What to do in Marie-Galante?

It’s been ten days since we returned from our holiday on the island of Marie-Galante. It’s the famous island that everyone knows from the song by Laurent Voulzy (“Belle-île-en-mer – Marie-Galante”). I’m sure the song will be stuck in your head at least as you read this article.

As is often the case when family and friends come to visit, we take the opportunity to discover other parts of the island that we haven’t seen before. So we took advantage of Mélanie’s mum’s arrival for a month to visit the island of Marie-Galante, off the coast of Pointe des Châteaux, here in Guadeloupe. It was also the last island in Guadeloupe, with the exception of the northern islands (Saint-Martin and Saint-Barthélemy), that we hadn’t been able to visit since we moved to Guadeloupe.

Last year we’d already had the chance to discover Désirade, Terre-de-Bas and Terre-de-Haut (the Saintes Archipelago) during excursions. And I must say that each time it’s been a real pleasure. Because even if you live on an island all year round, a trip to another small island is a great way to get away from it all, away from your daily routine and, above all, away from your thoughts.

So it was with great pleasure that we set off to discover the beautiful island of Marie-Galante for a 7 days-trip. As usual, we’re told that this is “too much”, but if you’ve followed us for a while, you’ll know that we like to take our time, visit at our own pace and, most importantly, at the pace of our family (we have two kids aged 2 and 7).

We’ve put together a full article on the must-sees in Les Saintes.

As is often the case with our ‘travel articles’, we’ve split this one into two parts. The first gives you all the must-see and must-do things/places on Marie-Galante. The second part of the article will give you all you need to know about the practical side (when, for how long, where to sleep, where to eat, etc.).

If you’re looking for another must-see during your stay here, don’t hesitate to spend a day on the Petite-Terre islands, departing from Saint-François.

A few words about Marie-Galante:

• It is often referred to as “la Grande Galette” because of its round shape, or “l’île aux cent moulins” (the island of the hundred windmills) for obvious reasons,
• Located about 30 km east of mainland Guadeloupe, the island covers an area of 158 km2,
• The island is made up of three municipalities: Capesterre-de-Marie-Galante, Saint-Louis and Grand-Bourg,
• Marie-Galante is a limestone island, evidence of an ancient raised atoll as far as I could find.

Let me get straight to the heart of the matter by trying to classify all this according to what we saw during our visit to the island.

Marie-Galante is renowned for its distilleries, of which there are three on the island. Frankly speaking, if you’ve ever visited a distillery in Guadeloupe (such as Longueteau, Bologne or Montebello), you’re likely to be disappointed. In any case, that was generally the case for us. Admittedly, we’re not in the same category of distillery in Marie-Galante, but there’s not much to see in itself. After that, the three entrances are free on site (whereas you have to pay for them all here in Guadeloupe).

This was the first distillery we visited almost as soon as we arrived, and I found it the least interesting. As I said, the whole place is open to the public, with a shop selling rum on the left as you arrive, a shop selling local produce on the right and a small distillery complex at the back. To be honest, it’s a very quick walk and there’s very little to see, apart from a few old pieces from the era. But that’s about as far as it goes. Not to mention the fact that you’re mobbed by ladies at the exit who insist heavily on buying things to eat. Clearly, nobody was a fan of the place at all, which looks more like a place to buy rum than anything else…

We visited this second distillery, which has the merit of being in a much nicer setting than the Bielle distillery. The large car park at the entrance and the green spaces are quite nice. A long driveway leads to the site. You can see a beautiful mill that was being renovated (sort of) when we visited, but it’s in very good condition. A few old buildings can also be seen to one side. You can get to the main distillery building, where you can see the whole interior with a few explanations on panels. Nice, but not crazy either.

Finally, as in all distilleries, you can taste the rum in a small shop. The guy tasting was very nice and we bought a couple of bottles from him.

Due to the lack of interest (in our eyes) in the first two distilleries we visited, we didn’t bother to visit this one. The reviews also seemed average. To be seen then. On the other hand, we did eat at the Père Labat restaurant on the site. It seems that the owner has changed recently and the food isn’t as good as it used to be. But we really enjoyed our meal. I’m going to tell you more about it in the “Practical” section at the end of this article.

This is one of the main reasons, if not the main reason, to visit Marie-Galante. The island is full of truly remarkable beaches, from large white sandy beaches to small coves. Here’s a quick overview of the main beaches on Marie-Galante. These are the ones we had the chance to visit. There are many more, so don’t hesitate to tell me in the comments which ones you like just as much!

This was one of the first breathtaking beaches that we stopped off at with the kids in tow. Located on the east coast of Marie-Galante, in the commune of Capesterre-de-Marie-Galante, it’s a beach battered by easterly winds. We really enjoyed spending time with the family on this beautiful white sandy beach. You can walk the entire length of the beach without any problems. You can enjoy the beautiful overlookings of the surrounding turquoise waters. However, the sea is rougher on this side, although the children were able to swim along the shore without any problems. We didn’t try any restaurants on this side of the island, but there are several. If you have any good addresses, don’t hesitate to leave a comment at the end of this article.

This is also a spot for kite surfers, of which there were many when we visited. The wind was blowing pretty hard, it has to be said.

This is THE beach paradise of the island and is considered to be the most beautiful. Is it? I’d say it’s one of my favorites. It was recommended to us when we came here, but apparently it was often crowded. We went early in the morning and frankly there were only two other couples there, so it was still OK. We left when the crowds arrived in the middle of the morning.

Situated in the north-west of the island, 5 minutes north of Saint-Louis. You can park on site without any problems. It’s a minute’s walk through the forest to this beautiful white sandy cove. It’s framed by two areas of coastal cliffs. In the early morning the water is magnificent. The sea is very calm and the sand is perfect. It’s worth noting that there is shade in the morning. You can even eat under the shady trees at the back of the beach.

Finally, there is a hiking trail (“Trace du Vieux-Fort”) that allows you to walk along the sea from Vieux-Fort through Anse du Vieux-Fort, Anse Canot and Anse de Mays. Although it can be fun, we didn’t try this little stroll, but we did have a look at the three beaches in question. No restaurant on the spot (thankfully!).

This beach is located a short distance from Anse Canot, at the mouth of the Vieux-Fort River. You can take a kayak or pedalo ride down the river. The beach is also very nice, but it’s on the road. So I don’t think it’s a very good place to ‘rest’ for a while. Nevertheless, it is worth a visit.

This is the main beach of the town. We went there one evening for the sunset and it was really nice. The white sandy beach is large and beautiful. The sea is also quite calm here. The sea here is quite calm and great for swimming with the kids. There are a lot of restaurants in the area and it’s a good place for children. We didn’t go there during our stay, but we were recommended to go to Sun 7 Beach for a sunset drink.

We went there twice, but not really in good weather. I don’t think it’s the most interesting beach. On both sides of the beach you have a view of the two industries and the sound of the industries. So it’s not that great. Then Mélanie went back and apparently the water was really nice! It is a very big beach, stretching up to the Kawann Hotel. We’ll have to see if the beach along the coast is nicer.

Situated next to Anse Canot and Vieux-Fort beach. We went there twice (the second time we slept very close to each other). I have to say that the beach is really beautiful as well. At sunset the colours were gorgeous and it’s a nice big beach with fine sand to walk on. Beware of the mosquitoes (hence the name) which are voracious at sunset.

Located to the south-east of Marie-Galante, this is where we wanted to go because we’d heard it was one of the wildest beaches on the island. Unfortunately, the weather was really bad when we were in the area, so we didn’t try it. It’s a shame, but we’ll try again next time.

However, from the photos I was able to see, the place looks really lovely. It’s a 20 minute walk from a small car park. Apparently, there’s not much shade on the beach and two wooden huts to shelter in (we’ll have to wait and see if they’re still there?).

When I did a search on internet before I left, it wasn’t necessarily this beach that came up the most often. And yet I have to say that we went back twice because it felt so good. The beach was less than two minutes’ drive from where we were staying (Résidence Villa Zen à Ménard). It was in the village of Vieux Fort.

The beach is right on the road, just opposite the island of Vieux-Fort, with a small car park. Between two cliffs you’ll find a nice little bay with white sand. A little shade at the back. We had a great time there with the kids. Few people seem to stop here, which is all the better for us. We even took the opportunity to do some drone flying!

Trois-îlets concludes my tour of the Marie-Galante beaches. Located in the commune of Saint-Louis, we went there twice. The beach is not wide, but it’s endless, almost as far as the eye can see! We also went there in the early hours of one morning and to be honest, it’s absolutely quiet. We saw a few people taking advantage of the cool weather to walk along the beach…

Fun fact: there were lots of dragonflies here, who knows why. It’s shaded, so you don’t need to worry about children.

That’s the end of my tour of the beautiful beaches of Marie-Galante. There are certainly others that are more remote or wilder. I can see that there are small bays to the right and left, just by looking at the aerial photograph…

But that’s for another time.

This is the tourist place of Marie-Galante. Even on billboards, at the airport or in other tourist spots here in Guadeloupe, you will often see this big hole in the limestone rock.

We took the opportunity to visit it in the early hours of the morning, just a stone’s throw from where we slept to the north (Ménard). There’s plenty of parking, so there’s no need to worry. The weather was also on our side, so it was perfect.

A two minute walk (and still!) takes you to the site. Here you can see a huge hole carved out of the limestone cliff by the sea. It’s not a bad place, and quite photogenic. On both sides there are high cliffs, characteristic of the entire coastline on this side of the island. Mélanie even takes the opportunity (now that she’s had her training) to get her drone out for a few shots. There’s nothing to do here but enjoy the view!

This is an activity that was recommended to us. When I was in Marie-Galante for a day’s work, I also had this place. It’s located at the mouth of the river Vieux-Fort, just opposite the famous beach of the same name. You can’t really miss it, as it’s just before (or after, depending on which way you’re driving) the bridge over the river.

There’s a carbet on the site, which acts as a sort of ‘nautical base’. Here you can hire a kayak or pedalo to take you up the river Vieux-Fort, through the mangrove swamps. We’ve had the chance to paddle in the mangroves at Morne-à-l’Eau, so we’re familiar with the area from our time on the islands. It was a great experience. A few explanatory signs at the base tell you what you’ll see: the classic mangrove trees and red mangles (sharp grass), but as far as fauna is concerned, you might spot moorhens, turtle doves, the pipirit, the molokai turtle or the tarpon, which can grow up to 2.5 metres long!

The five of us set off on a pedalo to discover this beautiful corner of the world. The weather was glorious and the first few pedal strokes were superb in this environment we love so much. We’re in the middle of nature, no noise, and all we have to do is enjoy the place. The river is really wide in places (30m) and even gives the impression of a lake in the middle! The walk is 1.2km long, so there’s plenty to enjoy.

On the way you pass through a beautiful mangrove forest. It’s always a treat to see the roots of these trees reaching down to the river. In some places there are real walls of roots”. Mélanie quickly took the helm of the pedalo as I got bored (as I did in the kayak) and preferred to take photos. At the end of the river we turned back, at least as far as we could go. Here you can see the famous turtles and a few moorhens.

If you’re just passing through, I think this is the best activity to do and a must. Depending on how much you enjoy walking along the river and observing the flora and fauna, allow between 1 and 2 hours.

There are two houses on the island of Marie-Galante, two very different and fun relics to visit during your stay.

Early in the morning we went to the first house, the Roussel-Trianon house, now owned by the Conseil Général de la Guadeloupe. Visible from the road, the remains are set in a huge park. After parking at the roadside, we set off on our tour. The site can be visited on your own, free of charge and without a guide.

The first thing that catches the eye is the vastness of the site and the beautiful reddish building that is located right next to a small pond. These are the remains of an old stable built around 1785. The building is truly remarkable and imposing, and is still in excellent condition.

Behind the stables, you can visit an old garden with a few plants. The tour continues in the direction of the former sugar factory, which is now completely overgrown. You can’t go inside as the area is closed due to danger… but it’s a great place to stroll around and admire the remains. At the back you can see the beautiful chimney of the old sugar factory, which is still in very good condition. The chimney is a listed building. Finally you can enter the mill.

In the end, we spent a good hour in the premises, which are well worth a visit.

This is the other house we visited, and it’s definitely worth a look. Historically, this was the largest sugar cane plantation in Guadeloupe in the 1840s, with over 300 slaves on the site.

The whole site consists of two mills (one animal-powered and one wind powered), the old kitchens, the manor house, the medicinal plant garden, the sugar refinery and the former slave hospital. There’s a great fact sheet here that summarises a lot about the house.

However, the Roussel-Trianon house seems to be much more touristy, as there were considerably more people there when we visited. Having said that, there are many more things to see, especially the eco-museum which is now housed in the former manor house. It’s a great place to learn a lot of interesting things and take a trip back in time, with lots of period items on display.

The former hospital is a simple house of no particular interest, but next door you can see the sugar factory with its large fireplace still intact. The whole complex is inaccessible and overgrown.

If you continue your visit, you can see the remains of the cattle mill (the manège), but above all the windmill (very well preserved). It’s all very photogenic.

We finish the walk with a short visit to the medicinal herb garden and the pond.

It’s no coincidence that the island is called “the island of 100 windmills”, and you can discover several of them if you take the time to get lost in the interior. Mélanie went to see the one marked on the map, the Moulin de Bézard. It’s an old windmill, built around 1840 and listed in 1979. I think she managed to get some great photos. She thinks it’s worth a visit if you’re in the area.

We also passed a mill in a place called Desruisseaux, which was also quite nice. Mélanie took the opportunity to fly her drone.

As for the rest of the island, Mélanie and I have slightly different opinions. I wouldn’t say that walking around the interior of the island isn’t interesting in itself, but the island as a whole is almost flat and the interior offers few (if any) views of the surrounding area, unlike what we saw on the island of Terre-de-Haut, in Les Saintes. There’s a bucolic side to walking these small country roads, and the main interest will be in discovering the natural and agricultural side of Marie-Galante.

You may not know it yet, but we have a page dedicated to hiking in Guadeloupe. We have detailed reports with photos of all the walks we’ve been able to do since we’ve been living here. So don’t hesitate to have a look around for some hiking ideas. One of the most beautiful walks we’ve had the chance to do is to discover the magical Canyon Moustique! For a more traditional walk by the sea, the Sentier de la Grande Pointe in Trois-Rivières is also very nice.

As far as walks in Marie-Galante are concerned, I did some research on what was interesting to do before I left. The official website of the Office du Tourisme de Marie-Galante lists all the official walks on the island. There are 9 in total.

I don’t think they’re all really worth doing, though, given the location. I’ll leave you to look at the details on the site and see what you might be interested in.

For our part, we had the opportunity to walk two trails: the Anse du Coq trail and the Sentier des Galeries trail. We didn’t have time to walk them all (well, they’re long walks, even with children), but I think there are two other trails that are really worth a look: the cliff trail along the east coast of the island and the east coast trail. Finally, the Grand-Bourg coastal trail (to the west) is also worth a look.

I only went there with Pascale, Mélanie’s mum, while she looked after the children who were having a siesta. The trail starts at a place called “les Coqs” in the north-east of the island, a few minutes from Gueule Grand Gouffre. This path leads to the beautiful beach of Anse à Coq.

So we parked the car on the side of the road, although there was a small car park along the way. We walked along a fairly easy path in the shade towards the sea for about 20 minutes. Towards the end we decided to turn right onto what looked like a marked path (it turned out to be the cliff path mentioned above). This takes us right up to the edge of the cliffs, where we get some great views of the surrounding area. The sea is beautiful here.

We retrace our steps to descend to our final destination. The end of the path is a bit tricky. But it’s nothing serious if you’re careful. It’s fine with children/babies. We arrive at a beautiful beach with clear sand, nestled between a pair of cliffs. The sea is still very rough and clearly not the ideal place for a swim (at least when we were there). Nevertheless, the place is superb and the water very beautiful. We walked around for half an hour and enjoyed the beautiful scenery. And what’s more, we were alone!

The rest of the way is pretty straightforward, as we take the same route back up. (The path actually makes a loop, but it crosses the road again, so I don’t see the point.)

This is the second walk we did during our stay on Marie-Galante. The walk takes 45 minutes and is 1.5 km long. It’s not really difficult, but with children it’s quite tricky, if not impossible.

We went at the end of the afternoon, almost at sunset. The trail is just 5 minutes north-east of the town of Capesterre-de-Marie-Galante, on the east coast of the island. As soon as you start walking, it’s easy to see why taking children is not recommended. In fact, you’re walking very quickly over very sharp limestone cliffs, the same ones you’ll find on many islands, as we’ve had the opportunity to do many times in Polynesia, on the atolls.

The light is excellent and it’s a real pleasure to walk along this rocky coast. Judge for yourself.

At the end of the walk, you will come to the edge of a magnificent high cliff.

This isn’t much of a hike in itself, but we got the chance to do this little walk, which is well worth a visit. You can walk down to the edge of the cliff and take in the surroundings, which are once again stunningly beautiful. The site is signposted. It is next to Gueule Grand Gouffre.

I’ve come to the end of our list of things to see and do in Marie Galante. Here, as usual, is the practical side.

Here’s everything you need to know about getting to Marie Galante.

I won’t repeat what I wrote in my article on everything you need to know to go to Guadeloupe. Just remember that the cheapest flights are from Paris (from €400 if you’re flexible), but it’s also possible to find good deals from the provinces. Once you’re there, you’ll need to get to Bergevin station to catch the boat. A taxi will cost you around €20.

Otherwise, if you’re staying in Guadeloupe, you’ll need to consider hiring a car. I advise you to compare prices at Discover cars! Check it out.

For those wondering, the easiest way to get to Marie-Galante is by boat, although it is possible to fly there by private plane from Pointe-à-Pitre airport (with Société Aero Location). A 30-minute flight costs around €330 (for 2 people). It’s obviously a lot more expensive than going by boat, but it’s clearly not the same experience…

If you decide to go to Marie-Galante, you’ll probably be going by boat. There aren’t 40 ways to get there. Two companies offer to take you there from the Bergevin ferry terminal near Pointe-à-Pitre: Val ferry and Express des îles.

The fares are very similar (as is the service, in my opinion). One hour costs about €46 return for an adult. For details of days and times, I suggest you check their website. The information varies.

Note that it’s also possible to travel to Marie-Galante from Saint-François or the island of Terre-de-Haut with the Comatrile company. However, at €71/adult/car, the prices are higher from what I’ve seen.

For those with very little time, you could also consider spending a day on Marie-Galante from Saint-François.

As with all of the islands, you can imagine that there’s a huge range of accommodation available to suit your budget. You’ll find Airbnb rentals, whole house rentals, apartment rentals, hotel rooms and more. We stayed in an Airbnb for the first two nights of our stay and spent the remaining four nights in Villa Sérénité (in the Résidence Villa Zen), which we partnered with. In fact, I invite you to read our detailed review of the place!

In the meantime, here are a few recommendations for accommodation with a very good reputation.

For higher budgets (>€100/night)

• Le M Hotel Marie Galante: an excellent hotel with all the comforts you need!
• Les Coquelinnes: a beautiful 82m2 villa (for 5) with swimming pool, excellent bedding and quiet location.
• Villa piscine Ribourgeon: a large villa for 6 people with swimming pool! Breakfast included!

For medium budgets (between €50 and €100/night)

• Coco Beach Marie-Galante: the reputation of this establishment is well established: a superb pool with sea views, a renowned breakfast and very friendly staff!
• Au village de Ménard: This was next door to where we stayed, in the quiet north of the island. You can choose between studios and villas. For those who like peace and quiet and just a stone’s throw from Gueule Grand Gouffre,
• LES ALOÈS BY CREYOL ANIMAL: quality studios and really good service for the price.

You can also find the best accommodation in Marie-Galante on :

• Grand-Bourg
• Capesterre-de-Marie-Galante
• Saint-Louis

As on some islands such as Terre-de-Haut and La Désirade, there are few questions to ask when it comes to getting around Marie-Galante. If you want to be independent, you’ll definitely need to hire a car. In my opinion, the island is too big to get around on a scooter (even if you can), let alone a bike.

Here’s some practical information for your visit to Marie-Galante.

• Bielle Distillery:
  • Phone: 05 90 97 93 62
  • Open from Monday to Sunday from 9 to 13 (except Sunday from 10 to 12)
• Bellevue Distillery:
  • Phone: 06 90 33 68 32
  • Open : Monday to Sunday from 9 am to 1 pm
• Père Labat Distillery:
  • Phone: 05 90 97 03 79
  • Open from Monday to Sunday from 7am to 1pm

• Murat House:
  • Phone: 0590 97 48 68
  • Opening hours:
    • Monday to Friday: 9am-12.30pm / 2.30pm-5pm
    • Saturday and Sunday: 9am-1pm
    • Closed on public holidays
• Roussel-Trianon House:
  • Phone: 0590 97 48 68
  • Opening Hours:
    • Free access

I found two diving clubs on site (Plongée Marie-Galante and Ti’bulles), which seem to have a good reputation from what I could see.

It’d be shameful to write about Marie-Galante without talking about the places we ate at over the course of the week. We had a great time in a number of restaurants, so here’s a brief review of some of them. Maybe we will offer our services as restaurant testers soon, haha.

Au plaisir des Marins Restaurant – Saint-Louis

In my opinion, this was the least interesting restaurant we ate at. Yes, the setting is superb, on the edge of the lagoon and coconut palms, with your feet in the sand, but clearly, from the moment you walk in and see how many people are there, it feels more like a ‘canteen’ than a restaurant. We were served quickly, but not in a really warm atmosphere, contrary to what we’d heard. It’s the bare minimum. The food was decent, but not much more in my opinion. I’ll be on my way to find a better place to eat.

La Baleine rouge restaurant – Saint-Louis

Situated just outside the village, this roadside restaurant is well worth a visit. The smiling, professional staff made us feel very welcome. The atmosphere is much cosier than at Au plaisir des marins, although the setting is not as beautiful. Nevertheless, there’s a lovely view from the terrace. We ate quite well. However, I think the presentation could be improved. A good address if you’re in the area.

La Table du Père Labat – Between Grand Bourg and Saint-Louis

The restaurant is located in the same place as the distillery. The place is outside, very nice and the welcome is very good. It seems that the owners have changed recently and people say that the quality has deteriorated. In spite of this, we found the food to be really excellent. It’s clearly in a different league to the first two restaurants mentioned above, but the prices are also much more expensive. From a culinary point of view, I would say that this is one of the two best places we’ve eaten so far. There is something to be said for eating outside, in peace and quiet.

O’ Viviers

If I had to recommend just one restaurant in Marie-Galante, it would be this one. The place doesn’t look like much when you arrive, but once you’re inside it’s top notch. The restaurant is really well laid out. You can eat inside or outside, next to a large swimming pool, under shady gazebos. There are deckchairs, footstools, etc., and several places to relax. Frankly, they’ve done everything right and it’s perfect for relaxing with children.

The service and welcome were impeccable, the best we’ve had I think. The food was delicious, hearty and perfectly served and what can I say? Quite frankly, this is the restaurant I’d recommend 100%. It’s the perfect place to grab an instant bite!

Other restaurants were recommended to us during our visit, but we couldn’t eat at them all! We’ll try the others next time!

I’m going to end this article on a personal note. We will all have to make our own decisions and, as I often say, it’s a good thing that we don’t all have the same way of travelling. I’m also aware that we have two children and that Téo is still napping. I’ve already seen and heard of people who come to Marie-Galante for a day… In my opinion, that’s really (very? too) short. It’s a big island. It’s a big island and it takes a good hour to drive around it. If you want to visit the distilleries, the houses, do a few beaches, eat in restaurants, do a few hikes and take your time, I’d say a week is good. So yes, I’m sure if you’re coming from France you won’t take a whole week to stay on Marie-Galante. But we live here, so we’ve got the time. So I’d recommend at least 3 days to get the most out of it.

I’ll stop there with my article on Marie-Galante. The main thing is that it is here, I think, and I hope that this walk in words and pictures has inspired you to go and spend a couple of days on the island. I don’t think it’s my personal favourite, but it’s still a beautiful island, full of charm and well worth a visit!

See you soon for another article. In the meantime, to prepare for your stay in Guadeloupe, I invite you to read our detailed guide to what to do at Pointe des Châteaux, in Grande-Terre.

We hope to see you soon.

Written by Sylvain PONS

Since 2021, I've been living in the Guadeloupe archipelago with Mélanie and our two children. We are exploring these beautiful islands and discovering the treasures that we are happy to share with you!

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