Our second trip to Mangareva island

It has now been two months since we came back from the Gambier Archipelago. I needed a little time to step back from this wonderful trip, during which we had the chance to take my parents there on their second visit to French Polynesia. I have to admit that 2020 was a complicated year for everyone, and it felt so good to see our family again, especially in what Mélanie and I still consider one of the most beautiful corners of French Polynesia.

We had already visited Mangareva, the main inhabited island of the Gambier Archipelago, back in 2016, when Louis was not walking yet. We had been won over by the beauty, calm and authenticity of the place, especially compared with many other Polynesian islands. So this time, we happily decided to book a full week, from Tuesday to Tuesday. Flight schedules to the Gambier remain limited, so in practice you usually plan your stay around the Air Tahiti flights.

In the link at the beginning of this article, you will find our first post about the Gambier Islands. I have to admit that I wrote it when the blog was still young, and after reading it again, I am no longer completely satisfied with it. Writing a “top 10 things to do in the Gambier” now feels a bit silly to me. We are not in Ibiza or Bali! So I decided to write again about this beautiful destination, but this time in a more personal way.

This trip was also special for Mélanie because, in 2016, she lost her grandfather while we were in the Gambier. It was obviously a difficult trip, made even more complicated by the situation and by the fact that returning straight away, even to Tahiti, was almost impossible. This is also one of the things you need to know when living in French Polynesia. Yes, life is generally very pleasant, but it is not always easy, especially when you are far from your family.

This second trip was therefore an opportunity for Mélanie to experience the destination in a more peaceful way, and for me to rediscover this magnificent archipelago. Louis did not remember it, but it was also a chance for him to see Marie and Michel from Pension Maroi’i again, as they had cuddled him so much during our first visit. For Téo, it was not his first time on a plane, but at only 6 months old, it was another chance to discover a completely different world.

Let’s go back to this archipelago, which means a lot to me, this time as a week-long travel diary.

For anyone wondering how to get to Mangareva, you can only reach the island after a long Air Tahiti flight from Tahiti. As a practical update, Air Tahiti currently lists the Tahiti–Mangareva flight at around 3h40, with return fares from about 107,448 XPF including taxes, but prices and schedules can change, so always check before booking. During our first stay, we had a stopover on the small atoll of Tureia, a tiny coral atoll lost in the Pacific. We were not so lucky this time, if I can put it that way, and we had a direct flight from Tahiti. The sky was a little overcast when we arrived, but we could already enjoy the beautiful colors of the lagoon from the window, along with our first views of Mangareva and the famous islets scattered across its lagoon.

The airport had not changed much since our first visit, and time still seemed to stand still here. Luggage still arrived, as on many islands, by truck, and was dropped off by hand in the terminal. Everyone came to collect their bags; there was no carousel here either. We waited a little while in the local shuttle boat while everyone boarded, then finally reached the pier in Rikitea, the main village of the island, after about 40 to 45 minutes on the water. I should mention that the airport is located on Motu Totegegie, a large white-sand motu on the outer reef of the Gambier. As always in these remote islands, plane arrivals shape local life: people come to pick up family, friends or parcels from Tahiti. Michel and Marie were there to welcome us with flower leis, just as they had four years earlier. What a pleasure to see them again on this tiny piece of rock! Their good mood and smiles had not changed. We were going to have a wonderful week here, that was for sure.

I remember Mangareva almost as if it were yesterday. As you leave the pier, you pass through the small village of Rikitea, which has a wonderful old-world charm: a quiet, isolated village where around 1,600 people live year-round. I felt as if nothing had changed, and I was probably not far from the truth. We drove along the main road across the island to reach the other side of Rikitea, directly to Pension Maroi’i. I already talked about it in our first article, but I can only recommend this place, which for me represents everything you could hope for in a French Polynesian guesthouse: peace and quiet, smiles, owners who genuinely care about your stay, Marie’s excellent cooking, spacious and well-maintained bungalows, a small garden where children can play, a pontoon on the lagoon, a private white-sand beach with coconut palms… I could go on, but you get the idea. The only problem with recommending this guesthouse is that Marie might scold me if too many of you come because of this article, haha.

We were welcomed at the guesthouse with a delicious tropical juice, lemon and passion fruit, which immediately set the tone. My parents were over the moon, and it was clear they were going to enjoy their stay here. Since our visit four years earlier, the guesthouse had even been improved, and you could clearly see the effort that had been made. I have to say, that is not always the case in French Polynesian guesthouses, where many places tend to rest on their laurels and do little unless something is falling apart. To cool off, we took the kayaks kindly provided by the guesthouse and went out onto the lagoon right in front of us. It felt so good to arrive here, in the middle of nowhere, simply contemplating the landscape and the two main peaks of Mangareva in the background. I stopped offshore with my kayak, looked at the scenery, and then… happiness. I heard nothing. Not a sound. There was nothing to do but contemplate and live in the present moment. Carpe diem.

We then fully enjoyed Marie’s excellent dinner, which included korori. My parents did not know what it was: it is the muscle of the pearl oyster. I doubt you can find it easily in France, and it is not always easy to find even in Tahiti, although you can sometimes buy it at the market in the morning or occasionally at Carrefour. But here, in the land of pearl farms, it is a common ingredient. After all, a large part of Tahiti’s pearls come from the Gambier. The sun sets early in the islands, around 6:30 p.m. We ate well, as we did every evening during our stay, and went to bed already dreaming about the next day.

If the weather was good, Michel had planned to take us out on Mangareva’s lagoon, especially to discover the islets scattered around it. If you look at the Gambier Islands on a map, you will see Mangareva in the center, but also many rocky islets inside the lagoon and sandy motu on the outer reef. We are in a kind of pre-atoll stage here: the main volcanic island is still there, but it is slowly sinking into the ocean, while coral islets have formed along the reef barrier. There are also several fairly large rocky and mountainous islands in the lagoon. These islands are beautiful reminders of the period of evangelization in this part of the Pacific. In 1834, Honoré Laval and François Caret began building religious structures across the islands, including churches, schools, watchtowers and other buildings.

So it was with real pleasure that we set off for this day of discovery and history on Mangareva’s lagoon. We had already done this trip four years earlier, but the idea of rediscovering it and climbing the famous islet of Mekiro filled us with joy. The view from this islet is, in my eyes, simply magical and breathtaking. Well, let’s go! We left at 9 a.m. in beautiful weather. The guesthouse sits at the end of a natural channel, which we followed toward the open lagoon. We passed several pearl farms, like small “houses on the water,” as Louis would say, except that he was thinking of the luxury hotels we had tested, haha. Looking back toward the mountains, the view of the two peaks, Mount Duff and Mokoto, rising above the guesthouse was already sublime.

We continued across the beautiful turquoise lagoon in the soft morning light. The first stop of the day was Aukena. I had almost forgotten how incredible the color of the water was when we arrived there four years earlier. A true natural aquarium spread out in front of us. We landed on a small white-sand beach at the end of the world, where a family had come to camp for a few days. Honestly, they were in the perfect place, surrounded by calm.

We entered the island’s natural forest to discover the remains of what is often presented as the first school in French Polynesia. Even though only a few walls remain, the atmosphere is wonderful, with these old stones from another era intertwined with lush tropical vegetation. Continuing along the path, we discovered an old lime kiln, which is still in remarkably good condition. We also saw the remains of a bread oven and an oil press. Time seemed to have stopped here too, in the middle of the forest.

The path then continued toward the old watchtower. Along the way, we came across several beautiful white-sand beaches. When we reached the top, at the foot of the small tower, we were genuinely stunned. The view over the lagoon, Mangareva and the other islands of the archipelago is breathtaking. We stayed for a while to contemplate and enjoy the moment. Apparently there is also a church on the other side of the islet, but we did not go there this time.

We left Aukena and continued toward Akamaru, at the foot of the famous and sublime islet of Mekiro. There we discovered the beautiful Notre-Dame-de-Paix church, set in the middle of a well-maintained garden. The white-and-turquoise building blends perfectly into its surroundings. We spent a little time with our group visiting the small church, the presbytery and the old school. The atmosphere was still wonderful, with deserted beaches along the edge of the islet.

But the highlight of the day came shortly afterwards. We left Akamaru to cross the turquoise water toward Mekiro, a small rocky islet that, to this day, remains one of the most beautiful things I have seen in French Polynesia. I remember this walk as if we had done it yesterday. We were dropped off on the sandy tip of the islet, then began the short walk along the rocky shoreline before climbing to the top.

The ten-minute walk along the water already sets the scene beautifully. The short ascent is not difficult in itself: it is quick, about 10 minutes, but rather steep and slippery. When you reach the lower part of the ridge, the view is already magnificent. You then continue along the ridge to the summit for a 360-degree view from the top of the islet. The colors are unreal, the lagoon is magical, and the weather was perfect once again. I think the photos speak better than my words, so judge for yourself.

I took the opportunity to fly my drone and capture a few aerial shots that show the full scale and beauty of the place. Once again, for the pleasure of your eyes.

I reluctantly left this magical islet and walked back down with Louis, who was thrilled to have seen “my little plane” fly. We then took the boat again and headed to Taravai, another jewel of the Mangareva lagoon, for lunch. I did not know the part of the island where we were dropped off. When we arrived, the meal had already been set up in the shade of a small tropical garden. The setting was sublime and as authentic as you could hope for, exactly the kind of moment I love. We happily tasted the meal that had been prepared for us. On the menu: fish in several forms, of course, grilled pork, chicken, local bread and more. A real feast was waiting for us, and everyone enjoyed it.

After this excellent meal, we continued on to discover the beautiful Saint-Gabriel church, completed in 1868 by the Catholic mission led by Honoré Laval. The church is lovely, and the good weather made the place even more magical. It is surrounded by a large, well-kept fa’a’apu, or garden, with grapefruit trees, breadfruit trees, lemon trees, orange trees and more. A little taste of paradise. We then went a little farther to meet Valérie and her husband, who live here almost completely self-sufficiently on this island at the end of the world. It was a beautiful encounter and a lovely exchange. Valérie creates delicate paintings using only sand from the island. I have to admit that this spoke to me, because in the past I collected sand samples from all over the world. I stopped eventually, but for the curious, I used to exchange sand with people worldwide and collected more than 6,000 samples. No, I swear I’m not crazy, just truly passionate when I get into something. Valérie’s work is delicate and precise, and she can create portraits from photos, landscapes and drawings using sand. She often adds Marquesan symbols for extra meaning. If you want a meaningful souvenir of your time in the Gambier, I really recommend it, either for yourself or as a gift. You can contact her by phone at +689 87710962 or by email: valerie.gna2012@gmail.com

We quietly returned to the boat to continue our afternoon, heading to another golden beach on the other side of Taravai. When we came here more than four years earlier, we had not had the chance to discover this small beach at the end of the world. We found a beautiful bay, translucent water and vegetation typical of the area. Some of us went for a swim, while I decided to gain a little height with my drone. Judge for yourself how magical this setting is!

After this final moment of relaxation, we returned happily to the guesthouse, where, as every evening, a very good meal prepared by Marie was waiting for us. We felt good here, and I can confirm it: the Gambier Islands are truly magical.

The weather was not consistently good that day, so we began with a short 4×4 tour of the island. I had not even done it during our previous stay. Even when the sky is overcast, you still get access to beautiful viewpoints over the lagoon and its stunning colors. We stopped at the Mataiutea viewpoint; you need to be careful not to miss the sign on the side of the road, as it is half-covered by vegetation. A short walk through the pine undergrowth gives you a glimpse of the lagoon’s beautiful colors, even if the weather was not ideal for photos. The island tour is still very pleasant and lets you discover some of Mangareva’s hidden corners. We even stopped near the guesthouse on the way back, at a small church lost among mango and lychee trees, which we fully enjoyed tasting along the way!

We then went for a short walk around “town,” so to speak, because Rikitea feels more like a very small, peaceful village than a real town. I could not really explain it, but a kind of serenity comes from its streets, a beautiful atmosphere from another time. Life goes on here at a slower pace, far from Tahiti’s traffic jams, horns and noise. We took the opportunity to browse the few shops selling pearls here and there. Personally, I was in heaven. The only thing missing back then was a good internet connection to keep posting on the blog, and I might have settled there.

In the afternoon, I was offered the chance to go fishing with some local guys. I have to admit I am not a huge fishing fan, but it was also an opportunity to see something different and, above all, to go out to sea. I took my camera bag with me, of course. Every time we leave Pension Maroi’i by boat, we admire the two mountains in the background, and I always find them beautiful. I took the opportunity to shoot a few photos of this little fishing session. We spent a few hours offshore, behind the reef, trying to catch something. Despite our efforts, the fish were not biting and it was not exactly a great fishing day. We did eventually catch two fish though! It was a nice discovery, while Mélanie, the children and my parents stayed at the guesthouse to rest.

At the end of the afternoon, we made the most of the grandparents’ presence and went for a little romantic kayak outing, just Mélanie and me. As usual, we argued a little in the kayak; we know each other so well now, haha. We had already been together for 18 years at the time. We decided to paddle to a small rocky islet about 20 minutes from the guesthouse. We crossed translucent water to get there, and honestly, we never get tired of that. Once there, we put on fins, masks and snorkels and happily explored the underwater world. The snorkeling was really enjoyable, with many healthy corals, much better than what we could see around Tahiti. We even came across a small shark that popped its head up.

Four years earlier, when we first came here, Mélanie, Louis and I climbed to the top of Mount Duff with Louis in the baby carrier. It was not exactly easy with a little one on your back, but it was still doable. This time, I decided to leave early in the morning with my parents and climb the other summit we could see: Mount Mokoto. Mélanie stayed at the guesthouse with the two little ones, enjoying a bit of peace and quiet.

Marie dropped us off at the start of the trail, located in a hairpin bend on the cross-island road leading to Rikitea. If you are on foot or by bike, you will see the signs along the road; it is fairly well marked. We set off enthusiastically along the trail, which first winds through dense undergrowth and then through pine trees, so characteristic of the island. For those who want to know, the beginning of the hike is the same as the Mount Duff trail. After about 20 minutes, we reached the junction where a sign points toward Mount Mokoto on the right.

Things became more serious from there, because the trail climbs steeply through pine undergrowth, with needles covering the ground. If we had taken a photo at that moment, you would never have guessed we were in French Polynesia. Then we finally reached the ridge and a first viewpoint that was already impressive. The weather was beautiful, with clouds perfectly placed for photos, a blue sky and the turquoise lagoon right in front of us. One end of Mangareva was already visible from this small viewpoint, but it was not the end.

We continued our climb along the ridge. After about 20 more minutes of walking, with more superb viewpoints along the way, each one more beautiful than the last, we reached the summit of Mount Mokoto after about 1 hour 30 minutes of walking, from memory. And there, I have to say, it was serious. What a view. From the top, you can admire the magnificent shades of blue in the lagoon, the pearl farms scattered across the sea, and all the rocky islets where we had stopped during our boat trip. You can also see the guesthouse where we spent the week and even recognize its pontoon stretching into the lagoon. In short, it is a magical view. We spent half an hour fully enjoying the panorama, still in beautiful weather.

Back at the guesthouse, I used some free time to finalize my article about my Kase filter test, my first photography review! I had a little time, so I took Louis with me to walk around the property and do a few photo tests. It was also an opportunity to try my new lens, bought second-hand in Tahiti a few weeks earlier: the Canon 85mm f/1.8, a little gem at a very affordable price. Perfect, especially for portraits.

Before leaving Mangareva, I had asked Michel whether it would be possible to take a second boat trip and see other places. It did not fall on deaf ears, and Michel planned a “motu trip” the day before our departure. In theory, it was going to be a little less spectacular than the outing to the rocky islets of Mangareva’s lagoon, but we were also there to relax, rest and enjoy time with my parents and the little ones. In short, we were not about to complain, especially at a time when we were lucky enough to be able to travel around French Polynesia despite Covid-19.

We left the guesthouse by boat around 9 a.m., after a good breakfast. Once again, we enjoyed the landscapes and the coast of Mangareva, which we followed in beautiful morning light. Michel told me we were going to a motu owned by his family and that there might be a surprise if they were there. I could see where this was going, but I said nothing. We finally reached the famous motu. As always, our arrival was sublime: good weather, clouds in the sky for beautiful photos, and translucent turquoise water. We expected it, but it was still breathtaking. As soon as we landed on this small stretch of sand, we were immediately amazed by the beauty of the place. We moored beside a small hoa, one of those shallow openings that allow water to move between the lagoon and the ocean.

Once ashore, we met the people who had come to spend some time there on vacation. As very often in these remote islands, we received an incredibly warm welcome: smiles, kindness, a cold beer. We knew we were going to have a great day. Part of the family had come to spend time here in the simplest possible way. There was a small hut, a table, a few chairs, a barbecue and, of course, all of it right on the edge of a magnificent lagoon.

So, what do you do all day on a motu like this? Well, you relax, chat with people, explore both sides of the motu, lagoon and ocean, play in the sand, and go snorkeling to look at the corals. In short, there is more than enough to keep you busy, trust me! It is difficult to capture the feeling of the moment in just a few lines. We simply felt incredibly good here. And honestly, after hearing my parents talk about the situation in France during the Covid-19 crisis, we became even more aware of how lucky we were to be here, on a sandbank at the end of the world. Mélanie and I took the opportunity to let the grandparents look after the children and went for a walk to the end of the motu. The surroundings were sublime, and even that word is not enough. The water was incredible; it felt like we were in the Tuamotu. Judge for yourself.

As we had almost expected, our hosts for the day very kindly invited us to eat with them under a tent at the edge of the turquoise lagoon. The place was unreal, and the meal was generous and very good, with pasta, rice, fish, smoked turkey and more. Another wonderful moment in the Gambier. Louis spent the day playing with a friend his age, and everyone was happy. A small and funny anecdote: even though the motu is not huge, it is still possible to lose sight of children. At one point I went to look for them, and they were by the hoa where we had landed, playing with sticks, with a blacktip shark only a few meters away! And what about Téo’s nap, improvised on a makeshift mattress in the shade of an aito tree, right beside the lagoon? He will not remember it, but it is probably one of the most beautiful places where he will ever have slept in his life. We ended the afternoon with a little snorkeling in front of the motu. Honestly, it was really not bad at all, and the corals we saw were in very good condition. Always a treat for the eyes. I really recommend snorkeling there; you can discover the marine life and coral reefs, and it is one of those moments when you feel completely cut off from the rest of the world.

I even tried to fly my drone, but unfortunately we were too close to the airport and I could not get it to take off. We left at the end of the afternoon, thanking everyone for this lovely day trip. A stop not far from another motu on the way back to the guesthouse allowed me to take off the drone and admire the beauty of the place from above.

Unfortunately, all good things come to an end, and our time here was already over. On our last day, we left at the end of the morning to visit Marie and Michel’s pearl farm, located not far from the guesthouse. It was also the perfect opportunity for them to drop us directly at the airport by boat for our early afternoon flight.

We spent about an hour touring the farm and learning more about pearls. The surroundings, under a beautiful sun, were sublime, and everyone enjoyed it. I took the opportunity to fly my drone again to see the place from above. We could see the beautiful rocky motu near where Mélanie and I had snorkeled, as well as the gorgeous corals all around the farm. We then sped off toward the airport for our flight back to Tahiti.

As always, I left the Gambier Islands with a heavy heart and the desire to stay longer. It is true that, on a second visit, we had already seen and done a lot. And yet, we were still amazed by the beauty of the place. Life here feels so gentle, and I feel so good there, that it makes me want to stay, take my time and get to know the people who live here, the same people who welcomed us almost like family. As I often say, with a good internet connection and a job, haha, this is exactly the kind of Polynesian island where I could imagine living all year round.

But that is not on the agenda, and that’s how it is. In any case, I hope this second trip to the Gambier Islands has made you want to go there and given you ideas for things to do in Mangareva during your vacation. I truly recommend going there if you want to experience what I would call “real Polynesia.”

See you soon, and if you are looking for another beautiful, idyllic destination off the beaten path, come and visit Kauehi atoll.

Sylvain

Written by Sylvain PONS

From 2015 to 2021, French Polynesia was our home, with Mélanie and our children. I'm happy to share my experience and advice to help you organize an unforgettable stay in French Polynesia, based on my in-depth knowledge of the territory.

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