Grand Teton National Park: how to visit it

I might as well say it right away: this was by far my favorite part of our road trip through the United States. It is difficult to explain exactly why, but I found the landscapes absolutely beautiful, and the national park deserves far more attention. Almost everyone has heard of the Grand Canyon or Yellowstone, at least by name, while Grand Teton National Park is much less familiar to many travelers.

During our trip through the United States in the summer of 2018, I had the chance to spend almost a week exploring this park, which I consider a true paradise for nature lovers, hikers, and photographers. We reached it toward the end of a month-long camping trip and took the time to explore it properly.

In this article, you will find my must-see places and all the practical information you need to plan your trip to Grand Teton National Park.

If you are looking for another beautiful destination, take a look at the Seward area of Alaska, which we explored during a recent month-long road trip!

I spent about a week in this beautiful park and, honestly, I could easily have stayed for another week to hike to the more remote lakes and summits. Photography is another major highlight, as the park is incredibly photogenic. I even found entire articles in English devoted to the park’s best photography locations. For those looking for activities to do in Grand Teton National Park (and even around), I recommend you check out this site, which lets you compare prices for a range of activities!

For me, the viewpoints are one of the park’s main highlights, along with the hiking trails. With a two-and-a-half-year-old, however, heading out on long eight-hour mountain hikes was clearly not easy. So, over several days, we focused on visiting the most beautiful viewpoints around the classic loop of the park. Of course, it all depends on where exactly you are staying, but the loop starts north at Jackson Lake Junction and turns south at Moose Junction.

The loop is lined with numerous viewpoints. You can stop whenever you like and enjoy the beauty of the scenery. One useful detail for photographers (more about this below), the sun rises in the east and illuminates the Tetons (in the west) once the sun passes the mountains. For the best light and photographs, it is better to begin with the eastern side of the loop.

I also recommend that you walk along the shore of Jackson Lake to admire superb panoramas of the Tetons.

The route includes a whole series of beautiful stops. To name a few: Snake River Overlook, Schwabacher Overlook, Mount Moran Turnout, and so on. The photos speak for themselves.

Earlier in the road trip, I had taken a boat tour in Glacier National Park, near the Canada–U.S. border, and really enjoyed it. So I wanted to do something similar on this beautiful lake. The surroundings were truly splendid and although it is certainly not cheap (I only did a 2-hour trip), it’s worth it. One piece of advice: leave as early as possible to take advantage of the soft morning light on the Tetons. I left a bit late, so the photos are not at their best, but hey!

Although you’ll probably arrive from Yellowstone National Park (or go there right after), the wildlife experience is just as enjoyable. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the opportunity to see black bears or grizzlies here, but I did see moose, plenty of bison and other animals.

If you are not afraid to get up early, I recommend you get up at 5 a.m., climb into your car or van when it is 0°C (yes in the middle of August -> we are at high altitude here…) and drive on the eastern side of the loop. On the side of the road, you are likely to see a lot of animals in the dark… So drive carefully and keep your eyes open…

If you’re a photographer, you may already have seen photos of this area, particularly the John Moulton Barn, the most photographed barn in the world! This former Mormon settlement includes a collection of historic wooden buildings. Today, the barns attract both visitors and photographers who come to admire the sunrise over these old houses with the beautiful pink tones of the Teton Mountains in the background.

To really admire the beauty of the place, I recommend coming very early, before the arrival of the first tourist buses. Alternatively, come very late in the day. If you like photography and if the weather is on your side, you can easily spend a few hours photographing these beautiful barns and the small squirrels that hang around the site.

Many visitors probably come to the park primarily for the hiking. There are numerous hiking trails in the western part of the national park, the most mountainous part. To be honest, I did not have the opportunity to tackle any truly long hikes, but I did manage several shorter walks. Carrying my 17 kg child on my back with my camera bag didn’t help!

One thing is certain, hikers will have a lot of fun here. There is something for all levels. You can head out for a few hours or spend a morning walking around the nearby lakes. To name just a few: Phelps Lake, Taggart Lake, Jenny Lake, String Lake and Leigh Lake and farther northeast, Two Ocean Lake and Emma Matilda Lake.

I have personally walked around Taggart Lake which is genuinely beautiful—and even that feels like an understatement and along Jenny Lake and String Lake which are equally beautiful. I strongly recommend that anyone who enjoys walking to spend some time in this park and try some of the longer trails leading into the mountains toward the park’s glaciers. A few beautiful hikes are well known, including the famous Death Valley, Cascade Canyon and Paintbrush Canyon.

Just south of Jackson Lake Lodge is a junction to Signal Mountain, a small peak in the park rising to 2,355 m. The road to get there is superb and it is really worth driving slowly to look out for wildlife. Unfortunately, we did not see any on this occasion. From the top, you have a great view of the Snake River below and the surrounding mountains. It is the kind of landscape you could admire for a long time.

For those who like to get away from the usual routes inside the park, there are several places where you are unlikely to encounter many people. Two places in particular are worth considering. The first is the road leading to Shadow Mountain. Located in the southeast of the park, we followed it because we wanted to see a different side of the area and frankly, it was quite nice. For several kilometers, the road follows a beautiful track in the middle of the forest. Eventually, you reach at a summit that offers you a beautiful view of the surroundings. If you can make it up there for the sunset, it’s even better. Note that there are several places where you can camp in the wilderness in the area. Simply apply for permits at the park’s Visitor Center.

Another peaceful place away from the crowds is the beautiful Lower Side Lake, at the end of the “Gros Ventre Road”. The lake is located outside the park itself, to the southeast. The lake itself is not especially remarkable, but the setting is very peaceful, but the peaceful setting is perfect for a simple meal beside a fire. It was a wonderful family moment for us.

You might assume that only photographers would be motivated enough to get up at dawn for sunrise. Honestly, if you are tempted, go for it, you won’t be disappointed. There is a special atmosphere in the early morning on the roads of the park. You can come across herds of antelopes, elk, deer, moose and many other species on the roadside. In short, there is plenty of wildlife. Be very careful and keep your eyes wide open. I personally had one or two frightening moments…

Start with the eastern section of the park loop first. I found this excellent site from a local photographer who lists the best photography locations in the area and gives advice. Some of the best and most famous spots are: Snake River Overlook, Elk Ranch/Flats Turnout, Blacktail Ponds Turnout and many others. I wasn’t exactly lucky with the sunrises, but the atmosphere and the fact that I was with other photographers at 5 a.m. in temperatures around 0°C was very cool (even if I was literally freezing)!

As with many parks in the United States, you are unlikely to travel from Europe or elsewhere solely to visit this park. It is more commonly included in a road trip in the American West alongside other nearby national parks. So that is the most useful place to begin.

While traveling in the United States, if you are in the region, you will probably also visit the famous Yellowstone park, located just north of Grand Teton. Many travelers combine the two parks over the course of a week. There are only a few national parks in the area, and if you’re on a larger tour, chances are you’re coming from the south towards Salt Lake City. From there you have access, including some of the nearest parks, to the Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, Arches, Zion and many others. For your information, from the Grand Canyon to Salt Lake, the distance is about 800 km, or roughly eight hours of nonstop driving. Another 500 km north of the Canyon is the Grand Teton National Park.

For those arriving from Europe, you will probably consider flying into Salt Lake City, San Francisco, or Los Angeles. You can search for affordable flights using this flight comparison tool that I have been using for more than 10 years now. For Canadian readers, one convenient option is to fly from Canada to Salt Lake. The cheapest prices range from $300 to $350.

There is also a good chance that you will be on a road trip in the USA during your visit. For your information, I found great prices on this car rental comparison site. For those who are looking for a van or a camper, I recommend this comparison site that includes many of the major rental companies.

Since the park is still much less visited by tourists than the famous Yellowstone National Park, crowds are generally less of a concern, although some areas still become busy in the summer.

As for the weather, this was the coldest park we experienced during our month in the USA. Whether that was simply bad luck or not, the park is located at a high elevation (above 2,000 m), and it can really get very cold, especially in the evenings, mornings and at night. We had three or four nights at 0°C, in the middle of August. There is usually no snow in July or August, which gives you an idea of how cold it felt.

Unlike Yellowstone, the park is open year-round and you can drive from Jackson (small town in the south) to Flagg Ranch (north of the park) without much hassle. If you like to travel slightly outside the main season, both to avoid crowds and for a different experience, I would even advise traveling in May or June, or in September or October. Be aware that you will still have below-freezing temperatures and probably snow…

Another important point, while speaking with rangers in the park, I was told that July and August were too hot and that the bears were therefore less visible because they stayed in the mountains, at a high elevation. Apparently, bears are much easier to see in spring and fall. That is worth keeping in mind.

From what I’ve seen and heard, many tourists spend only one day in the park, which I think is a real shame. The park has so much to offer. Although it is much smaller than Yellowstone, it still deserves several days if you like hiking and photography.

It will most likely depend on how much vacation time you have and the way you like to travel. We were at the end of our trip, already exhausted by more than three weeks of camping. So we took our time and I don’t regret having stayed almost a week in the park enjoying the landscapes, lakes, short walks, boat trips and photography sessions.

If you can, I would recommend spending three or four days there. I think it’s a good compromise.

The entrance to Grand Teton Park is, of course, $35 per vehicle in 2018, valid for seven days. Yellowstone Park has another entrance fee (at the same price).

If you plan to visit both parks and others (to make the pass worthwhile), I often recommend getting the “America the Beautiful” card. This card gives access, for $80 per car, to all the national parks in the country. Let’s say that it generally pays for itself after about four parks. I’ll let you do the math.

As with Yellowstone National Park, I recommend getting up early to enjoy the sites and the different viewpoints with fewer people but also for the beautiful light (for photographers). If you enjoy hiking, set aside enough time to explore the park over several days (with your bear spray, you never know). Tell me about it in the comments, okay?

A few travel accessories that I use and particularly recommend:

• My universal adapter,
• My camping stove and my three-person cooking pot,
• My Petzl headlamp.

To stay in the park, you basically have two simple options: staying in lodges or camping (paid or wilderness).

Lodges are obviously not the cheapest option, but they are the easiest. There are quite a few of them, some at decent prices, others more upscale. Among the best-rated options and those that received excellent feedback, these are particularly appealing:

Since then, we’ve put together our complete guide to accommodation in Grand Teton National Park, which should help you find the right option!

For travelers who want to be closer to nature and enjoy camping, there is a wide range of campgrounds in the park. Some can be booked, others not (first come, first served). You have all the details on this page.

As for my own camping experience in the park, we were at Colter Bay Village. We arrived in the morning from Yellowstone and some sites were still available. A few hours later, everything was already full. It is therefore best to arrive early in the morning or make a reservation, otherwise, you may end up spending the night in one of the lodges of the park.

Depending on the season in which you come, make sure you come properly equipped for cold weather.

For food, there are a few options at the gas stations and small stores in the park, but the products are generally much more expensive than outside. If you’re coming from the South, from Salt Lake City, you might as well stock up on food for the week beforehand!

That brings me to the end of this article on Grand Teton National Park. I hope it has made you want to visit. Personally, I really enjoyed it and would definitely go back, especially for photography and hiking. For those who are preparing for the trip, here is everything you need to plan your road trip in the USA. If you love the region, a visit to the Grand Canyon is also a must!

Written by Sylvain PONS

Twice, over a period of about 2 months, I had the opportunity to explore several corners of the United States, taking advantage of the best it has to offer. I decided to share some of my experiences with you!

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Have a wonderful trip and enjoy every moment.