful archipelago of Les Saintes, and I must say that we truly had an excellent time on this small island. Yes, we had already visited the archipelago a few months ago when we decided to spend a long weekend on the neighboring island: Terre-de-Bas. The two islands are really very different, and I will tell you more about them later.

So, for this extended weekend in November, we decided to spend 4 days on Terre-de-Haut. I can already hear some people saying, ‘4 days on this rock? You’ll get bored; I did it in one day!’ Well, you know what? We are glad we stayed for 4 days, and we haven’t explored everything perfectly yet. I am increasingly wary of people with strong opinions on everything, especially when it comes to ‘traveling.’ Travel has become a trend and a “consumable” where you must ‘do’ places now. Anyway, I digress, but especially as a family of four now (with Téo still taking naps), we like to take the time to do things, get lost, explore, and simply dream…

We’ve also put together a great article on what to see and do in Les Saintes.

Against everyone’s advice, we indeed embark on a four-day exploration of this small island of Terre-de-Haut. To be honest, we haven’t heard only positive things about it: deemed too touristy, altered according to some, overcrowded during long weekends, and considered less authentic compared to Terre-de-Bas, among other criticisms. As always, despite the preconceptions, we like to form our own opinion, and that’s what we’re going to do. In the end, even though we are not fans of touristy places in general, it’s an island that is truly worth a visit and deserves several days!

In this article, we present the must-see and must-do activities during your stay in Terre-de-Haut, detailing what we experienced and more. As usual, you’ll find practical information at the end of the article to help you navigate the island like a pro (getting there, accommodation, dining, transportation, etc.).

After picking up the kids at 4pm in Vieux-Fort, we quickly headed to the port of Trois-Rivières to catch our boat. Living in the area has its perks, not to mention avoiding traffic jams and pollution. The crossing remains as beautiful as the first time, with the sunset disappearing on the horizon. Upon arrival, we explore the charming narrow streets of the town, almost empty as most visitors have left. Perfect. We head to our hotel.

Alright, let me tell you all about it.

Meanwhile, in a different style, the islands of Petite-Terre, off Saint-François, remain superb!

Like any self-respecting geographer and to summarize the essentials, here’s what you need to know about Terre-de-Haut:

• Terre-de-Haut is part of the Les Saintes archipelago (along with Terre-de-Bas), a dependency of Guadeloupe.
• The island is separated by the Canal des Saintes and is located opposite the municipality of Trois-Rivières.
• It has a surface area of 6 km2, with its highest point at Morne du Chameau reaching 309 meters.
• The “tourment d’amour” is the island’s culinary specialty, a kind of pie filled with jam in various flavors (coconut, pineapple, guava, banana, etc.).
• The island boasts a UCPA center!

If you want to explore the surrounding area, I’d recommend a half-day boat trip, which we thoroughly enjoyed. Come and read our full story!

There are numerous conventional activities to do during your stay on Terre-de-Haut, and most people tend to do the same things. However, it seems that many tourists only come here for a day, which, in my opinion, is more than a pity. We met quite a few people in the evening, mostly locals living here in Guadeloupe, like us.

This was the first thing we did the day after our arrival. If you take the last boat, like we did in the evening, you arrive at night. Besides having a good meal at one of the many restaurants in the town, activities will have to wait until the next morning! And this is really the first visit I recommend to everyone, knowing that the fort has specific opening hours, as it is only open from 9 am to 12:30 pm, with the last entry to the site at noon.

Well, we took our time on the first morning and got there later than I wanted. First, because of the crowd (you know, people aren’t early birds) but also for the quality of the photos, which could have been better. We must have arrived around 10 am, but if you can, don’t hesitate to come right at the opening at 9 am. The entrance fee is €7 for adults. You can easily park at the small parking lot on-site. I recommend coming here with a means of transportation because the road is steep, and it’s somewhat isolated from the rest of the town. Getting here by golf cart, bike, or scooter is quite manageable.

Taking a short stroll along the moats leads you to the entrance of Fort Napoleon. The building, designated as a historical monument in 1997, looks surprisingly well-preserved despite its age. Built atop Morne-à-Mire, it replaced the former Fort Louis, destroyed by the English in 1809. Several stages of construction took place during the reign of Louis XVI and Napoleon III, who gave it its current name in 1867. The fort also served as a prison during World War II, from 1940 to 1942. Situated about ten kilometers from the South Basse-Terre coast, it strategically opposed the batteries of Guadeloupe to control the Canal of Les Saintes at the time. The fort underwent a revitalization plan by the Departmental Council between 2020 and 2022, involving restoration and the establishment of a museum highlighting the 1782 battle between the French and the English.

Talking about the visit, it’s actually pretty fun, in our view, if you can ignore the crowd, you know, because we’re definitely not the only ones checking it out! There’s a well-maintained trail around the fort, offering stunning views of the bay of Marigot on one side and the town of Terre-de-Haut on the other! The whole place is nicely landscaped with lots of local flowers and shrubs. To be honest, it’s well done. We wrap up the tour by wandering through all the set-up rooms, now turned into a museum displaying stuff like the 1782 battle, local biodiversity, the geology of the area, navigation techniques, the evolution of life on the island, changes in clothing like the famous salako (a local hat of Vietnamese origin), etc. Taking the kids through the rooms can be a bit tricky since it’s quite long, and they start getting bored unless there’s something catching their attention. You know how kids are!

In short, I think it’s a must-see. You’ll be amazed by the panoramic views over the heights, and as a bonus, you’ll learn a lot about local and past life!

We’re switching gears here, but let’s be clear – there are some stunning beaches on Terre-de-Haut, including the famous Pain de Sucre Beach. If you’re a fan of lounging by the sea, turquoise waters, and white sandy beaches, you’re in for a treat here!

Located in the southwest of the island, a 10-minute walk from the Bois Joli hotel where we stayed (we’ll talk more about that later), it’s like THE ultimate paradise beach and the most famous sand beach on the island. Is it the most beautiful? Not necessarily, you know, “to each their own”! This is often the beach you’ll see in pictures when people talk about Terre-de-Haut. We went there twice, at two different times of the day to see how it is : each has its own charm.

During sunset, in the late afternoon, you get to enjoy some beautiful golden hues right in front of you, but the turquoise colors and the beauty of the lagoon aren’t as visible at that time. To catch those beautiful colors, it’s best to come in the mid or late morning. You reach the beach via a bumpy dirt path that descends from the road. You can’t miss it – there’s a sign, and lots of people parked around. It’s practically the end of the island, just before the Bois Joli hotel, heading towards Crawen Beach. A 10-minute walk leads to this small cove with blonde sand. The place is undoubtedly beautiful, but it can get a bit crowded, especially when we were there, with loud music coming from the house right next to the beach. In terms of a chill atmosphere, it’s a bit so-so. But maybe it’s not like that all the time.

On this beach you can go snorkelling and discover the marine fauna. I went underwater, it’s a nice spot but not mind-blowing. Once again, it depends on what you’re used to seeing and where you’ve snorkeled before. There’s nothing on-site for food or drinks, but there’s a small snack spot where you can stop on your right, going down the dirt path. It’s doable with kids/babies, just be cautious because it can be slippery.

From Pain de Sucre Beach, you can reach Anse Devant by taking a small path that winds behind the houses situated at the back. It’s a small, deserted beach located on the other side of Pain de Sucre. Here, it’s peaceful, with nobody around. Unfortunately, during our visit, the beach was filled with Sargassum. It might still be worth checking out the place if you have the time because the area is nice!

That’s a beautiful beach with light-colored sand, I’d say less crowded than Pain de Sucre. It’s located about 300/400m south of the Bois Joli Hotel (where we stayed). You can actually walk there from the hotel, but be prepared for a steep climb! If you have some means of transportation, which we recommend anyway for exploring Terre-de-Haut, just go down the bumpy road leading towards the sea, just to the right of what looks like an informal dump. The end of the road turns into a dirt path, and it’s better to park like everyone else on the left side a bit before you arrive.

We went back there on two occasions at different times of the day. The beach stretches out to a lovely length of about 100 meters. It’s worth noting that there’s not much shade, just along the few coconut trees on the right. Alternatively, you can set up further back in the grassy area of the beach on a flat spot, which can be nice for families too. We spent several hours strolling along this beautiful beach with crystal-clear waters. Let’s enjoy the stunning colors of the area and admire the surroundings, which are rarely crowded—at least during the two times we visited. The sand beach, however, has a bit more wave action than Pain de Sucre, although I wouldn’t consider it dangerous.

Let’s be clear: in my opinion, it’s definitely not the most beautiful beach on the island. When I passed by, the beach was covered in seaweed, even though the water color was still relatively nice. The beach isn’t really developed and is located at the outlet of ravines. It’s situated to the south of Terre-de-Haut, accessible via the road at the exit of the town towards the Chameau hike. Just follow the signs towards Morne à Craie and the beach. During the descent, notice on your left the large meadows where the local goats graze.

Note that there’s a lodge on this bay (Gite de l’Anse Figuier) that seems to have a very good reputation. However, you end up a bit isolated and not necessarily right by the most beautiful beach. I’m not sure if I would really recommend staying here (in terms of location), but if you enjoy peace and a beautiful view of the bay, given the lodge’s reviews, I think it’s a good spot. You can actually observe this bay and the lodge from the path that goes up to the Chameau. I’ll tell you more about it below.

I’m not going to say too much about this beach, simply because bathing I not allowed. This beautiful, over one-kilometer-long blonde sandy beach is located along the road that leads to Anse Rodrigue, which is really worth a look and my favorite in Terre-de-Haut. Regarding Grande Anse Beach, it’s exposed to strong winds, and you’ll find a powerful current and waves. Depending on the season, like during my visit, there was a lot of Sargassum as well.

However, it’s an ideal beach if you want to take a walk along a beautiful shoreline with the lovely colors of the evening. At sunset, it’s perfect and offers a beautiful view of the opposite island, Dominica. But for swimming, no hesitation, you should head to Anse Rodrigue.

I just mentioned it above. It’s definitely our favorite spot with Mélanie and the kids. We went back there twice to swim because the place is truly beautiful. Everything is just as we like it here: a lovely little beach with white sand, nestled between two sheer cliffs, calm and turquoise water, and even a small snack if you feel like eating on the spot.

The beach is well protected and truly ideal for bathing, even with children or babies. Note on your left a large meadow where you’ll find the famous local goats grazing in beautiful tall grass. It’s very photogenic, for sure. Don’t forget to take a look at the small pond where you might catch a glimpse of turtle heads as you arrive! A beach that we clearly recommend for having a good time, whether with your partner, family, or even alone! I remember the place well because that’s where I dropped my camera, and I almost destroyed everything. Luckily, it was more fright than damage… but it taught me a lesson nonetheless…

This is also one of the most well-known beaches in the area, both among tourists and locals. This beautiful 800-meter-long beach offers visitors a nice experience. However, I didn’t fall in love with it. I’m not saying it’s not worth a look, but during our visit, the beach was covered in seaweed, which obviously detracts a bit from the scenery. Of course, it’s seasonal…

However, the beach is relatively well-equipped, and you can find some huts and tables in the shade at the back, perfect for having a picnic on the beach. This beautiful bay is also the starting point for several hikes that I’ll tell you about later: the Trace des Crêtes (to the south) and the walk to Morne Morel (I went there with Louis), which offers a breathtaking view of the entire bay, the beach, and the surrounding rocky islets.

There’s a small snack just before reaching the beach that offers some snacks to eat on the spot, all by the side of a cursed fig tree!

Here’s another cute little beach in the area. It’s not necessarily the ideal beach for swimming in my opinion, but the surroundings exude tranquility and authenticity. Take a moment to admire the local fishermen’s boats, and why not come back in the late afternoon to see the result of their catch.

It’s also one of the starting points for the hike up Morne Morel, the one I mentioned earlier, accessible from several paths.

I’ve given you a glimpse above of what I consider worth checking out during your stay here. But there are other small bays. In the town, you have several beaches along the edge, including Anse Mire, Anse du Bourg, Anse du Fond Curé, and Petite Anse.

Note that you can also go swimming at Anse à Cointe, the beach of Hotel du Bois Joli, where we stayed for 3 nights. The beach is quite nice, but you’re at a hotel, so in my opinion, there are better options elsewhere.

A small mention also to the beach located right next to the “Les Balançoires” restaurant, on the way out of the town towards Hotel Bois Joli (I’ll talk about the restaurant below). The beach is not ideal as it’s by the roadside and especially right next to the restaurant, but nevertheless, I suggest a short 15-minute walk that will allow you to admire the surroundings. Take the path leading to the restaurant, towards the “Tête Rouge” battery. You can park there and climb on the remains of an old battery, all amidst goats and iguanas. From the top, you have a beautiful view of the town, the beach below, and Fort Napoleon, right in front of you on the opposite hill.

Note that you can rent kayaks by the hour, half-day, or full day from the small path below. Also, there’s a diving club here, “La Dive Bouteille Plongées des Saintes,” which seems to have a good reputation.

I’m willing to bet that few tourists bother to walk and explore the hikes in Terre-de-Haut. However, there are some beautiful trails to consider. I had the opportunity to climb Le Chameau and do the hike to Morne Morel. I missed the Trace des Crêtes because I didn’t search enough, which is a shame. Next time!

Since Mélanie wasn’t feeling great during our stay (and the kids either), I decided to get up early and set off for the sunrise or almost sunrise to explore this hike that everyone locally known as “Le Chameau” (The Camel). To give you an idea of the location, we are at the extreme west of Terre-de-Haut, near the mountain overlooking Hotel Bois Joli and Anse Crawen. There are two options for this walk. You can either take the paved road that goes up (the road has been closed to motor vehicles for a while, I believe), or take a trail that starts at the access road to Crawen Beach. You can see a white sign with a white arrow indicating the path. From what I’ve heard and seen on the contour lines on the map, the trail seems really steep.

Admitting to being a bit lazy, I decided to use the road. An early wake-up at 6 a.m., and here I am on this little walk to gather the first light of the sun. Some practical info: if you want to see the beautiful colors of the lagoon, it’s better to come in the late afternoon. However, you may risk having much hotter weather than in the morning at 6/7 a.m., where the road is entirely in the shade and quite cool. In fact, for photos, it’s not necessarily ideal to go up early in the morning because the sun rises behind the town, and you have the sun facing you in that direction, even if the colors are soft… On the contrary, leaving in the morning gives you beautiful light towards Terre-de-Bas on the other side. In short, a matter of choice, as often.

The road kicks off pretty chill, surrounded by greenery. You can tell it’s more or less abandoned because there is a lot of vegetation encroaching on the road and rocks scattered around. The road winds along the slope and gradually climbs through steeper sections. Even at 6:30 a.m., it’s enough to break a little sweat. Locals seem to know this place well—I spot a few early birds taking their morning stroll. Along the way up, there are some cool viewpoints, both overlooking the town and the “Îlet à Cabrits” side.

It’s peaceful, with birds singing and not many folks around—just some goats, chickens, butterflies, and those big caterpillars chilling on the Frangipani trees. The climb gets steep at times, and I think about Mélanie, who would probably have grumbled a lot here, haha! In less than an hour of walking, I already see the top of the hike with a beautiful view of the Chameau building poking its nose. A little push, and I’m up there enjoying the fantastic view of the town.

Like me, feel free to head a few hundred meters lower, continuing as if you want to go down the trail towards the Bois Joli hotel. You can stop at the rocks with a red heart for a nice view of Terre-de-Bas, right in front. The beautiful light is there, just looking straight ahead, as the sun is behind us.

I go back down the same way I came to join the kids and Mélanie for breakfast at the hotel (which is much needed!).

In the end, I think it’s really a walk to do if you’re passing through. The trail is nice, shaded, calm, and you have some superb viewpoints along the climb.

I went with Louis one afternoon to do this hike, with Mélanie staying with Téo for a nap. Practically speaking, you can start the walk from several places, either from the Baie du Marigot (on the right side of the bay), behind the college and the Marigot Police Station (which we did), or from the path leading to Pompierre Beach.

So, we set off in the afternoon heat, and Louis wasn’t too thrilled about the uphill from the start. We had to distract him a bit to get him moving along the trail. The beginning is a steep rocky path with not much shade… The weather was so-so, and the initial views weren’t that great with the gray skies. It’s a shame because with the sun shining, I believe the view of Baie du Marigot would be fantastic. But we remained optimistic. Climbing 130 meters to the top of the mountain, we reached an old battery in ruins.

A few moments later, the weather cleared up, and the view was spectacular. No regrets about coming here; the scenery was truly breathtaking. We took a break on a bench, perched at the top, and admired the idyllic view of the beach below : Pompierre Beach. Definitely, the view was absolutely stunning. We continue to the tip, all the way to the end, which provides another view, especially on the other side towards the other points (Zozio, Morel, and du Vent) as well as towards Guadeloupe.

We finish the walk by following the loop indicated on the map that leads to Pointe Morel. Luckily, it was much easier on this side, which was a relief for Louis.

Some time ago, this hike used to allow a trek from Grande Anse Beach to Pompierre Beach. From what I’ve read and heard, that’s no longer possible. Nevertheless, you can still do a part of the hike starting from Pompierre Beach towards “Grosse Pointe” and even continue all the way to the “Grand Souffleur.”

I must admit, I should have closely examined the island’s topographic map because the trail is marked on it. Just so you know, the trail begins on the east side of the beach, and it appears there’s a yellow marking to show you the way up to Grosse Pointe. coastline views along the route seem fantastic, from what I could gather. Next time for sure!

Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to go there during our short stay (turns out three days on the island is pretty brief, actually…). I would have liked to visit because, from what I’ve heard, the hike seems really enjoyable. It apparently is an easy hike, with little elevation, offering numerous viewpoints of the lagoon, Terre-de-Haut, and Guadeloupe, along with many historical remains to explore. That’s on the agenda for next time.

I need to figure out how people usually get there. I know kayaking is an option (doesn’t seem too far), but I bet there are some fishermen offering rides. If you’ve got any info, drop it in the comments!

Well, yes, I’ll give you that – strolling around the town of Terre-de-Haut is not exactly a hardcore hike, haha. But, all in all, it’s worth it, and we spent a good 2 hours wandering through the narrow streets. It’s a mixed bag here; some folks will love the stroll, and others might think it’s a tourist trap…

The truth is probably somewhere in between. Personally, we enjoyed wandering through the streets for a bit. Yes, it’s undoubtedly touristy, and you might be “a bit disappointed” at times, seeing a string of tourist shops, ice cream vendors, and pareo sellers. However, if you step away from these main streets, you’ll likely appreciate it. That’s just my personal take.

I feel that even though the place is incredibly touristy, you still vibe well there, especially after 5:30 PM when the daily tourist influx heads back to Guadeloupe. Taking the time to explore the small streets, whether on foot, by bike, or in a golf cart, is really enjoyable. It’s a laid-back atmosphere, very calm, and you get to take the time to observe things.

So, I’m wrapping up this little account of our 3 days there, hoping to have sparked your interest for an excursion in this beautiful island of Terre-de-Haut.

Now, let’s move on to the practical side, which should also interest you.

As usual, I conclude this (already quite lengthy) article with all the information you need to know for visiting Terre-de-Haut.

I won’t repeat what I wrote in my article explaining how to get to Guadeloupe. It seems obvious, but you will first need to go to Guadeloupe to reach Les Saintes. Unless you arrive by sailboat from another Caribbean island (lucky you!), you will inevitably arrive by plane at Pointe-à-Pitre, the only international airport on the island.

If you are planning your trip to Les Saintes, I recommend checking and comparing flight prices on Skyscanner, a site I have been recommending for a long time. I always use it to compare prices and find good deals. From Paris, with some flexibility, it’s possible to find round-trip flights starting from €400, although I have the impression that flight prices have increased recently, don’t you? Also, check flights from provincial airports, as you can also find good deals.

Once there, you will need a car rental for your stay, and as usual, I recommend checking on the Discover cars website, which allows you to compare rates from many island rental companies. However, you won’t find rental companies on Terre-de-Haut on this site. I’ll explain below the different options for getting around this beautiful tropical island.

But let’s get back to the subject: how to get to Terre-de-Haut. You have no other choice but to take a boat. Three possibilities are available, depending on where you are in Guadeloupe. So, you can choose:

• Departure from the Bergevin ferry terminal. You can park either in the free car park at the entrance, which fills up quickly, or in the paid car park next to the ticket office. This is a closed car park, close to the embarkation area. Allow 1 hour for the transfer to Terre-de-Haut.
• As far as I know, the two main companies serving Terre-de-Haut from Pointe-à-Pitre are Express des îles and Val’Ferry. I’ll leave it to you to check the departure days, which can vary. Prices are very similar, around €35 to €40 return for an adult.

If you are on the island of Basse-Terre, you can go from the city of the same name.

• Only the company CTM Deher offers the crossing from the city of Basse-Terre, although clearly, it’s not the most common crossing. If you are in the area, it’s better to go to Trois-Rivières to take the boat.
• However, their website is poorly designed, without English translation, and it does not seem possible to book the Basse-Terre to Terre-de-Haut crossing online. It is mentioned that you can buy tickets at the time of boarding. Apparently, you can also buy tickets at the Basse-Terre Tourism Office (next to the town hall) or at the Tourism Office in Bouillante, Petit-Bourg, Pointe-Noire, or Basse-Terre. For the round-trip, expect: €29 for an adult and €22 for a child (2-11 years).

This is the simplest, shortest, and most logical option since you are facing Les Saintes. Obviously, for us, it’s the most obvious choice since we live less than 15 minutes from the Trois-Rivières dock. Regardless of the company you choose, check their website because prices/hours/dates are subject to change.
Remember:

• Val’Ferry, CTM Deher, and Beatrix offer crossings from the town of Trois-Rivières to Terre-de-Haut. Allow 20 to 30 minutes for the crossing. We always choose Val’Ferry, and we have never had any issues.
• Val’Ferry offers paid parking (€5/day), which we always take. If you don’t want to pay, you’ll have to park along the road (with the risks that entails). It’s up to you.
• Regarding Val’Ferry, there are 2 crossings per day (9 am and 5 pm). Expect €22 to 27€ round trip per adult, and Flash rates are available for less.
• CTM Deher also offers several crossings per day, at a rate of (round trip): €23 per adult / €16 per child.
  Beatrix also offers rotations between Trois-Rivières and Terre-de-Haut with a 96-seat speedboat.

Here’s a thought-provoking question. There’s no one-size-fits-all solution, and it all boils down to your preferences, budget, and travel style. In my view:

• The island is certainly very small, but I think considering walking for 2 or 3 days is, in my opinion, too much of a hassle. Especially if (like us) you are with family and young children; it’s close to impossible. If you’re on a budget and traveling alone, you might consider it (but honestly, I don’t recommend it, considering the island is not flat).
• I also don’t think it’s interesting to rent a “regular” car, and even thinking about it, I didn’t see many cars.
• The other interesting and cheaper option is to rent bikes from one of the island’s rental agencies. You can rent standard bikes or electric-assisted bikes (EAB). We saw quite a few people on EABs during our three days. Expect to pay between €25 and €30 per day, which, in my opinion, is not particularly interesting. If you are a couple, you will have to rent two EABs, costing €50 to €60 per day. For a little extra (€70 or €80 depending on the number of people), you have an electric cart, which we chose as an option. So, it depends.
• You can also rent a scooter. Expect to pay around €30 to €35, depending on the rental agencies.
• So, well, the nicest solution for me is the electric cart, like a small golf cart. I had heard about it before coming, and we really loved it. It’s very easy to drive, easy to maneuver, perfect for parking. There are also many rental agencies on the island offering this service. In my opinion, if you are a family (more than 2 people), it’s simply the best solution!

As always in the islands, there’s something for everyone here: from simple guesthouses to Airbnb (houses or apartments) to hotels with pools. I won’t go into detail about Airbnb since the choices are too numerous, and I’ll let you form your own opinion. Since then, we’ve put together a complete guide to where to stay in Les Saintes, including details of accommodation in Terre-de-Haut!

Hotel Bois-Joli: This is where we chose to stay for the 3 days. It’s located at the extreme southwest of the island, not far from Crawen Beach. The place is idyllic, the family room is clean and spacious. Everything is air-conditioned, the bedding is very comfortable, all with a small terrace and a mini garden in front. There’s also a nice pool with a sea view. Honestly, we had a great time, and we’d totally recommend it. The only downer (if you can call it that) is the food; it’s not exactly amazing and kind of pricey. We preferred to eat elsewhere for better and cheaper options. Also, keep in mind that you are somewhat secluded, and having a means of transportation is recommended, which I recommend in any case. It’s more on the “upscale” side here, but you get a nice service, with a pool and breakfast included.
Here are some other ideas based on your budget per night. I’ve selected only accommodations with very good feedback.

Up to €50 per night:

• Les hamacs aux Saintes: come and discover this campsite for an experience out of the ordinary! You’ll sleep in a hammock under the stars. You’ll come away with lots of stories to tell.

From €50 to €100:

• Sur l’Anse: You can choose from 3 studios with stunning sea views! They’re comfortable and well-equipped. All you have to do is enjoy!
• Gîtes dans un jardin: close to the famous Marigot bay, this holiday home can accommodate up to 5 people! All comforts are provided. You’ll enjoy your stay in total tranquillity!
• ESCALE CREOLE: next to Pain de Sucre and Crawen beach, this property offers two fully equipped apartments with breathtaking sea views!

Beyond €100:

• Village Le Pré: A charming aparthotel right next to the famous Pain de Sucre beach! You’ll have all the comforts you need for a perfect holiday with family or friends!
• Residence Hôteliere Hurlevent: This 4-star hotel offers a heavenly setting with magnificent sea views. As for services, there’s a spa and jacuzzi, which is always a plus!
• Les Trésors de Laurëlia: here you’ll find several small one-room houses! They’re spacious, comfortable and well equipped! As a bonus, you’ll have access to a swimming pool. You’re going to love this place!

You can also check this link to discover all the accommodations in Terre-de-Haut.

A quick note here. Apart from the hikes and sandy beaches mentioned earlier, there are indeed a few other activities you can enjoy, such as:

• Scuba Diving: Two clubs, to my knowledge, are La Dive Bouteille and Pisquettes Plongée, both of which seem to have a good reputation. I haven’t tried them.
• Kayaking: You can also rent a kayak at several places, for example, at Clear BlueCaraïbes.
• Water Sports: Boat rentals, paddleboarding, or electric foil boarding are available, notably at Sunsea Balado.
• Catamaran: It’s also possible to explore the beautiful islands of the Saintes archipelago by catamaran. I found two excursions with a local provider, lasting 2 or 3 hours. Regarding this, we had the opportunity to try the 2-hour trip ourselves, providing a great introduction to sailing in the Saintes archipelago. Feel free to check out our account!

You can also hire Donut BBQs, pontoon boats, electric bikes, inflatable kayaks or pedal boats. All can be booked using the link below. We’ve also tried some activities with Loisirs aux Saintes and they were really great!

As a typical French guy who loves food, it’s always nice to have some recommendations for good dining, right? I can share what we’ve tried so far:

• Les Balançoires: We had lunch there, and it was fantastic. The setting is superb adn idyllic, right on the beach. The food was really delicious, served promptly, and the desserts were excellent. Highly recommended. Make a reservation here to secure a spot.
• Ti Bo Doudou: Another style, but even better in my opinion. We went there one evening (but I saw the spot during the day by the lagoon, superb). The setting is great, calm, with excellent service from the owner and waitstaff. The food was truly excellent to our taste, with presentation efforts as a bonus. We’re not there to eat a lot, but to eat well. That suits us. The desserts were also delicious. We recommend it 100%.

We only dined at these two places. Regarding the restaurant at the hotel Bois-Joli, as mentioned earlier, we don’t particularly recommend it. Any other recommendations? Let us know in the comments!

As always, it’s a very personal opinion. Personally, I think it’s a shame to only spend one day on Terre-de-Haut. Even if you just want to tour the beaches and go for a hike, it will take at least 2 days. Not to mention the time it takes to pick up your means of transportation upon arrival and to be there a little early to return it and catch the boat. In reality, it doesn’t even give you a full day. In my opinion, three full days, like we did, were just right. A fourth day would have allowed us to go to Îlet Cabri for a walk.

Here’s a question you’ll definitely be asking yourself if you’re planning a stay in the Les Saintes archipelago. As is often the case, it all depends on what kind of experience you want to have, what activities you want to do, in short, what you’re looking for. The island of Terre-de-Haut is clearly more developed and touristy, and you’ll have the chance to do more activities, eat in better restaurants, or enjoy more beautiful beaches. Terre-de-Bas is much quieter, more authentic, but there’s clearly less to do. It’s a matter of taste, but for just one day, for a tourist coming from the mainland, I would still recommend heading to Terre-de-Haut.

Even though these islands are very close, they offer distinct experiences. Terre-de-Haut is more developed, geared towards tourism, with shops, restaurants every few meters, and rental services for bikes, scooters, and golf carts everywhere. Clearly, if you enjoy a bit of tourism, I wouldn’t recommend going to Terre-de-Bas. However, Terre-de-Bas is much quieter, serene, and secluded compared to Terre-de-Haut, which, in a way, might have lost some of its old charms. To me, these are two different islands, and you don’t visit them for the same reasons.

I enjoyed Terre-de-Bas for four days as a place to unwind with family, relax, not do much, and simply enjoy. Terre-de-Haut is more tourism-oriented, offering more activities. The beautiful sandy beaches are mostly on Terre-de-Haut as well.

It’s a matter of taste.

Alright I’m coming to the end of this article on Terre-de-Haut, in Les Saintes. I hope it made you want to visit our beautiful Guadeloupe!
Sure thing! It’s still a favorite for us. We really loved checking out the beautiful beaches and charming streets, all while taking it easy on island time. If you’re traveling to Guadeloupe, Les Saintes is a must-visit. Spending a few days there is a blast!

See you soon, and feel free to read the article on Marie-Galante. We’re heading there soon. Also, while you’re in Guadeloupe and if you love peaceful and delightful spots to discover, I recommend you to visit La Désirade, a little gem in the West Indies!

Written by Sylvain PONS

Since 2021, I've been living in the Guadeloupe archipelago with Mélanie and our two children. We are exploring these beautiful islands and discovering the treasures that we are happy to share with you!

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