Sailing trip to Les Saintes

At the time of writing, Mélanie and I are in the middle of a project that has been close to our hearts for the past few months. We’ll be incredibly proud when it’s finished. In the meantime, we made the most of the long weekend to go sailing in the Saintes archipelago, setting off from the island of Terre-de-Haut.

To be honest, Mélanie and I don’t have much sailing experience. Wind is fairly rare in Polynesia, although sailing is still possible there. Since moving to the West Indies, however, it’s an activity that has really appealed to us, so when the opportunity came up, we jumped at it.

If you’ve been following the blog for a while, you’ll know that we often recommend Manawa, a website for booking outdoor activities online. We know the platform well and have had several opportunities to try activities in partnership with them. More recently, we went microlighting from Saint-François. We also went kayaking in the mangroves of Morne-à-l’Eau and scuba diving off the island of Désirade.

Although this trip was organized in partnership with Manawa and the Voile Ô Saintes club, as always, we retained complete freedom over what we wrote and said. Our only aim is to give an honest account of what we experienced while sailing in Les Saintes. So, without further ado, here’s how our sailing trip through the Saintes archipelago unfolded.

Before packing your bags, don’t forget to read our complete guide to Les Saintes.

They say it’s a small world, and this trip proved it. We met Arnaud, a qualified sailor with a real passion for the sea and sailing, who has lived on Terre-de-Haut with his partner for several years. The funny part is that Arnaud also spent a long time in Polynesia and even founded one of the first sailing clubs on Moorea. As it turns out, we were living in Polynesia at the same time, although our paths never crossed. Small world indeed.

Today, Arnaud takes visitors around the Saintes archipelago aboard Saga, his 8-meter catamaran. Several options are available depending on what you’re looking for: a few hours, half a day, or a full day of sailing. We tried the two-hour introductory session, designed to teach the basics of sailing and how to maneuver a catamaran.

This is just one of the fun things we’ve been able to do here. If you’re looking for more ideas, have a look at the other things to do in Guadeloupe during your holiday!

Let’s dive straight into the trip with a short travelogue. I hope you enjoy it and that it makes you want to explore the archipelago for yourself. We live directly across from Les Saintes, in the commune of Vieux-Fort. Early that morning, we headed to the port of Trois-Rivières to catch the ferry to Terre-de-Haut. As usual, we traveled with Val Ferry, a company we’ve always trusted and have never had any problems with. Despite the light haze of Saharan dust that is common at this time of year, the weather was fairly mild.

We crossed the famous Canal des Saintes without much difficulty. The sea was a little choppy, but nothing serious. As a precaution, Mélanie took a seasickness tablet. When we arrived, we made our way to Le Génois restaurant, at the far end of the pontoon on the left. Someone was already waiting there, so we knew we were in the right place. It was Arnaud. The water was remarkably clear. We introduced ourselves and immediately hit it off, quickly realizing how much we had in common: we had both spent several years living in French Polynesia.

Arnaud began with a detailed safety briefing, paying particular attention to the children, who had to keep their life jackets on throughout the trip. Louis was thrilled at the thought of sailing and steering the catamaran. Arnaud was calm, reassuring, and completely at ease with the children, and his passion for what he does was obvious. That made all the difference. Throughout the two-hour trip, he also shared plenty of explanations with us.

We left the harbor under motor to move away from the other boats. The wind had been blowing for several days, creating ideal conditions for our first sailing experience in the archipelago. Once the engine was switched off, Arnaud showed us how to hoist the mainsail. Louis put all his strength into it, and I helped him with the final few meters. He has been drawn to the sea since he was born, and seven years later, that fascination is still very much there. Arnaud took him under his wing, explaining how to steer and how the catamaran worked. Louis picked it up quickly and was clearly delighted—it was wonderful to watch.

With a favorable wind carrying us toward Terre-de-Bas, we sailed quietly out of the harbor. We love this island for its peaceful, authentic atmosphere; you can read our thoughts on the four days we spent there by following the link above. Riding the wind, we passed the well-known Pain de Sucre beach, nestled beside an imposing rock formation. From the water, you can clearly see the basalt columns created as lava cooled. Pain de Sucre rises 52 meters above sea level, and the site has been protected since May 2, 1930.

Everyone enjoyed the trip, with the wind blowing through our hair. There’s something special about moving across the water under sail, without the constant noise of an engine. I had experienced that feeling before during a 10-day cruise through the Tuamotu Islands in Polynesia, although we didn’t sail the entire time. Wind is generally less consistent there than in Guadeloupe, but this brought back vivid memories of my time aboard a catamaran in the atolls.

Halfway across, my cap blew into the sea and I nearly lost it. Thanks to Arnaud’s skillful maneuvering, we managed to recover it! We then continued toward Terre-de-Bas, drawing steadily closer. Mélanie and Téo relaxed in the shade of the mainsail. Although Téo is more reserved and less drawn to the sea than his brother, he was clearly enjoying himself too.

After about 45 minutes, we reached the coast of Terre-de-Bas. We left the island’s main bay, Anse des Muriers, to our right. This is where the handful of visitors who come to explore the island usually disembark. Just beyond Pointe à Nègres, we entered the broad Baie des Tortues, named after the roughly 30 turtles that are often seen there. Unfortunately, there was a great deal of sargassum in the bay, as there was along much of Guadeloupe’s east coast at the time. According to Arnaud, the water was also far rougher than usual. Even so, only a few boats were around, and the bay remained wonderfully quiet—a world away from the most touristy parts of Moorea, for example.

Mélanie and Louis went into the water to look for turtles, while I stayed on the catamaran with Téo. Arnaud and I talked and compared our experiences. We shared a similar view of Polynesia—an “authentic Polynesia” that seemed to be gradually disappearing. He explained that Moorea had changed considerably, and not always for the better, between his arrival in 2008 and his departure in 2018. Tourism had expanded dramatically, with more and more companies offering excursions by the time he left. Arnaud also told us about the historic Fidelin pottery site in the bay, where more than 100 enslaved people worked between 1810 and 1840.

Sheltered from the wind in this beautiful bay, we spent a pleasant half hour. Mélanie managed to spot a small turtle feeding in the seagrass, while Louis took the opportunity to swim, although he was less enthusiastic about the sargassum—and I can’t blame him. We were also treated to a small refreshment break: tourments d’amour with coconut, a delicious local cake, guava juice for the children, and planteur punch for us. Perfect.

We set off quietly toward Terre-de-Haut, tacking our way back. Louis was still at the helm and looked delighted. In the end, we spent around two and a half hours at sea, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed the experience. It was a refreshing change from the usual lagoon excursion powered by a noisy engine. Arnaud was excellent throughout, and we can genuinely recommend the trip. It also felt like a private mini-cruise, since it was just the four of us on board. We loved it.

Back on the pontoon, we took our time and went out for an excellent meal at the Ti Kaz’La restaurant. It had been Arnaud’s recommendation and we were very pleasantly surprised. Although the prices seemed a little high, we personally loved it. However, I would say it was a semi-gastronomic experience, considering the effort put into the presentation and the quality of the food.

We ended the day with a peaceful swim in the bay with the children. We had a great day! Thank you Arnaud.

You can also stay on their other catamaran (Cypraea) with Arnaud and Valentine (and their daughter Zoé). It’s an experience I’ve had several times. If you’re tempted, you’ll be welcomed as if you were at home! Try the experience with them!

After discovering the wonders of Les Saintes under sail, why not continue your nautical adventure in Guadeloupe? Discover îlet du Gosier, another of Guadeloupe’s pearls, where nature and watersports come together for a truly cool experience! The îlet du Gosier is a must during your stay, whether you’re snorkelling, kayaking or simply enjoying a relaxing day on its fine sandy beaches.

I’ll keep this short, but I wanted to give you some information.

I won’t repeat all the details covered in our articles on Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de-Bas. Several companies operate crossings from Basse-Terre, Pointe-à-Pitre, and Trois-Rivières. Fares vary by operator, route, passenger age, and booking conditions. As of 2026, CTM Deher lists an adult same-route fare of €25 between Trois-Rivières and Terre-de-Haut, while discounted booking rates may also be available. Always check the operator’s website before traveling. When we made the trip as a family of four with two children, we paid €85.

If you’re coming from Guadeloupe for the day and plan to go sailing, there’s no need to rent a vehicle. The catamaran is moored at the far end of the quay where the ferry arrives. However, if you’re staying for several days and want to explore Terre-de-Haut—which we definitely recommend—renting a small electric cart can be very convenient. During our long weekend, we rented from Aquablue. The company has an excellent reputation, and we had a very good experience. Current prices vary depending on the vehicle and rental period, so check directly with the company before booking.

If you need a rental car in Guadeloupe, the DiscoverCars comparison site often offers great prices!

There’s plenty of choice when it comes to accommodation in Terre-de-Haut. Here are some of the places we recommend:

• Ti’ Paradis: pleasant little apartment on Marigot beach!
• Hôtel Bois Joli: this is where we stayed, a very nice place with a swimming pool, ideal for children. A bit isolated though. You should bring a car.
• Gîtes dans un jardin: a very nice cottage situated on the top of a hill, in the main village.
• Escale Créole: located near the beach of Crawen, this establishment has an excellent reputation.
• Résidence Hôtelière Hurlevent: a high-quality hotel residence with a lovely setting.

In Terre-de-Haut, we were able to take part in a range of water sports with Loisirs aux Saintes – a real treat!

That brings us to the end of this article about sailing in Les Saintes. I hope this short account and the photos make you want to discover the archipelago from the water too!

See you soon, and if you like the Guadeloupe islands, I invite you to read our article on the beautiful island of Désirade.

See you soon.

Written by Sylvain PONS

Since 2021, I've been living in the Guadeloupe archipelago with Mélanie and our two children. We are exploring these beautiful islands and discovering the treasures that we are happy to share with you!

Despite our care, a mistake may have slipped into this article. If you find any, please don't hesitate to let us know so we can correct it as soon as possible and keep our information up-to-date!