Sail trip to Les Saintes

At the time of writing, Melanie and I are in the middle of a project that has been very close to our hearts for the past couple of months. We’ll be really proud when we’re done. In the meantime, we took advantage of this long weekend to go sailing in the Saintes archipelago. We set off from the island of Terre-de-Haut.

Truth be told, Mélanie and I don’t have much sailing experience. You have to admit that the wind in Polynesia is pretty rare, but you can still sail here. On the other hand, since we’ve been living in the West Indies, it’s something that appeals to us. So the opportunity arose.

If you’ve been following us on the blog for a while now, you’ll know that we recommend a website where you can book outdoor activities online: Manawa. It’s a website we know very well and we’ve had many opportunities to try out different activities in partnership with them. We have recently had the opportunity to go microlighting from Saint-François. We have also gone kayaking in the mangroves of Morne-à-l’Eau and scuba diving on the island of Désirade.

Although this is a partnership with Manawa and the Voile Ô Saintes club, as always, we retain full control over what we write and what we say. We just want to reflect the reality of what we experienced while sailing in Les Saintes. Without further ado, let us tell you how we enjoyed sailing in the Saintes Archipelago.

Before packing your bags, don’t forget to consult our complete guide to Les Saintes.

If I told you that the world is small, you might find it hard to believe. On this trip we met Arnaud. He is a qualified sailor, passionate about the sea and sailing, and has lived on Terre-de-Haut with his partner for a number of years. The funny thing about this story is that Arnaud has lived in Polynesia for a long time and even founded one of the very first sailing clubs on the island of Moorea. To tell you the truth, we have been in Polynesia at the same time, even if our paths have never crossed. It’s a small world.

Today, in his 8-meter catamaran called Saga, Arnaud invites you to discover the Saintes archipelago. You have several options. Depending on your wishes. You can sail around the Saintes archipelago for a few hours, half a day or a whole day. One of the options we have tried is to spend two hours learning to sail. This is aimed at teaching you how to sail and maneuver a catamaran.

This is just one of the fun things we’ve been able to do here. If you’re looking for more ideas, have a look at the other things to do in Guadeloupe during your holiday!

In the form of a small travelogue, let’s dive straight into our trip. I hope you’ll enjoy it and that it will ignite your desire to come and explore the Archipelago. We live just opposite of Les Saintes, in the commune of Vieux-Fort. We embarked early in the morning towards the port of Trois-Rivières, where we would board the boat to Terre-de-Haut. As usual, we opted for Val Ferry, a company we have always trusted. We have never encountered any issues with their services. Despite the customary light haze of sand at this time of year, the weather remains fairly mild.

With little difficulty, we crossed the renowned Canal des Saintes. The sea was slightly rough, but nothing more than that. As a precaution, Melanie took a “sea pill.” Upon arrival, we made our way to the restaurant Le Génois, situated at the far end of the pontoon on the left. Someone was already in the waiting area, confirming we were at the right place. It was Arnaud. The water there was amazing, exceptionally clear. As mentioned before, we acquainted ourselves with him. We hit it off right from the start, realizing we had a lot in common. We had both resided in French Polynesia for many years.

Arnaud gives us a detailed briefing on safety issues, in particular with regard to the children on board the boat, who are required to keep their life jackets on for the entire crossing. This is obvious. Louis is thrilled to be able to sail and steer this catamaran. Arnaud is really at ease with the children, reassuring, and there is no doubt that he has a passion for what he does. This is clearly a game changer. During the two hour trip, Arnaud also gives us some explanations.

To get away from the boats, we leave the harbour with the motor running. The wind has been blowing for a few days now. It’s perfect for our introduction to sailing in the archipelago. Arnaud explains how to set the mainsail once the engine is switched off. Louis gives us all his strength to hoist it. Of course, I help him to get the last few metres done. Louis has always been attracted to the sea since he was born. And to be honest, he still is, 7 years later. Arnaud takes Louis under his wing. He explains how to steer and how the catamaran works. He quickly got the hang of it, he was really happy, it was a pleasure.

With a favorable wind propelling us towards Terre-de-Bas, we quietly sail out of the harbor. Speaking of which, we appreciate this island for its tranquility and authenticity. To read our opinion on the four days we spent there, please click on the link above. Following the wind, we sail alongside the renowned “Pain de Sucre” beach, which is right next to an imposing rock. If you sail along, you can observe the basalt organs that form when lava cools. The “Pain de Sucre” rises 52 meters above sea level. Since May 2, 1930, the site has been a protected natural area.

Everyone enjoys this beautiful sailing trip, feeling the wind blow through their hair. Experiencing the sensation of sailing on the water without the noise of the engine is extraordinary. I had previously encountered this feeling during my 10-day cruise in the Tuamotu (Polynesia), although we didn’t sail the entire time. It’s worth mentioning that the wind is much less frequent in Polynesia compared to Guadeloupe. However, it does remind me of the moments I spent on the catamaran in the atolls, and the sensations are still present.

Halfway across, I almost lost my cap, which flew into the sea. Thanks to Arnaud’s skillful maneuvers, we managed to retrieve it! We then proceeded with our crossing towards Terre-de-Bas, steadily getting closer. In the shade of the mainsail, Mélanie and Théo remained calm. Despite being less drawn to the sea and more reserved than his brother, Teo was also delighted.

We finally reach the edge of Terre-de-Bas island after about three-quarters of an hour. We leave the main bay (Anse des Muriers) to the right. This is where the few lost souls who come to visit and leave their bags come ashore. Immediately after Pointe à Negres, we enter the large bay known as Baie des Tortues. This name refers to the thirty or so turtles that can often be seen in the bay. Unfortunately, there is a lot of sargassum in the bay, as there is along the entire east coast of Guadeloupe at the moment. According to Arnaud, the bay is also a lot more turbulent than usual. In spite of this, there are only a few boats around and it’s very quiet here. We are a very long way from the ultra touristy areas of Moorea, for example.

Mélanie and Louis have a dip in the water in search of turtles. I stayed on the catamaran with Téo. I talked to Arnaud and shared our experiences. We shared the same vision of Polynesia, an “authentic Polynesia” that was increasingly disappearing. He tells me that between his arrival in Moorea in 2008 and his departure in 2018, things have really changed a lot (for the worse). Tourism has taken over a lot of things, so much so that in 2018 there are more and more service providers offering various excursions… Here are 3 of them! Anyway. Arnaud also explains the historic Fidelin pottery corner, located in this bay. More than a hundred slaves worked there between 1810 and 1840.

In short, in this magnificent bay, sheltered from the wind, we spend a pleasant half hour. Melanie has the opportunity to see a small turtle that is feeding in the grass beds. Louis also took the opportunity to have a swim. Although he was not particularly enchanted by the sargassum. I understand him. We even get a little refreshment break: coconut love torments (an excellent local cake), guava juice for the kids and a planter for us. It’s perfect.

We set off quietly towards Terre-de-Haut, tacking. Louis is still steering and seems happy! We ended up spending about 2 hours and 30 minutes at sea. Truthfully, everyone had a lot of fun on this trip. It was a nice change of pace from the classic trip through the lagoon with a noisy engine. Arnaud is at the top of his game throughout the trip. We can honestly recommend it. Also, like a private mini cruise, it was just the four of us. It was great.

Back on the pontoon, we took our time and went out for an excellent meal at the Ti Kaz’La restaurant. It had been Arnaud’s recommendation and we were very pleasantly surprised. Although the prices seemed a little high, we personally loved it. However, I would say it was a semi-gastronomic experience, considering the effort put into the presentation and the quality of the food.

We ended the day with a peaceful swim in the bay with the children. We had a great day! Thank you Arnaud.

You can also stay on their other catamaran (Cypraea) with Arnaud and Valentine (and their daughter Zoé). It’s an experience I’ve had several times. If you’re tempted, you’ll be welcomed as if you were at home! Try the experience with them!

After discovering the wonders of Les Saintes under sail, why not continue your nautical adventure in Guadeloupe? Discover îlet du Gosier, another of Guadeloupe’s pearls, where nature and watersports come together for a truly cool experience! The îlet du Gosier is a must during your stay, whether you’re snorkelling, kayaking or simply enjoying a relaxing day on its fine sandy beaches.

I’ll keep this short, but I wanted to give you some information.

I haven’t gone into all the details I have written on this subject in the articles on the Terre-de-Haut and the Terre-de-Bas. From Basse-Terre, Pointe-à-Pitre or Trois-Rivières there are several companies that offer crossings. They are almost all the same. For a return trip for an adult, expect to pay between 35 and 40 euros. Remember to check the website, sometimes they may offer special. For four people with two children, it cost us €85.

If you’re coming from Guadeloupe for the day and want to go sailing, you don’t need to hire a car. The catamaran is just at the end of the quay where you disembark. On the other hand, I would recommend hiring a small car from one of the island’s car hire companies if you are planning to stay for several days to visit the island of Terre-de-Haut, which we certainly recommend. During our long weekend there, we rented from Aquablue. They have an excellent reputation and we can recommend them 100%. This will cost between €60 and €80 per day to hire.

There’s plenty of choice when it comes to accommodation in Terre-de-Haut. Here are some of the places we recommend:

• Ti’ Paradis: nice little apartment on Marigot beach!
• Hôtel Bois Joli: this is where we stayed, a very nice place with a swimming pool, ideal for children. A bit isolated though. You should bring a car.
• Gîtes dans un jardin: a very nice cottage situated on the top of a hill, in the main village.
• Escale Créole: located near the beach of Crawen, this establishment has an excellent reputation.
• Residence Hôteliere Hurlevent: a magnificent quality hotel residence!

In Terre-de-Haut, we were able to take part in a range of water sports with Loisirs aux Saintes – a real treat!

I’ll stop here for this article on sailing in the Saintes. I hope that this little story and the pictures will make you want to come and discover the place in this way!

See you soon, and if you like the Guadeloupe islands, I invite you to read our article on the beautiful island of Désirade.

See you soon.

Written by Sylvain PONS

Since 2021, I've been living in the Guadeloupe archipelago with Mélanie and our two children. We are exploring these beautiful islands and discovering the treasures that we are happy to share with you!

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